Thanks for the confidence.
I'm pretty sure I can do it.
I have Wayne's book, I have been scouring the boards for info, and I ordered a flex 10mm socket for that one pesky bolt.
Yes, the mechanic did replace the alternator pulley, clutch, and the serpentine belt so those are solid.
I just need to get it running so I can get back on my feet and then continue to maintain/replace what's needed as I go along.

 

Some of you may be sick of reading this, but here goes.

I pulled out the water pump and thermostat today.
Tested the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and it opened, so I know that works.

The water pump did have a blade or two that appeared to have had some of the blade sanded down a bit. Nothing too major, but when I compared it to the new pump and used a magnifier, it really looks like it to me.

I'm going to flush the car a few times tomorrow and see what happens.
I'm really not quite sure how anything will be any different as the thermostat is good, the pump bearing spins fine and other than a barely noticeable amount of impeller being sanded off, nothing's changed.

Will a new pump and thermostat, coolant overflow cap, flush, fill, and I also cleaned out a small village of hobbits worth of crap out of the radiators (which I'm sure was blocking some air flow) make any difference or do I have bigger problems?

The coolant had no oil in it and was pink and the oil was dark, but did not have coolant in it when I changed it a few days ago.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the coolant overflow will stop.

I will know more tomorrow and thanks for the help and encouragement.

I now know how to do a thermostat and water pump!

 

Not sick of reading just busy. Wrapping up a project at work and before I start another thinking about some vacation time. I have 237 hours of vacation time and have not had much time off for a couple of years.

The blades of the impeller of my old water pump from my Boxster sort of looked like they had rubbed against the block. However there was not enough play to allow this to happen.

Also, I found it hard to believe the blades were made too tall on purpose and then expected to rub against the block and wear to a close running fit. Too much risk of a blade not wearing in but breaking I would think.

 

Thanks for the reply.
All that vacation time is awesome.
Enjoy it.

I really hope this car thing works out for me.

I'll know tomorrow.

I bought so much distilled water, it's not funny.

 

Well, this can't be good.
I buttoned everything up and started to fill the coolant tank with distilled water.

As soon as I started the engine, water started flowing out of the overflow hose.
That's the ONLY place that I can see water coming from.
I got on my knees with the rear in the air and looked with a flashlight.

As the engine got warmer, it started to flow more.
I shut it down. I didn't even try to get it up to temperature.
As it was running, I could hear a sucking sound coming from the overflow hole in the tank. I put my finger in the hole and felt suction.
This may be a dumb question, but if the tank can't hold pressure, would it dump into the overflow tube or is the cooling system itself under too much pressure and dumps out coolant as soon as the engine is on?

I don't think it's burping, because it's a steady flow. Not a once in a while thing.
Could the bleeder valve be bad?
Would that cause these symptoms?

So the tank may be the problem.
What would cause the overflow to just keep gushing on the other side of the firewall?
Does this mean that the tank is unable to hold pressure and it's bad?
The mechanic told me that the cap vents steam into the overflow hose in case of high pressure.
I have water flowing out of the overflow hose.
What else goes into that overflow hose?
I have yet to find a decent picture that explains the connections on the inside of the firewall and where each hose comes from and goes to.

A pressure test, I know. I don't have one.

The one in there is "The German" one from Pelican and is still under warranty.
I think I was charged about $600 to have it put in.

The real existential dilemma is it's a salvage title Boxster with 145k on it.
How much more $$ do I put in at this point?
If I can drive it to the junk man, I'll get $1400. If they come get it $900.
If I replace the tank, will it last or does it have "hot spots" that are going to crack on me and is the $$ better spent on more reliable car for now?

Ugh.

 

Ugh.

 

i am confused.....overflow hose,hole,tube......water is coming out while there is suction on [them]

 

Just filling the coolant tank with coolant (distilled water) especially if the system was likely not properly filled with coolant to begin with can have air pockets in the system. The system then can expel coolant as the air pockets begin to work themselves out of the system and in doing so force coolant out of various passages/hoses back into the tank.

A vacuum lift system is the preferred way to refill the Boxster coolant system.

Refilling the system without a vacuum lift requires one run the engine long enough to get the coolant in the system hot enough to open the T-Stat and the coolant to flow which then lets the air pockets work their way out.

As they do this lowers the coolant level in the tank and the tank needs to be topped up. To do this requires the engine be shut off and allowed to cool until it is safe to open the cap so one can add more coolant then run the engine again and repeat.

In my opinion a horrible way to refill the cooling system because it runs the risk of the engine suffering localized overheating.

Up to you if you want to go this route or get a vacuum lift system.

You have to have the system fully and completely charged with coolant with no air pockets. Once the system is in this state while the coolant temperature can vary from based on my observation from a high of 226F in high ambient temperature conditions to a low of in the 180F range in low (very low) ambient temperature conditions the coolant level -- when checked with the engine cold -- should remain quite constant.

The techs tell me a bit of coolant can seep past the water pump seal but there should be no wetness visible and the size of the anti-freeze residue "stain" on the water pump casting can't be too big.

Because of this the system can possibly lose a bit of coolant over time but I can tell you that even after 6 months of use the coolant level is still fine with my Boxster. Except when the original cap was leaking vapor I have never had to add coolant even after months of use.

As an aside you can "help" the system if when you are through the with the car but before you shut off the engine if the radiator fans are running to let the engine idle long enough the fans shut off. This means the coolant which was 212F (or 216F or even hotter; 226F is the hottest I've "seen" it) it is now 205F when the fans shut off. The cooling system is less likely to build excessive pressure that can force vapor out the cap or coolant past the water pump seal.

Anyhow, once the system is properly filled with coolant if the coolant continues to overflow or get expeled through any overflow hose/valve there is a problem. I know. Duh. But at least you know the system has no air pockets and the escaping coolant is the sign of a problem.

Unless I missed this in a previous post it is news to me the car is a salvage car. Why was the car given a salvage title?

Doesn't matter I guess. Up to you if you want to continue putting money into the car vs. cutting your losses and moving on.