nzskater

I'm on the hunt for a new pad and potentially new rotors. Running mostly spirited B roads, with a bit of city driving and a few track days throughout the year.

I've tried OEM pads which wore quickly and didn't deal with the track so well, Pagid RSL1 which were super kind on rotors, had endless stopping power and last forever, but sounded like a banshee cat having its tail pulled, and recently Hawk Performance Ceramic Low Dust pads which were not really low dust and on track became ultra dusty and cooked my rotors.

Looking for a street-able performance pad that can take a few track days but won't squeal like a bus or turn my wheels black 10 minutes after washing the car. Had seen a few comments on DS2500 but can't find much feedback on them. Anyone used them or have other ideas?

Also need to swap rotors - normally just grab OEM but open to other ideas if others have them.

Ideally I'd not have to run two pad types but may consider it going forward, and have the Tarett caliper stud kit to install this round so pad swaps are easier.

paulfdunn

I replaced my PCCB rotors with Girodisk, and kept using the Porsche pads for PCCB. I've done 6 track days and like the combination; minimal rotor wear, good pad wear, low noise on the street. (Rotor wear is really low. I think I will get 30 or more days at the current wear rate. Pads are wearing about 1mm per 2 HPDE days. There is rarely any noise, and when there is it usually just takes one firm brake to make it go away.)

That said I need new pads and I'm going to try the Porsche OE pads for steel rotors, as they are less than half the price of the pads for PCCB rotors. If cost we're no concern I'd just use the Porsche OE pads for PCCB.

jds108

I don't like drilled rotors as you have to watch for cracks. I'd go with a coated + slotted rotor unless you want to spend the bucks on a two piece setup liek the Girodisk.

Here's what I put on recently: sebro slotted

nzskater

Did you find that the heat cracks on your cross drilled caused premature rotor replacement? Running Hawk pads this would definitely be the case but not so with the Pagid RSL. If they weren't so damn noisy I'd put them back on. I've never felt the need to go slotted but those Sebro look well priced. What pads are you running?

nzskater

Thanks for your feedback. From what I can see Girodisc rotors are 4 x the cost of 1 piece offerings - I just can't see the value personally. If they lasted 4 x as long sure, but I don't expect they do.

jds108

Recently I replaced the rotors and pads before they were due as I had an important track weekend upcoming. I'm not sure I've ever heard of anybody with a Porsche that's had a drilled rotor fail, but you can find others out on the net who have had it happen. It's just one risk that can be removed.

I've got no suggestion on pads. I switched from OEM to EBC reds with the recent change, but my brake master cylinder started failing during the track day... So I don't really know how well these pads will work. They're cheap and they don't sqeak though.

paulfdunn

Interesting. When I was looking for rotors I did not see the Sebro. There seemed to be few options for the 380 mm front rotor.

Are the Sebro available in 380mm? The link had no detailed specs.

jds108

Not aware of the Sebro in 380, but never went out to search for them. I've got the standard sized rotors on my car. The link I posted earlier is for a 350mm front.

Dguth

I was in the same boat as you this past year. Wanted a pad that would perform on the track yet still quiet on the street. IMO no such pad exists that will really give you both. So I swap my pads in and out for track versus street use. It's pretty simple. Front pads on mine pop out from the back, takes 10 minutes. The back calipers on mine have to come off. I am interested in your Tarett caliper bolt package. Right now I've been reusing my rear caliper bolts and torquing them down to about 18lbs. I probably need new ones next time or let me know the advantage of what your going with.

For track use since my car is higher horsepower, I need a lot of initial bite to slow her down, so I use Performance Friction Pads for the track and Hawk Ceramics on the street. I've also been using just stock Porsche rotors. I did over cook my last set and just replaced them as I was getting cracks around all the drilled holes. I got a really good deal on new set of rotors. If the same things happens to these, I'm going to switch next time to the Girodisc.

lorenzep

I have sebro slotted front and rear. I understand the sebro is the OEM manufacturer of the drilled rotors. Running pfc08 for track and centric, semi-metallic posi-quiet pads for the street. Sticker shock on the pfc08s -wow. I will try DTC-60s and watch the brake dust. I know that these rotors develop spider-web like cracking. After six track days this past spring, they were obvious. They made it through days 7 and 8 last weekend, but I didn't think they would. Same experience with stoptech slotted on my old e46 m3. They lasted a little longer though. Could be because of manufacturer or could be the speed differential. I wait till they actually crack before replacing. I have never had one crack on the track. For me at least, they crack when they cool down, so I check them right after a session and then thirty minutes or so before the next one so I'll have time to swap if necessary. I pay about $140 each and consider them expendable. I bring extras to the track. I considered the girodisc option and stayed away mostly because of cost -I had no guarantee they would last long enough to justify the cost and I'm not good enough or pushing hard enough to appreciate the performance benefits.
I have no hands on experience with drilled rotors. Everything I have ever read and heard says they are not to be used when tracking a car. Everything from less surface area to more prone to cracking, more show than go etc. The slotted were just a little more expensive than the drilled and I know their limitations. I'm curious why drilled are OEM stock. I know it's not marketed as a track car, but it is as a 'supercar'. As long as I'm curious, as long as front and rear are both 350mm (I don't know where the 380mm mentioned comes from), why not make them the same thickness -I haven't mistaken them yet, but wouldn't be surprised when I do.
I don't think there is street and track pad that doesn't make noise -that's a question that's been around for awhile!

Peter
07 911 turbo/6sp
Kensington, MD

paulfdunn

The front rotors on 997.2 with PCCB are 380mm, compared to 350mm for non PCCB. So if you want to change from PCCB rotor to steel rotor you either need the correct size in steel, or you can replace the caliper.

Dguth

I agree, the PFC pads are sticker shock but well worth it at the track when your life is in your hands and you need to stop. They haven't let me down yet and I run in the advanced groups putting them through some pretty severe brake beatings.

lorenzep

Got it. Looks like beautiful, but expensive options for the front and you could use stock, non-pccb options in the rear. Good luck.

lorenzep

pfc08 vs. dtc 60. The 08s do work for me. On the e46 m3, they were marginally more expensive than others. They lasted longer for me than HT-10s, so I stuck with them. For the turbo, the dtc 60s are just under $500 for all four and pfc 08s were $910 or so to my door. Spoke to another 997 turbo guy at the track, and his mechanic, and some R8 guys -all with positive opinions, so I'm going to try them. I'm considered advanced, but I don't think I'm good by any means; I'm average in a car that's way better and faster then I am -sure is fun.
Peter
07 911 turbo/6sp
Kensington, MD

JG 996T

Girodisc is two piece. So next time you only have to replace the outside rotor (@ $800). Buy-in is still on the highside.
That said, I would probably just get some brembo or stop-tech rotors.