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I raced a GTI for a while in GS and found the turbo lag to be frustrating - having to "plan" for the engine to have power is frustrating. I've wondered if the PDK would help keep the little 2.0 in the powerband for digs.I feel like the taller gearing in the manual would ruin an entire run waiting for boost to build on a slow turn.
I co-drove a GTI at a national event once. I didn't have enough time in it (6 runs, no street running!) to figure out what was happening... between the turbo and the diffs it was pretty confusing. The owner was quite fast in it so maybe I would have eventually gotten there. The turbo lag itself didn't seem as bad as in the Cayman GTS I ran recently, but then it didn't have that sledgehammer torque hit either.
I think a GTS can be competitive for local and some regional (ie. Champ. tours) events if the course has as much or more transitions over swesps and digs. Once the courses become more sweeper prominent, the car really loses ground. IMO this is where the GT4 and GT3 suspension advantages separate from GTS. That doesn't even address the other cars which may be faster yet such as the NSX, C8, and other players. I think the GTS (at least the 2.5T) versions should be in AS and Ed's chart supports that.
I have the base 718 at the lower end of AS. My feeling is that on many courses, especially small-lots, the low-down grunt and stellar handling will make it a formidable car, but if the digs continue to a high speed it will begin to lag behind others (C6Z06) as the torque tapers off. On other courses the turbo lag will make it very difficult to be fast. At Nationals and most Tour courses the turbo lag may not be a factor at all.
I guess I’ll find out soon enough! Running 2019 base 718 with PASM, Sport Chrono, PTV this season. I’ll be running in 2 regions (NEOKLA and OKC), the full MiDivs tour, and will hit Spring and Fall Nationals. Going to be exciting!
Originally Posted by RacingChris44
Honestly that is what I was considering but I really want Agate Gray. I put all of the "T" hardware on it minus the wheels (and the door pulls) and cost wise it comes in a little less (and by SCCA rules, I could legally run 18's). Some of the tests I've seen of the T show that it can move out pretty quickly. I drove a base model at the Atlanta PEC a few years ago and came away pretty impressed. A couple of things I've wondered about the T vs. Base is the lack of SPASM and associated spring rates, etc. (or if they are the same and it is just a +10mm height difference).. Does anyone know if there are significant chassis differences between the base and the "T" that are not as widely known?
Other than the extra 10mm drop (20mm total) in the “T” I’m unaware of any differences between the base optioned like mine and the “T”. Be careful with 18” wheels. I’m running 19”x8.5”/ 19”x10.5” wheels instead of 18” because the base 718 has an optional 20”x8.5”/20”x10.5” wheel, which falls within the SCCA street class +\-1” wheel regulation. An 18” wheel would limit you to an 18”x8”/18”x10” due to not having a factory 19”x8.5”/19”x10.5” option. Just food for thought. 🙂
For reference, I’m running 255/35 and 305/30 Bridgestone RE-71s although they’re discontinued now. Will be going to Falken 660’s before too long. Those will be 245/35 and 305/30 since they don’t have a 255 in 19”.
Good luck this season - Please post what you think. I am still going through the process of trying to find a place to purchase so I'll be running EVX in my Tesla for one more season. Good point also regarding the 19" wheel for the 8.5 up front (which is probably a big deal).
Good luck this season - Please post what you think. I am still going through the process of trying to find a place to purchase so I'll be running EVX in my Tesla for one more season. Good point also regarding the 19" wheel for the 8.5 up front (which is probably a big deal).
I promise I’ll try to remember! I get so busy that it’s hard to come back to all of the things I post. 🤣 I do have email alerts turned on for this thread so that should help.
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