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This past winter I purchased a 2021 GT4 with PDK and I've been autocrossing it all season. It's stock besides a slightly improved alignment from a local Porsche shop that does a lot of track prepped cars.
I'm on the cup 2 tires, and typically run with all the console buttons pressed. Thus far I'm typically mid pack at best. When I try to push the car, I usually spin out, which really saps my confidence and I know I'm leaving a lot on the table if I do a clean run.
I'm planning on some toe links for a more aggressive alignment, as well as some 19" wheels and RE71RS, CR-S, RT660 type tire for next season, but I'm mind of concerned my driving technique maybe holding me back more than hardware.
Are the cup 2 really THAT bad for autocross? Mine seem to give lousy grip for the first run or two, then #3 is decent and depending on track temps, #4 sometimes will feel almost greasy. Combine that with a better understanding of the course and more aggressive driving, and often it leads in a spin and subsequent throttle induced smoke show to give the corner worker some entertainment 😉
I'm not trying to win an SCCA championship nor do any of the clubs I run care about the toe links moving me up a class. Just want to improve on what I have and make the most out of it.
Forgot to ask, is it better to leave PDK in auto or put it in manual and stay in 2nd?
A guy I rode with who runs a 991.1 GT3 and a 718 boxster S (VERY fast driver) says to leave it in manual, but his cars have different gearing and/or torque curves. Mine feels too slow coming out of tighter turnarounds in 2nd with the 4.0.
You can gain a ton more front camber, that's less than my 991.1 Carrera S (I get -1.4). You should be -2.5+. (Without extra parts)
I'd also put more rear camber as well if it was my car. Slight toe out in front is what I prefer and a slight toe out (in? I can't ever remember in the rear) as well for rear stability.
I'd leave it in auto, the PDK is very smart about shifting. Plus it's one less thing to worry about on your run.
Cup2 isn't a bad autocross tire, alignment and more runs will help. Also make sure to get ride alongs with other cars and have people ride with you.
Looks like the sheet is in degrees and minutes, so that would be 1.5*. But yeah front should easily be able to be 2.5* or more. Rear is where the toe links come in but I'm not sure more than 1.5 is really going to make much of a difference. Probably not worth the classing change (if scca that would be ssp or xs which is a big step). As for the spinning issue, the sway bars are adjustable, softening the rear bar will make the car more stable. Running the shocks in normal mode would probably make it less snappy as well.
I run my 2023 PDK GT4 with -2 camber in the front with zero toe and -1.5 in the rear with some toe in. Suspension completely stock. 19” wheels with RE-71RS. PDK in sport, First level of traction control off. I leave it in auto. Only can think of one time where I didn’t think the PDK picked the right gear. Regularly run top 5 in PAX and 1 or 2 in SS at local events.
I run my 2023 PDK GT4 with -2 camber in the front with zero toe and -1.5 in the rear with some toe in. Suspension completely stock. 19” wheels with RE-71RS. PDK in sport, First level of traction control off. I leave it in auto. Only can think of one time where I didn’t think the PDK picked the right gear. Regularly run top 5 in PAX and 1 or 2 in SS at local events.
How much difference did the tires make compared to the cup 2? Also, what's the reasoning behind leaving the TC on (with ESC off I presume)?
Mine came with the Dunlop Race tires. Never autocrossed with them or the cup 2s so can’t compare. From my experience the 200 Treadwear Yokohamas or Bridgestone RE-71RS will be better for Autocross than just about any OEM tire.
yes TC on with ESC off. Based on how the guy with the 981 GT4 I run closest in time with runs his car. Just haven’t tried it with all the Nannie’s off yet. Haven’t felt any power cut with this configuration and still allows some slide of the rear end.
Before you jump in with both feet we need to ask what group you are running with and it you intend to run in a Street ( Stock ) Class with SCCA . for instance. If you are running a Street Class you will not be able to get 2.5 or greater negative camber, as camber plates, shims, and toe links are not allowed. If you decide to run amok, and do those things, that would move you to SSP and at that point you can ( and probably should ) run Hoosier A7s.
Let us know who you run with and what the rules are for your Class , as tires and other items that would be legal in said Class, can be a huge determiner of your mods ..............and hence tires!
Before you jump in with both feet we need to ask what group you are running with and it you intend to run in a Street ( Stock ) Class with SCCA . for instance. If you are running a Street Class you will not be able to get 2.5 or greater negative camber, as camber plates, shims, and toe links are not allowed. If you decide to run amok, and do those things, that would move you to SSP and at that point you can ( and probably should ) run Hoosier A7s.
Let us know who you run with and what the rules are for your Class , as tires and other items that would be legal in said Class, can be a huge determiner of your mods ..............and hence tires!
I don't do SCCA events and of the 3 groups I run with, only one has an issue with a sub 200tw tire. All the changes I have planned won't affect any classes for me.
TBH I'm not that serious about being super competitive, just want to make the most out of the car with some small bang-for-the-buck tweaks.
Before you jump in with both feet we need to ask what group you are running with and it you intend to run in a Street ( Stock ) Class with SCCA . for instance. If you are running a Street Class you will not be able to get 2.5 or greater negative camber, as camber plates, shims, and toe links are not allowed. If you decide to run amok, and do those things, that would move you to SSP and at that point you can ( and probably should ) run Hoosier A7s.
Let us know who you run with and what the rules are for your Class , as tires and other items that would be legal in said Class, can be a huge determiner of your mods ..............and hence tires!
Are you certain GT# cars can’t or don’t use factory approved shims which are approved for use in the P Factory Service Manual? For clarity, I know virtually all of the GT3/GT4 owners are running some shims,, and know for a fact that a prior gen GT3 owner not only shacks shims but rotates strut hats to get camber approaching -3.8 per open discussions because "it is authorized as a means to adjust camber in the FSM". Not naming names but everyone playing on the pointy end of the stick knows this is true. For the record, that's why I think the 718 GTS has no business in SS in that they can optimize front grip to such a point that they can ramp up far more grip on front and focus on maximizing rear traction.
Interesting thoughts and I for one hope you are correct , as my data came from a couple of Competitors who told me all that could not be done in Super Street. I plan to mainly do Time Trials so not a great issue, but if you are correct that could completely change my position. Are you coming to Lincoln in September to careen amongst the cones?
Are you certain GT# cars can’t or don’t use factory approved shims which are approved for use in the P Factory Service Manual? For clarity, I know virtually all of the GT3/GT4 owners are running some shims,, and know for a fact that a prior gen GT3 owner not only shacks shims but rotates strut hats to get camber approaching -3.8 per open discussions because "it is authorized as a means to adjust camber in the FSM". Not naming names but everyone playing on the pointy end of the stick knows this is true. For the record, that's why I think the 718 GTS has no business in SS in that they can optimize front grip to such a point that they can ramp up far more grip on front and focus on maximizing rear traction.
My understanding is shims are allowed (just like crash bolts listed in FSM are) but you can't replace the stock bolts that go through the shims so you're limited in how many shims you can put in place.
I will be in Lincoln (41 SS). I wasn't suggesting anyone could lengthen the bolts which may not even be possible for the inner part of the GT3/4 lower control arm but you can put in 10 maybe 15mm of shims before caster gets wonky. No such option on the GTS.
I will be in Lincoln (41 SS). I wasn't suggesting anyone could lengthen the bolts which may not even be possible for the inner part of the GT3/4 lower control arm but you can put in 10 maybe 15mm of shims before caster gets wonky. No such option on the GTS.
Yeah sorry was referring to GT3/4 not GTS, which I know all-too-well is very camber limited!
I know some folks are really pushing the limits on thread engagement of those screws to get the most camber shims possible.
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Critique My Autocross Setup! (718 GT4)
