Window Drop
 

Hi All, Some weird stuff going on with the window drop when getting in and out of the car. 99 boxster base. The right side seems fine. It seems it only half works. Heres what's going on:

Open door from inside get out, shut the door it works(only one time)

Open and shut door repeatedly from the inside without getting out it works

Open door from outside and shut it from outside(without getting in the car) it fails

It seems I only have 1 chance to shut the door from the outside after I get out of the car.

I know there are 3 micros 1. inside door handle 2.outside door handle 3.door open/closed sensor.

The least expensive would be the open/closed sensor PN# 996-613-125-00 is this the one I need to replace. Where is it? Tried to find peering into the door with panel removed of course.

The roof latch appears to work fine.

Thanks Vince

Your latch handle (outside) switch is faulty or latch switch is faulty. Get is scanned at a shop that can read live data. It will tell them/you what the car thinks is going on. In one of the scenarios where the window stays up, the car will be thinking the door is still closed. That is where your issue is. Based on your description, likely the handle switch. Or, buy and replace parts and hope for the best....

OK Thanks V

To clarify.... latch switch would be' window drop switch'....correct?

The way it was explained/demo'd to me by a tech is with the door closed if either handle is pulled but just short of opening the door the window should drop. This is a sign the door handle switches are working. If the handle is released before the door is opened the window should go up. This is a sign the door latch switch is working.

If the door is opened when the handle is released this is a sign the door latch switch is working. And when the door is closed the window should go up again. This is a sign the door latch switch is working.

But it is a bit more complicated than that. If the window goes up after the door is open this -- at least in my experience -- is a sign of a bad door lock controller. This is a rather large metal/plastic box with some mechanical and electronics that handles the window drop/raise during door opening/closing, the window drop when the top is lowered or raised.

A window that manifests a pathetic drop when the door is opened and a lethargic raise when the door is closed, if when the window is manually lowered or raised and the window cocks as it goes down or up that is a sign of a bad window regulator.

If after a wash/rain if the door bottoms are damp -- the carpet along the bottom of the doors -- this is a sign the membrane in the door has failed and is letting water from the wet side of the door over into the dry side. This will cause electrical gremlins with the door/window/lock at first but if left unaddressed can have electrical gremlins appearing from other seemingly unrelated areas. The membranes can't (or shouldn't) be repaired (reglued). It won't last. The membrane is failing due to age/exposure. Replacement is the only real solution.

Did a little more poking around and replaced the switch on the outside handle no change.part #996 613 125 00 I jiggled the latch on the door jamb
and the window jerked up and down so that switch may be the bad one. Anyone have a part # for this?

FYI....found the problem. I pulled the door latch and opened the electrical side up....all good. It turned out being the cam on the mechanical side of the latch. There is a cam that activates the door open/closed micro switch. Flat side of cam allows switch to be open which causes window to be in the up position when the door/latch is closed. The rounded part of the cam closes the switch(completes the circuit) and causes the window to drop 1/4 of an inch or so when the door is open(actually when the latch is not closed....this is the round part of the cam activating the switch causing the window to drop). The round part of the cam has a plastic covering which was eaten through from the switch so the switch was confused as to wether it should be closed or open. At 1st I cleaned off the remaining plastic and put a thin film of epoxy but there was a curing issue and it didn't work. I decided just left the bare metal cam and see if it had enough curvature on it to activate the switch....it did.....so it worked.....only for a few hrs so far.....anything changes I'll post.....V