anyone fry their flywheel after clutch/pp upgrade?
#1
anyone fry their flywheel after clutch/pp upgrade?
put in a stage 3 Clutchmasters clutch at first sign of stock clutch slipping (chip/exhaust/intercoolers). from day 1 noticed motor would jerk/jump esp in reverse (figured this was flywheel material getting used to new clutch material).
BTw when installing clutch and pp flywheel looked clean, no hot spots etc.
NOW after 2k miles engine jerks/bucks in reverse, in first gear and when downshifting without rev matching at low speeds eg when coming to a stop and using engine braking.
well reputed indy shop says flywheel is done.
Anyone else experience such a thing? pissed i have to drop tranny again.
debating wether i should go Clutch masters LWFW or just startover with sachs with DMFW
thought/opinions/experiences much appreciated
BTw when installing clutch and pp flywheel looked clean, no hot spots etc.
NOW after 2k miles engine jerks/bucks in reverse, in first gear and when downshifting without rev matching at low speeds eg when coming to a stop and using engine braking.
well reputed indy shop says flywheel is done.
Anyone else experience such a thing? pissed i have to drop tranny again.
debating wether i should go Clutch masters LWFW or just startover with sachs with DMFW
thought/opinions/experiences much appreciated
#2
I am assuming that you are running the dual mass flywheel. The jerking could definitely be from that. I would definitely go with the lightweight flywheel and also consider going to a GT2 clutch actuator set-up (the clutch action will then be like a GT2/GT3 which is much more linear and consistent, but harder pedal).
#3
If you're being told the flywheel is done, chances are it was all but done when the new clutch was fitted. The dual mass is very thin where the clutchplate runs so has a tendancy to warp. The flywheels are usually best replaced but usually aren't on the basis of cost. Also if you've had a slipping clutch prior to changing out the flywheel the running surface would have already been exposed to an overheated environment, needless to say the same would also apply to clutch which wasn't slipping but had been operated incorrectly over the period of its life. (And how many clutches would that apply to lol). Chances are the flatness of the flywheel surface was not accurately checked and/or the the running surface was not properly roughed up so to remove any previous glazing, allowing for a bedding in process with the new clutch plate. Again, a lot of users get their new clutch fitted and go hell for leather applying maximum load instead of allowing 500 miles of steady use to bed the clutch in.
#4
thx!
the shop did do a look over on the flywheel and they said it looked clean.
the car was babied for the first 500 miles. the only thing looking back that makes me suspicious is from DAY 1, reverse was a pain and caused a lot of engine jump. ALWAYS regardless of slope. Its when i noticed similiar engine jump when upshifting and downshifting that i knew something was up
trying to decide now whether i should stick with the clutchmasters stage 3 with new dmfw or dump it all and go sachs with LWFW/dmfw
the car was babied for the first 500 miles. the only thing looking back that makes me suspicious is from DAY 1, reverse was a pain and caused a lot of engine jump. ALWAYS regardless of slope. Its when i noticed similiar engine jump when upshifting and downshifting that i knew something was up
trying to decide now whether i should stick with the clutchmasters stage 3 with new dmfw or dump it all and go sachs with LWFW/dmfw
#6
Three Wheelin'
It looks like an unsprung disk, if it is the Clutch Masters FX Series Clutch and that would match your DMFW. Basically, you should just need to match the FW and friction disk: DMFW - unpsrung disk, SMFW - sprung disk.
I have never put a new clutch in where it chattered when reversing. I have had LWFW noise in a stage 2 clutch setup in a UrS6, but after a proper break in, it behaved correctly. You had to be careful on the break in to not chatter the crap out of it. I have also never put a stage 3 clutch in. Stage 3 clutches for race only can chatter when starting from a stop if they are a race level friction/clamping. The FX 500 is such a clutch, which version was yours?
If the DMFW was suspect, it would either move in directions it shouldn't or move too easily or be warped.
Ed
I have never put a new clutch in where it chattered when reversing. I have had LWFW noise in a stage 2 clutch setup in a UrS6, but after a proper break in, it behaved correctly. You had to be careful on the break in to not chatter the crap out of it. I have also never put a stage 3 clutch in. Stage 3 clutches for race only can chatter when starting from a stop if they are a race level friction/clamping. The FX 500 is such a clutch, which version was yours?
If the DMFW was suspect, it would either move in directions it shouldn't or move too easily or be warped.
Ed