Mike Billings

Does the adjuster have to be turned to the left stop like we do with 996tt? No mention of that in the factory manual. Also no holes in the adjuster to engage the pin spanner.

I was not able to turn the adjuster by hand, with the cam locked and the chain removed.

Also do we torque or loctite the 5 screws on the adjuster? Or no problem for turbo cars?

BTW I'm replacing both of the large cam sprocket bolts and installing with dry threads. Replaced the 3x 5mm screws and installed with blue loctite. Camshaft flanges for mounting sprockets are dry. Made a TDC finder, not trusting the factory Z1 indicators on the engine.

Thanks

Mike Billings

Interesting facts regarding the "diamond washer" that fits under the cam adjuster.

Originally designed for about 100 horsepower,the factory cam gear to cam interface on the VW/Audi engines struggle when subjected to serious power.Larger camshafts and stiffer valve springs will add more stress on this area. Even with an ARP cam gear bolt, this interface can become taxed and allow the cam gear to slip around under high torque, and come loose. This leads to wear between the surfaces, and shortly thereafter complete failure of the bolts and joint.This ruins the cam gear and camshaft, and can even damage the surrounding components. In order to fight this we had EKagrip make some of their patented nickel and diamond coated friction shims. These shims increase the friction between the two components by up to 3 times what is seen with regular aluminum on steel contact.This greatly increases the load which can be carried. The shims are .008" thick, and do not cause any alignment problems with the cam/cam gear.An absolute must for any engine making 450+ ft-lb with increased stress on this interface from larger camshafts and stiffer valve springs.Increases friction by up to 300%.

Found it here:
https://www.performancebyie.com/inte...-friction-disk