Suspension Refresh - What would you do?
#1
Suspension Refresh - What would you do?
I'm updating my front suspension this weekend. I replaced the struts a month ago, and I'll be replacing everything else in the next couple days. I've seen many articles and "how to's" to replace each individual part, but I cannot find anything that shows the complete job, start to finish.
My question is, how would you guys go about this? Do you think there's a certain order of preference that would make things easier for me? Would it matter the order of what part goes back on, or would it not make that big of a difference? Any tips/tricks would be GREATLY appreciated!
My question is, how would you guys go about this? Do you think there's a certain order of preference that would make things easier for me? Would it matter the order of what part goes back on, or would it not make that big of a difference? Any tips/tricks would be GREATLY appreciated!
#2
Rennlist Member
After you do it once, it will get a lot easier. I've pulled the suspension apart on the two Boxsters I have about half a dozen times for various reasons. Here's the order I'd use:
Hints and tips:
- Wheel (duh).
- Caliper.
- Lower control arm.
- Tie rod.
- Ball joint.
- Drop link (the bolt through the strut).
- Top of strut.
Hints and tips:
- If you're doing this job yourself, you'll find it useful to use a jack under the wheel carrier to load and unload pressure on the suspension. This helps make things line up so that bolts go in and out easier.
- Make sure you hang the caliper. There's a small perch where the brake line is clipped to the wheel well. I zip tie mine to that.
- When you remove the bolt holding the lower control arm to the coffin arm, the lower control arm should just pivot out of the way with moderate effort.
- I use the $20 Harbor Freight ball joint separator to get the ball joints apart. The thing works like a champ.
- If you don't need to remove the entire wheel carrier (i.e.: You're only replacing the strut), you can do it without releasing the ball joint. You still need to undo the lower control arm and push it aside. But after you remove the drop link from the wheel carrier, the strut will be able to move up and down in the wheel carrier. At this point, you can undo the three top nuts and the strut and wheel carrier will drop down and you can rotate the top of the strut outward to clear the wheel well.
- Unless you're replacing the coffin arm, don't touch the bolt holding it to the chassis, that will screw up your alignment.
- If you're replacing the tie rod ends, you can back off the retaining bolt a little, then put the new tie rod end on and retighten. Then you can most likely get away without doing an alignment.
#3
After you do it once, it will get a lot easier. I've pulled the suspension apart on the two Boxsters I have about half a dozen times for various reasons. Here's the order I'd use:
Hints and tips:
- Wheel (duh).
- Caliper.
- Lower control arm.
- Tie rod.
- Ball joint.
- Drop link (the bolt through the strut).
- Top of strut.
Hints and tips:
- If you're doing this job yourself, you'll find it useful to use a jack under the wheel carrier to load and unload pressure on the suspension. This helps make things line up so that bolts go in and out easier.
- Make sure you hang the caliper. There's a small perch where the brake line is clipped to the wheel well. I zip tie mine to that.
- When you remove the bolt holding the lower control arm to the coffin arm, the lower control arm should just pivot out of the way with moderate effort.
- I use the $20 Harbor Freight ball joint separator to get the ball joints apart. The thing works like a champ.
- If you don't need to remove the entire wheel carrier (i.e.: You're only replacing the strut), you can do it without releasing the ball joint. You still need to undo the lower control arm and push it aside. But after you remove the drop link from the wheel carrier, the strut will be able to move up and down in the wheel carrier. At this point, you can undo the three top nuts and the strut and wheel carrier will drop down and you can rotate the top of the strut outward to clear the wheel well.
- Unless you're replacing the coffin arm, don't touch the bolt holding it to the chassis, that will screw up your alignment.
- If you're replacing the tie rod ends, you can back off the retaining bolt a little, then put the new tie rod end on and retighten. Then you can most likely get away without doing an alignment.
Shawn, THANK YOU SIR! That's exactly what I needed
#4
Race Car
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...n_Overhaul.htm
pelican parts technical articles have helped me immeasurably over the years
pelican parts technical articles have helped me immeasurably over the years
#5
Rennlist Member