Drive Hoosier A6 to autocross track?
02-07-2007, 09:58 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Wish it was my GT3! 
I was the lucky codriver. We ran way oversized V710s with some rub at the locks, but it worked. We ran 285f/315r (18). They were designed with stock class cars in mind, hence, the low camber. They work well with aggressive camber, too, though. The GT3 had something like -3.5 in front. You'll like the V710s.
I was the lucky codriver. We ran way oversized V710s with some rub at the locks, but it worked. We ran 285f/315r (18). They were designed with stock class cars in mind, hence, the low camber. They work well with aggressive camber, too, though. The GT3 had something like -3.5 in front. You'll like the V710s.
02-10-2007, 12:53 AM
#18
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Hi Kerry
I'll chime in with my 2 cent I ran my 996TT with pretty good success in the PCA SDR. The suspension was the Euro X73. Thus a little lower and stiffer than stock. No ride height adjustmet. I put all the neg camber in I could get and a little rear toe. About 1 Degree -camberwas the max if I remember correctly. Added GT3 sway bars front and rear. You can get away with just a rear bar. If you install the fronts you may need TRG curved end links. I think the front bar was set a one off full soft and the rear was full stiff.
Kumho 710 Tires 245/18 frt/315/18 rear 8.5 and 11 rims. The 11's worked fine. 12's would be better as would a little wider frt.
As you probably already know 4 wheel drive is a challenge to autocross. The comprimise is getting the car to rotate in the tight turns without being to loose in fast sweepers.
I've always enjoyed playing with the suspension so I eventully sold the car and bought a GT2. While the GT2 is very responsive and great fun to AX and Track on the road I preferred the 996TT.
Good luck and Have Fun! Steve
PS: I would stay off Hoosiers if your driving to the events. With the 710's if you get any standing water you would also have a problem.
PSS: I still have the GT3 bars if your insterested. I sold the car without them.
I'll chime in with my 2 cent
I ran my 996TT with pretty good success in the PCA SDR. The suspension was the Euro X73. Thus a little lower and stiffer than stock. No ride height adjustmet. I put all the neg camber in I could get and a little rear toe. About 1 Degree -camberwas the max if I remember correctly. Added GT3 sway bars front and rear. You can get away with just a rear bar. If you install the fronts you may need TRG curved end links. I think the front bar was set a one off full soft and the rear was full stiff.Kumho 710 Tires 245/18 frt/315/18 rear 8.5 and 11 rims. The 11's worked fine. 12's would be better as would a little wider frt.
As you probably already know 4 wheel drive is a challenge to autocross. The comprimise is getting the car to rotate in the tight turns without being to loose in fast sweepers.
I've always enjoyed playing with the suspension so I eventully sold the car and bought a GT2. While the GT2 is very responsive and great fun to AX and Track on the road I preferred the 996TT.
Good luck and Have Fun! Steve
PS: I would stay off Hoosiers if your driving to the events. With the 710's if you get any standing water you would also have a problem.
PSS: I still have the GT3 bars if your insterested. I sold the car without them.
02-10-2007, 01:37 PM
#19
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Steve,
Thank you very much for your response! This is great information and more than I had hoped for when I started this thread. It should be renamed "Auto-x and the 996TT".
Thanks for telling me about your experience with the 315/18 710 on 11" wheels. I had been toying with the idea of buying GT2 sized wheels and running that combination but I think I'll try with the standard, hollow spoke 996TT wheels. Now I just have to find a set of hollow spoke 996TT wheels!
Sounds like you were able to get -1 up front with the X73 ride height; I'm glad to hear that. I'm going with a JRZ Club Sport suspension as opposed to the X73. I'd thought about the X73 but wanted to give the JRZ a try. I'll have it set to X73 or perhaps GT2 ride height. I'm going to work with that and the stock bars first.
I know what you mean about AWD and autocross. My '00 C4 was my auto-x car for four years and there were certain things it could not do. Of course, there are benefits as well.
Thank you very much for your response! This is great information and more than I had hoped for when I started this thread. It should be renamed "Auto-x and the 996TT".
Thanks for telling me about your experience with the 315/18 710 on 11" wheels. I had been toying with the idea of buying GT2 sized wheels and running that combination but I think I'll try with the standard, hollow spoke 996TT wheels. Now I just have to find a set of hollow spoke 996TT wheels!
Sounds like you were able to get -1 up front with the X73 ride height; I'm glad to hear that. I'm going with a JRZ Club Sport suspension as opposed to the X73. I'd thought about the X73 but wanted to give the JRZ a try. I'll have it set to X73 or perhaps GT2 ride height. I'm going to work with that and the stock bars first.
I know what you mean about AWD and autocross. My '00 C4 was my auto-x car for four years and there were certain things it could not do. Of course, there are benefits as well.
02-10-2007, 02:43 PM
#20
Stay aware that for the 996tt you need to keep your tire diameters very close
to the same because of the AWD+viscous transfer unit. For stock wheel sizes
you can't go wrong with Kumho 710s: (245/35R18 and 285/30R18).
I also have some CCW 9x18 and 12x18 wheels that I run Hoosier A06 in
P245/40ZR-18 and P315/30ZR-18. They are a little taller, but with a bit
of fender-rolling and a tiny bit of fender-liner rubbing they work.
Joe Weinstein
http://www.sfrscca.com/solo2/Results...nship/asp.html
to the same because of the AWD+viscous transfer unit. For stock wheel sizes
you can't go wrong with Kumho 710s: (245/35R18 and 285/30R18).
I also have some CCW 9x18 and 12x18 wheels that I run Hoosier A06 in
P245/40ZR-18 and P315/30ZR-18. They are a little taller, but with a bit
of fender-rolling and a tiny bit of fender-liner rubbing they work.
Joe Weinstein
http://www.sfrscca.com/solo2/Results...nship/asp.html
02-27-2007, 03:01 AM
#21
Three Wheelin'
I loved the 245/285 V710's ..the 315 on the rear were to tall and caused an ABS problem.
Drove them to the track no problems with wear. 3.5/2.5 camber.
Why do you not try the new 305 Kumho V710 on the rear? I can't wait.
Drove them to the track no problems with wear. 3.5/2.5 camber.
Why do you not try the new 305 Kumho V710 on the rear? I can't wait.
03-03-2007, 01:09 AM
#22
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ZO6-
Thanks for pointing out the 305/30 size for the V710. Tire Rack doesn't list it but I see from Kumho's site that it's available. Is that a new size?
Thanks for pointing out the 305/30 size for the V710. Tire Rack doesn't list it but I see from Kumho's site that it's available. Is that a new size?
08-09-2009, 08:40 PM
#24
Drifting
Lots of experience on R-Comps...
I wouldn't recommend the Hoosier A6 if you have to drive it on the street. Aside from obvious wear issues and being prone to damage and subsequent flats, they will heat cycle out quickly by driving them to/from events. Once that happens, they are average in their abilities to do what you bought them for.
I have two suggestions for other tires:
1. Toyo RA-1 - A terrific do-it-all tire (cold temps, hot temps, wet, dry, autox, track), with unreal lifespan. You can actually use these as a street tire if you don't do a lot of non-sport miles (actually, you can use them as your only tire). I use them on my car for track and autox, and easily drive to and from events. The tread is not as aggressive as A6 or V710 (i.e. there is an actual tread!). You will not be as fast as you would be on A6 or V710, but you will be equal to a Victoracer, a Yokohama R comp, and way ahead of street tires.
2. If you must have one of the ultra grippy race tires, go with the V710 Kumho. Though not highly recommended, you can street these on a limited basis with little regard to heat cycling. They are the most grippy in their first 20 autox runs, and then go into stable second stage of wear for approx 70 runs. All in all, my buddy and I ran the same V710s on his GT3 for 140 autox runs, put 1100 street miles on them between events, and set FTD at just about event we entered (including the last one at run 140! ) No where near as durable as the RA-1, but a great tire nevertheless.
Now, if you can trailer the car, change tires at the event, etc (i.e. no street miles) and you want to be fast regardless of wear (short lifespan) , the A6 is the best out right now.
Good luck!
I wouldn't recommend the Hoosier A6 if you have to drive it on the street. Aside from obvious wear issues and being prone to damage and subsequent flats, they will heat cycle out quickly by driving them to/from events. Once that happens, they are average in their abilities to do what you bought them for.
I have two suggestions for other tires:
1. Toyo RA-1 - A terrific do-it-all tire (cold temps, hot temps, wet, dry, autox, track), with unreal lifespan. You can actually use these as a street tire if you don't do a lot of non-sport miles (actually, you can use them as your only tire). I use them on my car for track and autox, and easily drive to and from events. The tread is not as aggressive as A6 or V710 (i.e. there is an actual tread!). You will not be as fast as you would be on A6 or V710, but you will be equal to a Victoracer, a Yokohama R comp, and way ahead of street tires.
2. If you must have one of the ultra grippy race tires, go with the V710 Kumho. Though not highly recommended, you can street these on a limited basis with little regard to heat cycling. They are the most grippy in their first 20 autox runs, and then go into stable second stage of wear for approx 70 runs. All in all, my buddy and I ran the same V710s on his GT3 for 140 autox runs, put 1100 street miles on them between events, and set FTD at just about event we entered (including the last one at run 140!
) No where near as durable as the RA-1, but a great tire nevertheless.Now, if you can trailer the car, change tires at the event, etc (i.e. no street miles) and you want to be fast regardless of wear (short lifespan) , the A6 is the best out right now.
Good luck!
What's the difference between the square and round walled V710s?
Additional info if it will help with recommendations: I'm autocrossing a stock 04 Boxster S in SCCA AS class. Front camber is maxed out at about -1; rear is -1.4 but I'd like to increase this, too. Toe is neutral, as it's my DD, too. My wife and I co-drive this car at about 15 autocrosses a year, so cording is a concern. I drive very hard; tend to overdrive, really, and rely on PSM to catch me, and imagine I'll be sliding a great deal on these tires, too. (My wife, too, but not quite as bad as me.) We can spare a 2nd vehicle to bring the tires to the track, but I may drive to the track occasionally (20 miles). This is VA, so temps vary from maybe 50s at the colder events to 100F at the hottest.
08-10-2009, 10:39 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
Kerry
I AutoX my TT, I am getting R-888s soon, remember our cars are 4wd so the tire size is very critical to keep our diffs turning at the same speeds, I am running stock sizes for now. Our cars stock will not get more than -.8 deg of camber at the front end unless you shave a bit the upper strut mounts, or get the GT2 control arms. Based on my experience R-Compounds need at least -1.5 - 2 Deg of camber.
Let me know what tires you get and the sizes so we can compare notes.
I AutoX my TT, I am getting R-888s soon, remember our cars are 4wd so the tire size is very critical to keep our diffs turning at the same speeds, I am running stock sizes for now. Our cars stock will not get more than -.8 deg of camber at the front end unless you shave a bit the upper strut mounts, or get the GT2 control arms. Based on my experience R-Compounds need at least -1.5 - 2 Deg of camber.
Let me know what tires you get and the sizes so we can compare notes.
08-10-2009, 11:15 AM
#27
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I'm with Drew. Neither V710s nor A6 should be street driven. They are too easily damaged and cost too much. There is also the problem of rain. With essentially no tread these things hydroplane with the least bit of standing water. Please, do yourself a favor and rethink your purchase or make other arrangements to change tires at the site.
08-10-2009, 11:23 AM
#28
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sjfehr,
You do not want to increase rear camber for AX. I just got done with a NEDIV Solo event. 2 drivers and plenty of grip tires got hot but the hottest part and most wear wer inside rears, indicating that there is plenty of camber with 1.4L and 1.6R. I would not go higher.
245s will fit fine on stock 18 rims. I have a 987 which has 18x8 and 18x9. I am running 255/35/18 Hoosier A6 front and 285/30/18 rear with 5mm spacer all around but I don't need the spacers to prevent rub. Now I know the 986 is different so its worth doing more research but I know several 986 owners that ran 245s with no issues.
In your area you might want to talk to Dan Dazzo. He now has a 987 S but had a 986 S that he ran to good effect there.
Finally, If you want to go to a nice event this weekend, check out National Road Autosport in Cumberland MD. They put on great events and there is always good competition and a grreat Saturday night picnic.
Regards,
Alan
You do not want to increase rear camber for AX. I just got done with a NEDIV Solo event. 2 drivers and plenty of grip tires got hot but the hottest part and most wear wer inside rears, indicating that there is plenty of camber with 1.4L and 1.6R. I would not go higher.
245s will fit fine on stock 18 rims. I have a 987 which has 18x8 and 18x9. I am running 255/35/18 Hoosier A6 front and 285/30/18 rear with 5mm spacer all around but I don't need the spacers to prevent rub. Now I know the 986 is different so its worth doing more research but I know several 986 owners that ran 245s with no issues.
In your area you might want to talk to Dan Dazzo. He now has a 987 S but had a 986 S that he ran to good effect there.
Finally, If you want to go to a nice event this weekend, check out National Road Autosport in Cumberland MD. They put on great events and there is always good competition and a grreat Saturday night picnic.
Regards,
Alan
08-10-2009, 03:05 PM
#29
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Kerry
I AutoX my TT, I am getting R-888s soon, remember our cars are 4wd so the tire size is very critical to keep our diffs turning at the same speeds, I am running stock sizes for now. Our cars stock will not get more than -.8 deg of camber at the front end unless you shave a bit the upper strut mounts, or get the GT2 control arms. Based on my experience R-Compounds need at least -1.5 - 2 Deg of camber.
Let me know what tires you get and the sizes so we can compare notes.
I AutoX my TT, I am getting R-888s soon, remember our cars are 4wd so the tire size is very critical to keep our diffs turning at the same speeds, I am running stock sizes for now. Our cars stock will not get more than -.8 deg of camber at the front end unless you shave a bit the upper strut mounts, or get the GT2 control arms. Based on my experience R-Compounds need at least -1.5 - 2 Deg of camber.
Let me know what tires you get and the sizes so we can compare notes.
. At my ride height -0.7 is all I can get up front so tire temps are low on the inside and high on the outside.Drew - I've been driving to my local events, about 20 miles each way for awhile now. It's worked for me, but I don't drive in the rain. That means I occationally go to an autox with my street tires.
08-10-2009, 04:16 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
Kerry:
I didnt realize how old this post was!!! so you run 245/35R18 and 285/30R18 on your TT? what tire (brand) do you use? how do you like that setup? do you have spacer? do the front tires rub?
Thanks a lot for your help!
I didnt realize how old this post was!!! so you run 245/35R18 and 285/30R18 on your TT? what tire (brand) do you use? how do you like that setup? do you have spacer? do the front tires rub?
Thanks a lot for your help!