Update:

Managed to change the pulley without removing anything other than the airbox/ypipe. I loosened the 2 top bolts of the engine carrier plate with a long 11mm closed end wrench and took the passenger side engine mount off. This allowed me to pull the engine carrier back enough to back the bolt off and take the pulley out. I did this in 2 steps to make the removal and install of the pulley easier. I took the bolt out of the pulley then took the pulley and spacer out together. Install is reverse and the tricky part was trying to get the o-ring on. Good lighting and a second pair of hands to help pull the engine carrier back definitely makes it easier.

One thing I did was to wrap the new pulley with electrical tape before the install. I noticed that the old pulley had some marks/gouges on the rolling surface from the removal likely when it hit the edge of the engine carrier or AC pulley. Not necessary but just an extra precaution. Attached is a picture of the tape being pulled off after successful torquing using a torque adapter.



Torque adapters so you can use a torque wrench:
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Stan...r-Set/208FRDHM



Thanks to everyone that helped out answering my questions.

 

Also wanted to add: If I had used the "screwdriver" method the first time, I would have easily identified the pulley with the bad bearing. I assumed that the one with the rust coming from the bearing was the culprit (could have also been) but the noise remained there after I changed it. I couldn't believe how easy it was to identify the culprit with a long flat head screwdriver. I also didn't realize I could run the engine without the airbox/ypipe/sensors etc...

 

I’m about to replace the same pulley and will use your method of doing so; I’m not trying to take apart a whole mess of stuff. For these pulley bolts, does anyone use thread locker or just torque them down to spec? While checking the other pulleys, the other idler pulley (which I’ll replace as well) was wobbly because the screw had backed out to the point where my fingers could tighten/loosen it.

 

I usually use Blue on any timing belt/accessory belt work on any car I own. Just a little more insurance.

Ed

 

Thanks, Ed. I just wanted to double check before using something like Blue. 👍🏻

 

Did you manage to get them changed?

 

Picking up the parts as we speak (…or type??). Hope to have them in by this evening, if all goes well. Keep you posted 👍🏻

 

Awesome!

 

Did you completely back out the top two engine bolts? I removed passenger side engine mount and loosened the top two engine carrier bolts quite a bit and I’m just shy of having enough clearance to remove the pulley bolt. Even if I’m able to remove the bolt, I have no clue how I would get it back in, not to mention the little o-ring. You just be a magician! 😆 I’m so darn close…

 

yes and I wedged a bar in to push the engine carrier out

 

I was looking to use a prybar to do the same but couldn’t find a surface I felt comfortable pushing against. I ended up removing the throttle body and loosened the a/c compressor bolts enough to lift it up for some additional clearance. I finally got that little (enter word of your choice) out with the bolt. Now comes the fun part of putting in the new one 👍🏻.

 

Success!! Being able to lift up on the a/c compressor, I was able to get the pulley with bolt and o-ring close to position but needed a little more clearance to line up the bolt to the hole. After beating up my hands and ego, my wife came into the garage and, while I pulled back on the top of the engine carrier for extra clearance, she was able to get the pulley into position and finger tighten the bolt within a minute or two. Now we’ve got everything torqued to spec (thanks for suggesting those torque adapters!) and all that’s left is to reinstall the drive belt, air box and y-pipe. You’re right, an extra set of hands makes all the difference. I’m glad to have been able to replace that pulley without removing a ton of stuff. Thanks for posting your procedure!

 

I’ll also share a video I took which captures the noise of the bad pulley bearing. You can really hear it between 2,400-2,600 rpm. In this video I’ve got the windows down as well. https://youtube.com/shorts/qwWrYItQ-2M?feature=share

 

Thanks for sharing the video. Mine was very similar

 

Hi

I had the same issue and having read your post I emailed Mubea who did confirm the following.You’re right we are the OE-manufacture of the deflection pulley 99611501575 (Porsche).
We are one of the largest manufacturers of belt components. However, we do not sell these products individually, but to large well-known repackers. Do you have the possibility to buy the following Febi Bilstein product in UK? -> 34537 as this is the original part from us.
anyway managed to purchase 2 at £95 each which arrived today & were also metal, Porsche OPC were £300+ vat each for the same parts

Thanks for the OE information