jcp99

Lug bolts that work loose make that sound............

JDurett

Jcp99 you are exactly correct!
Apparently the last time i worked on the car i had taken both rear tires off for some reason and did not tighten the lug nuts. I just jacked the car up and went to spin the wheels to listen for noise and the tire just wobbled around. After feeling quite stupid, i realized my error. I just went around all four tires and tightened up the lugs on all of them. About to go for a ride now and see if there are other issues yet to address.

Thanks to all.

jcp99

Glad it was something simple......

joseph mitro

oh man, that's scary! good call jcp99!
glad to hear you got it sorted out quickly and safely

paulofto

Been there, done that. A couple of years ago I did the same thing. The nuts were partially tightened but I failed to torque them. As I drove the car it started to handle like s#it and a lightbulb went off in my head. I now put the torque wrench on the front seat whenever I raise the car to remove the wheels to remind me to torque them up before driving.

JDurett

P0452 EVAP Code

I have worked my way through all my issues but this on has me stumped. I started with a P0453 and resolved that by adding 3 wires in rear trunk. (I swapped in a 1997 engine into my 1999 Boxster base model. Turns out that the engine wiring harness was wired a little different for 1999 than for the 1997 requiring 3 wires that were missing.) The code then changed to P0452. After that i found that i was getting 5v, 2.7v, and 0v on the wires from the connector to the tank pressure sensor. The 2.7v never changed. I changed out the tank pressure sensor with a used one and now the 2.7v cycles to zero and back periodically. (It slowly counts down from 2.7v to zero, and then slowly back up after switching - you can watch it on a voltmeter. Looks like it is working properly but i am still getting the error P0452. This leads to a check engine light and the evap system tests never complete so i cannot get through the vehicle inspection test. I have also reset the DME by removing battery, key on for 60 seconds, removing key for 10 seconds etc. There are no issues with the engine running. I have the Durametric tester and it shows no other issues.

I'm wondering if the used tank pressure sensor could still be somehow not working properly and maybe even the DME has something wrong. Not sure where to go from here.

JDurett

Update

I had replaced the gas cap a few days ago but still had same problem (P0452 and evap tests will not complete to pass emissions test.) Yesterday i used a o-ring from a AutoZone package and put it in the new gas cap to ensure a good seal. The symptoms changed a bit to: when measuring the voltage on the data wire on the tank pressure sensor with the car idling i get 2.788v, the voltage maintains for a period of time then drops to 0.258v, it slowly drops to about 0.260v over a short period of time, then rises relatively quickly to 2.788v. It stays here for a period of time then it drops very quickly to 0.0v. A few seconds go by and the voltage returns to 2.788v. The cycle repeats. The evap tests now advance leaving only the "ev test" not completed. The P0452 code returned too.

I'm thinking that a new tank sensor is in order.

JDurett

** Update **
I drove the car a few miles and the check engine light didn't come back on. I went to the vehicle inspection station this morning and the car passed inspection. On the way home i stopped at a 4 way intersection, turned left and heard a mechanical crunching noise from behind and below me. The engine would rev up but there was no forward drive from the engine. I checked to make sure i was in gear and i had resistance on clutch pedal and it felt positive when i put the car in gear but still no forward movement. &%$#@ I rolled to a stop and turned the engine off. As the car rolled to a stop there was a noise like something was hitting against something else but that was it. Seeming no way to engage drive to the rear wheels. ?? Looked under the car and nothing out of the ordinary. One thing ... on the way home from the inspection the plastic power steering hose separated just at the connector and sprayed fluid around a bit. When it rains it pours.

jcp99

Did you do anything to the CV joints while they were out? Sure you torqued them up?

JDurett

** Update **
Hi jcp99,
Thank you for the reply. I just looked under the car and all 6 bolts on the driver side cv had backed out or broken off maybe. I can't for the life of me imagine that i didn't tighten them up. I even remember having to spin the tire around to even get at the bolts. Anyway the shaft was just hanging down and 4 or 5 of the bolts were dangling in position. The power steering hose had separated right at the brass connector - the plastic hose side with a brass end piece just pulled right out???

I'm ordering 6 new bolts and another power steering hose and hopefully i'm back on the road again.

Thanks again, Jerry.

JDurett

** Update **
I realize now that the "basket" locks the other end of the hose into the coupler. I'll bet i didn't get it in correctly when i reassembled the hose after getting the engine in. The school of hard knocks is a tough school. If i didn't damage the coupler i'll reassemble correctly and power steering should be ok.

jcp99

Hopefully the p/s connection is salvageable. That’s troubling news on the driveshaft bolts. If indeed you torqued them I’d double check the spec and if it’s what you remember and the correct value, I’d find another torque wrench. I think I would put a wrench on every bolt you can access that has been removed and double check my work. It’s easy to get in a hurry when approaching the end of a long project and overlook some of the easy things.

JDurett

I've ordered new bolts and i will go over everything that i installed since there will be easy access if i have to take that bottom plate off again. I hope that ps is salvageable too - it is pretty expensive to get new parts.

JDurett

jcp99,
I got a chance to disassemble the car down to the axle and found that 3 of the 6 screw holes in the flange on the transmission had some damage to the threads. Do you think that re-tapping the flange has any chance of resolving the damage? Replacement of the flange will solve this but that solution is more problematic. That little metal basket in the power steering line is damaged. I'll have to replace it.

Thanks...

jcp99

You won't loose anything by trying to salvage the threads. It's going to be a bit tedious but should be doable with care. If they won't torque up to spec you can always bite the bullet and change them (the flange).