cody19

Also any events in south/central FL? New to Forums in General sorry for any mistakes. Thanks!

Auto_Werks 3.6

Your first step would be to find a wheel and tire combo that works. You should be looking at Bridgestone RE71RS, Yokohama A052, and Falken RT660. If you have to find a -1 inch wheel setup to fit a decent tire, then that's what you need to do.

For alignment, I think some of those cars have rear toe steering... so I'm not sure what an autocross alignment static spec would be. I would personally start by asking the alignment shop what the stock rear toe setting is, and then aim towards the "toed in limit" of the stock alignment for the rear axle. The front axle toe should be OK at 0. I would try to get about -3 degrees camber on the front axle, and -2.2 - -2.5 on the rear axle. Not sure how much front camber you can get on the 991 by just sliding the upper strut mounts in, but if you have to add a bunch of shims to the lower control arm to get past -2.2 degrees, you will have to start paying attention to caster and bump steer.

If I were learning this car I would start somewhere near the middle or stiffer on the front axle sway bar, and probably pretty soft on the rear axle. I think you're going to have a hard time finding wide rear tires, so going crazy with the rear stiffness out of the box isn't probably the right bet.

sgreer78

-2.75 up front with shims and sliding; anymore shimming makes the caster crazy as Ryan mentioned above, and -2.25 in the rear with available adjustments. 1/8" total toe-in in the back for me worked with the bar in the middle position, front in stiff. If running 19" wheels you have to pay attention to the clearance between the rear lower control arm bolt and wheel barrel. This usually means no cheap off-the-shelf wheels, even for center lock wheels that might not be an option anyway. Looking into BC Forged and figure out what you want offset-wise within the 7mm rule.