Clutch safety switch????
#16
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Well it turned out to be the black and red switch that was the problem, installed new one and everything is back to normal including drive off assistant. I guess its hard to tell which of the two is bad since they are plugged into each other. Thanks for all the comments.
#17
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My question is similar to the one in this thread with the only possible difference being the model of my car...
My car has become harder to start due to having to find the right spot in the clutch travel for the switch to allow the car to start. Now it won't start at all. The dash indicates that I have to depress the clutch. Does the clutch safety switch sound like the problem? If yes and I want to keep the car 100% stock, is replacing the red switch (illustrated in the photos in the thread above) the answer? Thank you.
Andrew
My car has become harder to start due to having to find the right spot in the clutch travel for the switch to allow the car to start. Now it won't start at all. The dash indicates that I have to depress the clutch. Does the clutch safety switch sound like the problem? If yes and I want to keep the car 100% stock, is replacing the red switch (illustrated in the photos in the thread above) the answer? Thank you.
Andrew
#18
Rennlist Member
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Super simple to bypass the switch and see... It serves no purpose other than to prevent ********* from starting their car in gear.
#19
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Thank you for your response. I will try that.
Another question in case the bypass doesn't work - The screw holding the white switch is on the back/driver's side of the switch. How does one get in there to remove it without removing the dash?!
Another question in case the bypass doesn't work - The screw holding the white switch is on the back/driver's side of the switch. How does one get in there to remove it without removing the dash?!
#20
Rennlist Member
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I realize we're talking about a clutch and manual gearbox, but I've got a PDK 997.2 turbo and am having intermittent starting issues.
It may start 10 times in a row, then 'the one' will be when the key is turned and nothing happens. Usually starts the next try.
However yesterday, it didn't start first try, then I returned it to the beginning and tried two or three more time. I continued hitting the brake pedal and turning the key hoping to resurrect some life and it started.
I put lubricant in the keyhole in case the solenoid noise I hear engage/disengage when I insert the key was due to bad contacts. It has started each time since but I don't trust it. So, my question...
Is the brake switch also part of the safety interlock? And if it is going bad, would it cause these same problems on a PDK car?
Thanks in advance.
________________
It may start 10 times in a row, then 'the one' will be when the key is turned and nothing happens. Usually starts the next try.
However yesterday, it didn't start first try, then I returned it to the beginning and tried two or three more time. I continued hitting the brake pedal and turning the key hoping to resurrect some life and it started.
I put lubricant in the keyhole in case the solenoid noise I hear engage/disengage when I insert the key was due to bad contacts. It has started each time since but I don't trust it. So, my question...
Is the brake switch also part of the safety interlock? And if it is going bad, would it cause these same problems on a PDK car?
Thanks in advance.
________________
#21
Rennlist Member
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I had the same problem with a tiptronic car. Intermittent starting, and sometimes it would cut power when you were driving - super dangerous when leaving an intersection!
Cleaned the switch with contact cleaner, which resolved the issue. Also replaced the switch with a new one to be safe, but have the cleaned switch in my emergency spares bag that lives in the car
Cleaned the switch with contact cleaner, which resolved the issue. Also replaced the switch with a new one to be safe, but have the cleaned switch in my emergency spares bag that lives in the car
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#22
Rennlist Member
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I had the same problem with a tiptronic car. Intermittent starting, and sometimes it would cut power when you were driving - super dangerous when leaving an intersection!
Cleaned the switch with contact cleaner, which resolved the issue. Also replaced the switch with a new one to be safe, but have the cleaned switch in my emergency spares bag that lives in the car![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cleaned the switch with contact cleaner, which resolved the issue. Also replaced the switch with a new one to be safe, but have the cleaned switch in my emergency spares bag that lives in the car
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks! By 'switch' you mean the brake switch? i'd totally get a back up if they're this iffy. I replaced the clutch interlock on my '12 GTS right after I got it, same issue.
#23
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Reviving a 3 month old thread as I'm having start issues when it's cold. If you jump the switch and the car will now start in gear, how do you check your oil level?
#24
Rennlist Member
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You don't start the car in gear, you start the car in neutral. The switch mod just bypasses the safety feature that prevents you from inadvertently trying to start the car in gear...
And by not depressing the clutch before start, the accumulator pressure isn't depleted while the car isn't running.
The mod has no impact the the oil measurements, and likely no impact to poor starting in cold weather, which is likely the battery or too heavy of an oil for the climate.
Last edited by pfbz; 01-03-2021 at 03:42 PM.
#25
Rennlist Member
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Ok then let me give a better explanation of my issue. Cold morning, push in clutch attempt to start, nothing. Push clutch in and out a few times, car starts right up. Very recent ignition switch, {thought that was my problem}. New Anti Gravity battery. I feel its clutch pedal related somehow since working the clutch a bit then it will start. Now, its a rare occasion but mainly in colder weather. I dont remember it acting up during summer. I bought the little white switch hoping to install this week.
#26
Three Wheelin'
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Just jump the switch on the clutch and try to start. As mentioned before, your car should NOT be in gear. If the problem goes away you have a bad cutch switch.
Not sure which "oil" you are speaking about, but since the car will not be in gear you will be able to warm it up and check the engine oil, if that's what you mean.
If you continue to have issues it could be the starter or the wiring to the starter, though the wiring is much less likely on a 6MT.
Ed
Not sure which "oil" you are speaking about, but since the car will not be in gear you will be able to warm it up and check the engine oil, if that's what you mean.
If you continue to have issues it could be the starter or the wiring to the starter, though the wiring is much less likely on a 6MT.
Ed
#27
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Ok then let me give a better explanation of my issue. Cold morning, push in clutch attempt to start, nothing. Push clutch in and out a few times, car starts right up. Very recent ignition switch, {thought that was my problem}. New Anti Gravity battery. I feel its clutch pedal related somehow since working the clutch a bit then it will start. Now, its a rare occasion but mainly in colder weather. I dont remember it acting up during summer. I bought the little white switch hoping to install this week.
#28
Rennlist Member