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Spoiler and top issues HELP!

Old 12-27-2018, 08:30 PM
  #1  
dgrab1234
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Angry Spoiler and top issues HELP!

After what I considered a careful and thoughtful install of new a sound system, the rear spoiler is stuck in up position and will not lower [spoiler fault alarm under tach is on] and top will not lower. The light does come on when button is pushed...but nothing. On the top...windows lower once top is unlocked....but that is it. No noise, nothing

Everything worked fine once sound system install completed, but next time started car these issues arose.

Car is kept inside year round and no wet areas located [an issue I saw on another thread]. Hoping for some advice from those alot more knowledgeable than myself about these things. Thank You in advance!
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Old 12-29-2018, 03:13 PM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by dgrab1234 View Post
After what I considered a careful and thoughtful install of new a sound system, the rear spoiler is stuck in up position and will not lower [spoiler fault alarm under tach is on] and top will not lower. The light does come on when button is pushed...but nothing. On the top...windows lower once top is unlocked....but that is it. No noise, nothing

Everything worked fine once sound system install completed, but next time started car these issues arose.

Car is kept inside year round and no wet areas located [an issue I saw on another thread]. Hoping for some advice from those alot more knowledgeable than myself about these things. Thank You in advance!
Often when problems like you describe appear after a new stereo or sound system is installed it is because the wrong line was tapped for power. What can happen is someone mistakes a CAN bus (KOMFORT bus) line as a power line and taps into it. Doing this interferes with CAN bus traffic.

Another possible explanation is the sound system does not have a good ground.

I do not know where you were in the car but of course there is always the risk that some wiring was disturbed. The wiring harness, connectors, in older cars gets fragile and if one is not careful wiring/connectors can be damaged.

If any connectors were disconnected they must be reconnected properly.

I think you are probably faced with reviewing your work and checking all power/ground/signal connections.
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Old 12-29-2018, 05:33 PM
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dgrab1234
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Originally Posted by Macster View Post
Often when problems like you describe appear after a new stereo or sound system is installed it is because the wrong line was tapped for power. What can happen is someone mistakes a CAN bus (KOMFORT bus) line as a power line and taps into it. Doing this interferes with CAN bus traffic.

Another possible explanation is the sound system does not have a good ground.

I do not know where you were in the car but of course there is always the risk that some wiring was disturbed. The wiring harness, connectors, in older cars gets fragile and if one is not careful wiring/connectors can be damaged.

If any connectors were disconnected they must be reconnected properly.

I think you are probably faced with reviewing your work and checking all power/ground/signal connections.

I went back and disconnected the new sound system and placed everything back to original with no change in situation.
When I did complete the new system install...everything worked fine. Parked car for a week and this is when all these things came to light. Also I did have battery disconnected throughout the install process.
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:10 PM
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"Parked car for a week and this is when all these things came to light."

Well, this suggests 2 possible explanations: 1) Mice have been in the car. 2) If the car was outside possibly water has gotten in the cabin or in one of the doors (the membrane has failed and let water from the wet side over into the dry side.

Oh, I'll add a (3): Marginal battery.

For (1) check for mice sign. Trash on drop of the plastic panels under the body. Patches of bare carpet. Gnaw marks on wiring/hoses/tubes.

For (2) check for dampness of the carpet and under the seats in the cabin. Also, check for dampness of the carpet that runs along the bottom of either door. In some cases if the water ingress is severe a door when shaken will make water sloshing sounds. But dampness is the most common sign water is in the door where it shouldn't be.

At 80F a fully charged battery is 100% efficient. At 50F this drops to 82%. At 30F it is down 64%.

You need to be sure the battery is fully charged and can retain a charge over time.

Also, since you disconnected the battery -- which was the right thing to do -- while you worked on the car be darn sure you have the battery connections on good and the connections are tight.

Added: Thought I'd add this just in case one tends to dismiss mice in one week...

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ore-grrrr.html

The post starts with: "Sharing my experience on my 99 C2 left in the garage for a week."

Last edited by Macster; 12-30-2018 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Added: "Added: ..."
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