First Time Porsche Owner - Service Quote Questions
#1
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Hi All,
Just picked up my first Porsche, a 2002 Boxster S, with a touch over 75,000 kms (about 46,600 miles) on it. Has service records back to 2008 and is in great-looking and driving condition. I purchased from the owner's family this past labour day weekend and from what I can tell with the records and what they told me it has been driven about 1,300 kms (or 800 miles) since the spring of 2017. I've got the first few things done including draining old gas and refilling (with a shot of Seafoam in the tank), new tires, and an inspection at a local and respected Porsche Indy shop. Since there's not much time left before I put the car into storage (I usually regret it if it's not in storage by Canadian Thanksgiving, October 10th this year) I'm planning on driving her around and then doing oil right before storage and then brake fluid right when it come out of hibernation. Oil looks relatively clear when checking dipstick and cap regularly for any foaming after drives.
My main questions comes down to the finding of camshaft deviation at the indy shop. They informed me that cam deviation was at 7, but no details on which bank or both. I've got a Durametric incoming, it may be here today or tomorrow, so I can look at and watch values myself on a cool and hot engine. The shop has quoted me the work to effectively replace what I interpret as the suspected and common culprit being the Tensioner Guides on both banks. Along with that quote, and while the engine is out of the car, the shop recommended the IMS upgrade, clutch, flywheel, RMS, PCV Valve, Spark plugs and water pump. I get that doing a bunch of stuff while the engine is out could save me money in the long run, but the scope of the work as you can imagine is not cheap. I also understand that's the price of entry for owning a car that even though it didn't cost me a significant amount, was a fairly expensive car when it was new and so I can't expect the maintenance and service to be anywhere near our Toyotas. If I move forward with a shop doing teh Tensioner Guides, is there anything else that makes sense to add or take away from this work? I looked at doing it on my own but I'd likely do the tensioners with the engine in place and it looks like a job I'd regret without long-term access to a lift. In addition to that I'm not overly comfortable impacting the timing of the engine. To me and from the research I've done the clutch seems maybe a bit premature since I'm having no symptoms of a bad clutch, but the flywheel seems very very premature. Wondering if others agree I could get away without a new flywheel until the next clutch is put in. The water pump showed some signs of possible leakage during the inspection, although minor, so I understand that. So too with the RMS, a bit of sweating but no drops on the garage floor. I'll likely get another quote from the local Porsche dealer, but I'm fairly certain the quote given is pretty competitive, just broad in scope and so there is a bit of sticker shock.
Thanks for the collective wisdom of this group and appreciate any insight. Sorry for my ramblings and long-winded post as well.
Just picked up my first Porsche, a 2002 Boxster S, with a touch over 75,000 kms (about 46,600 miles) on it. Has service records back to 2008 and is in great-looking and driving condition. I purchased from the owner's family this past labour day weekend and from what I can tell with the records and what they told me it has been driven about 1,300 kms (or 800 miles) since the spring of 2017. I've got the first few things done including draining old gas and refilling (with a shot of Seafoam in the tank), new tires, and an inspection at a local and respected Porsche Indy shop. Since there's not much time left before I put the car into storage (I usually regret it if it's not in storage by Canadian Thanksgiving, October 10th this year) I'm planning on driving her around and then doing oil right before storage and then brake fluid right when it come out of hibernation. Oil looks relatively clear when checking dipstick and cap regularly for any foaming after drives.
My main questions comes down to the finding of camshaft deviation at the indy shop. They informed me that cam deviation was at 7, but no details on which bank or both. I've got a Durametric incoming, it may be here today or tomorrow, so I can look at and watch values myself on a cool and hot engine. The shop has quoted me the work to effectively replace what I interpret as the suspected and common culprit being the Tensioner Guides on both banks. Along with that quote, and while the engine is out of the car, the shop recommended the IMS upgrade, clutch, flywheel, RMS, PCV Valve, Spark plugs and water pump. I get that doing a bunch of stuff while the engine is out could save me money in the long run, but the scope of the work as you can imagine is not cheap. I also understand that's the price of entry for owning a car that even though it didn't cost me a significant amount, was a fairly expensive car when it was new and so I can't expect the maintenance and service to be anywhere near our Toyotas. If I move forward with a shop doing teh Tensioner Guides, is there anything else that makes sense to add or take away from this work? I looked at doing it on my own but I'd likely do the tensioners with the engine in place and it looks like a job I'd regret without long-term access to a lift. In addition to that I'm not overly comfortable impacting the timing of the engine. To me and from the research I've done the clutch seems maybe a bit premature since I'm having no symptoms of a bad clutch, but the flywheel seems very very premature. Wondering if others agree I could get away without a new flywheel until the next clutch is put in. The water pump showed some signs of possible leakage during the inspection, although minor, so I understand that. So too with the RMS, a bit of sweating but no drops on the garage floor. I'll likely get another quote from the local Porsche dealer, but I'm fairly certain the quote given is pretty competitive, just broad in scope and so there is a bit of sticker shock.
Thanks for the collective wisdom of this group and appreciate any insight. Sorry for my ramblings and long-winded post as well.
#2
Burning Brakes
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The shop has how many disassembled Porsche engines on the shop floor? How many cars in the parking lot just being done or waiting? A proxy for how much do they know about these boxer engines.
AOS while it is out.
Consider also brake fluid. And grease the caliper pistons. Might as well do alignment and check the date on the tires.
Darn easy for me to spend your money.
I spent $3k (in 2004's dollars) in the first month of owning my second Boxster. It was flawless for the next 5 years.
AOS while it is out.
Consider also brake fluid. And grease the caliper pistons. Might as well do alignment and check the date on the tires.
Darn easy for me to spend your money.
I spent $3k (in 2004's dollars) in the first month of owning my second Boxster. It was flawless for the next 5 years.
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DesmoDoe (09-21-2022)
#3
Racer
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Hi. I recently purchased a 97 with the same miles as yours. Mine has the dual row IMS bearing so am not doing anything with that until the clutch needs to be replaced. I replaced the spark plugs, brake fluid, coolant, serpentine belt, oil, air and cabin filters...all easy to do. With regard to the other stuff the shop listed, I would ask for a rationale and if it's a good rationale, it sounds like you may have to lay that money down so you will have piece of mind.
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DesmoDoe (09-21-2022)
#4
Rennlist Member
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All of those items are a good idea to do. Many can be DIY'd pretty easily. I'd have them do the chain guides, RMS, IMS, and Clutch. DIY the rest. AOS (PCV) is a bit of a pain to DIY maybe have them do that too it's easier to do w/ the transmission out or entire driveline out if they do it that way.
Keep in mind when these cars get old enough that they are cheap to buy they are not any cheaper to fix than when they were new.
Keep in mind when these cars get old enough that they are cheap to buy they are not any cheaper to fix than when they were new.
Last edited by Nickshu; 09-30-2022 at 10:37 AM.
#5
Racer
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All of those items are a good idea to do. Many can be DIY'd pretty easily. I'd have them do the chain guides, RMS, IMS, and Clutch. DIY the rest. AOS (PCV) is a bit of a pain to DIY maybe have them do that too it's easier to do w/ the transmission out or entire driveline out if they do it that way.
Keep in mind when these cars get old enough that they are cheap to buy they are not any cheaper to fix than when they were new.
Keep in mind when these cars get old enough that they are cheap to buy they are not any cheaper to fix than when they were new.