eurotom

Depends on your mileage but engine oil and brake fluid to start. Also your check book and credit cards.

Igooz

125 track days on OEM pads?! Wow!
NASCAR?
When I am not winning mpg awards I am burning up brakes...I need balance...

speed21

And to top that off Igooz when doc sold the car he said it had the same stock clutch which he said never slipped even with the FVD tune after nearly 80,000 miles ( and 125 track days). Beat that! No wonder he never wanted to sell that car.

All i can say is that doc ought to write into Porsche AG and put em straight that he managed all that and I reckon he could wind up as the new poster boy alongside Webber. Actually may even knock Webber off his perch...and Rohl will be put on notice as a butcher....for all the stuff he wore out whilst on the payroll.

Igooz

.............Speed.....I was not trying to feed you Doc material........

Let's get back to OP...

speed21

sorry....I couldn't help myself. When I read it fell off the chair laughing ... I mean doc could have at least fed us something that was at least remotely believeable.
He is a cruel man. Must be all that surgery.....TT surgury that is.

eurotom

Any updates OP?

JayinToronto

Verdict: Warped both rear rotors.

Also, didn't looks close enough at the box so though was told the pads were all Pagid yellows, turns out the fronts were blacks and the rears were yellows.

I'm not sure weather I warped the rotors when I cooked the brake fluid with my OEM pads and just noticed it the next day when I put the new pads on or weather I warped the rotors with the new pads because I hadn't completely flushed the system and or only put it Fuchs Maintain Dot 4 to replace it.

I guess it doesn't really matter. Damage done. Lessons learned.

JayinToronto

Plan is to flush the brake fluid, add racing fluid, replace the rear rotors with OEM, and change the front pads from black to yellow (and try to sell the blacks). Does anyone see any problem with running the Pagid Yellows with the OEM rotors?

JayinToronto

Also, is there anything I should know that's special in changing the rotors on our tts? I haven't looked at it closely (as it's in the shop) but am I safe to assume it's just a remove the calliper, remove the screws, remove the rotor, replace and reassemble? Are there Jack screws?

TT Surgeon

That's about the size of it, after the calipers, two small screws. It's easy.

TT Surgeon

I don't know what you can't seem to process, all I said was that I only ever used stock pads, many sets, but always oem. I routinely changed pads each track day, and rotors once a yr, so whats your point? What pads do you use in your vast experience?
Wtf, do you memorialize every post I make?
Didn't realize I had a fanboy.

tcsracing1

Castrol SRF brake fluid and pagid RS29 pads with stock discs will work nice.

Trouble with oem front rotors is the cooling holes tend to crack. Rears are fine.
If you can find alternative front rotors such as girodisc, protosport etc then you will have a great combo.

speed21

Come on doc, please don't be like that. We have both been having so much fun lately. No need to hop off the bike over this. I'm just having a little fun like you do. Even though what I said about the clutch and the tune wasn't being asked for it kind of belonged in the response as it seems nothing ever really wore out on that old car of yours for some very strange reason. Anyhow if by my reminding you of your earlier statements has raised more questions than can be answered then so be it. I'm used to that with you so it's cool. And yes I do have an extremely good memory....one of my strong points sorry. I will have to try to forget some of your earlier statements if they are uncomfortable for you to deal with. Anyway....as we were.

PS doc love the new avatar and the last one was pretty cool too.

TT Surgeon

Whatever paul
Don't call me doc, it's condescending, ok.

JayinToronto

Found some OEM rotors for the rear to replace the warped ones. One final thought before I replace them, is there anything I need to do with the emergency brake?