2012 turbo cab manual trans
#1
2012 turbo cab manual trans
hey guys, new hear and am going to look at a 2012 turbo cab 6 speed. i am in the market for a 997.2 turbo cab and ran across this one. i know the manual trans cars are rarer. does this mean a increase on price in the market? if so how much? i have had my share of 3 pedal cars and would not mind another but the pdk would be fine with me. anything to look for when i look at it in the next day or so? any questions should i put out there? its at a dealer {non porsche} 46 thousand miles. new to Porsches, so fill me in! Thanks in advance.
charlie
charlie
#2
Rennlist Member
The 6 spd .2 turbos are the rarest of the bunch(and of course these are 3.8l DFI engines, not the .1 Mezger)
On average, the .2 6 spds command a $10-$15k premium, sometimes more, given the rarity over their PDK brethren.
The .2 is bulletproof, even more so than the .1(as much as it pains me to say it) Ask for records although since the car is at a non-Porsche dealer, I doubt it will have any.
Good luck, they're all awesome
On average, the .2 6 spds command a $10-$15k premium, sometimes more, given the rarity over their PDK brethren.
The .2 is bulletproof, even more so than the .1(as much as it pains me to say it) Ask for records although since the car is at a non-Porsche dealer, I doubt it will have any.
Good luck, they're all awesome
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cyclrder (05-03-2023)
#3
Rennlist Member
I purchased my 08 about a year and a half ago. Manual would have cost me $10,000 more and hard top manual was $20,000 more than my tip cab.
#4
At this stage…. The .2 MT Cabs are on par with the coupe (a 2900 mile version just sold for $172K) and they are actually rarer 188 ish produced out of 488ish or so total production 2010-13 production.
if the car is a fabulous unmolested car (95%OEM except maybe a exhaust but not lowered, aftermarket stereo, or wrong wheels and tires), with those miles, it’s probably a $115-$120K minimum kind of car… it will only appreciate from here. With the mileage becoming less important over time. These cars with the DFI engine (2010-13) appear to not have any nasty “gotchas” that the earlier and much more produced .1 cars can have.
Not that a lot of people appear to pay attention about is that typically a non-S turbo was most likely a stripper with an initial base price at around $143ish K (coupes were $$138Kish) And typically listed for $153K….
nice options are heated + ventilated seats, heated steering wheel, PTV (torque vectoring that would also bring you a LSD limited slip) (hard to tell if it’s equipped with that one without a VIN or build sheet), full leather (the standard interiors are so nice that you won’t notice), and you want the little clock on the dash… gives you overboost, and magnetic engine mounts. Yellow calipers give you carbon ceramic brakes. The Spyder wheels give you center lock wheels…. If the car has the latter parts that I have listed then you are looking at a $175K ish list price…. So quite the difference at the time (S cars at the time would have been $165K ++++ I believe I had seen a $205 K S car but must have had every carbon option plus the coveted high end bucket seats!)
I hope this info helps… PM me if you have further questions and good luck! You will love the car and at the mileage that it has, your not going to freak out driving it. (I had to put black tape over the odometer until I got over the fact …. Hahaha)
Wait… more,
Other people might mention getting an over rev report from a qualified dealer… it’s up to you.
the car should start super easily, could have just a tinge of smoke on startup but nothing beyond that… and the exhausts should be even with a little soot on them that will clean off easily (if one side is sootier than the other (left side is usually the culprit)… some people might raise the concern of “bore scoring”….(it doesn’t seem to be an issue with these cars like others).
lastly, these cars need a proper alignment and new fresh tires so take that into consideration when you test drive it (33psi/39psi rear)
if the car is a fabulous unmolested car (95%OEM except maybe a exhaust but not lowered, aftermarket stereo, or wrong wheels and tires), with those miles, it’s probably a $115-$120K minimum kind of car… it will only appreciate from here. With the mileage becoming less important over time. These cars with the DFI engine (2010-13) appear to not have any nasty “gotchas” that the earlier and much more produced .1 cars can have.
Not that a lot of people appear to pay attention about is that typically a non-S turbo was most likely a stripper with an initial base price at around $143ish K (coupes were $$138Kish) And typically listed for $153K….
nice options are heated + ventilated seats, heated steering wheel, PTV (torque vectoring that would also bring you a LSD limited slip) (hard to tell if it’s equipped with that one without a VIN or build sheet), full leather (the standard interiors are so nice that you won’t notice), and you want the little clock on the dash… gives you overboost, and magnetic engine mounts. Yellow calipers give you carbon ceramic brakes. The Spyder wheels give you center lock wheels…. If the car has the latter parts that I have listed then you are looking at a $175K ish list price…. So quite the difference at the time (S cars at the time would have been $165K ++++ I believe I had seen a $205 K S car but must have had every carbon option plus the coveted high end bucket seats!)
I hope this info helps… PM me if you have further questions and good luck! You will love the car and at the mileage that it has, your not going to freak out driving it. (I had to put black tape over the odometer until I got over the fact …. Hahaha)
Wait… more,
Other people might mention getting an over rev report from a qualified dealer… it’s up to you.
the car should start super easily, could have just a tinge of smoke on startup but nothing beyond that… and the exhausts should be even with a little soot on them that will clean off easily (if one side is sootier than the other (left side is usually the culprit)… some people might raise the concern of “bore scoring”….(it doesn’t seem to be an issue with these cars like others).
lastly, these cars need a proper alignment and new fresh tires so take that into consideration when you test drive it (33psi/39psi rear)
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charlierogers (05-03-2023)
#5
Rennlist Member
Charlie, I have a 2010 turbo cab with PDK and love it. Do I miss using a stick? Sometimes, but mostly don't think about it when the peddle drops.
I like cyclrder's write-up, makes sense. He brought up the engine mounts - something to think about if they need replacing. I replaced mine to the tune of $1,200/each (you need 2) and that was a couple of years ago. One possible indication that they need replacing is looking at the exhaust tips - are they sagging down? I've heard of people adjusting the tips to look centered, so not always a tell sign, but if they've never been done...
If you find one with the PDK, you should inquire on the PDK maintenance; basically, have all the fluids been replaced, get supporting docs etc.
For cars of this price range I would recommend a PPI. If you're in Orlando, FL, I can recommend a good shop.
I like cyclrder's write-up, makes sense. He brought up the engine mounts - something to think about if they need replacing. I replaced mine to the tune of $1,200/each (you need 2) and that was a couple of years ago. One possible indication that they need replacing is looking at the exhaust tips - are they sagging down? I've heard of people adjusting the tips to look centered, so not always a tell sign, but if they've never been done...
If you find one with the PDK, you should inquire on the PDK maintenance; basically, have all the fluids been replaced, get supporting docs etc.
For cars of this price range I would recommend a PPI. If you're in Orlando, FL, I can recommend a good shop.
The following users liked this post:
cyclrder (05-03-2023)