Pentosin Leak From Clutch Reservoir...997.1 TT
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
Pentosin Leak From Clutch Reservoir...997.1 TT
Hello fellow TT fanatics...
Has anyone else had this issue, the clutch pedal reservoir located under the hood next to the battery(I'm assuming it's the clutch pedal reservoir because I'm 100% certain it's not the brake reservoir lol) is overflowing and leaking out through the vent on the cap.
I've also noticed that the pentosin level in the pump reservoir(on the engine) is losing fluid pretty much commensurate with whats dripping onto the ground at the front of the car.
For ****s and giggles I drained some of the oil out of the reservoir, wiped everything down and it barely took a couple hundred miles of driving for it to start overflowing again...thoughts?
Has anyone else had this issue, the clutch pedal reservoir located under the hood next to the battery(I'm assuming it's the clutch pedal reservoir because I'm 100% certain it's not the brake reservoir lol) is overflowing and leaking out through the vent on the cap.
I've also noticed that the pentosin level in the pump reservoir(on the engine) is losing fluid pretty much commensurate with whats dripping onto the ground at the front of the car.
For ****s and giggles I drained some of the oil out of the reservoir, wiped everything down and it barely took a couple hundred miles of driving for it to start overflowing again...thoughts?
#3
I had the same issue. It's your Clutch Slave.
Folks should check their power steering fluid immediately. (Which you did)
While it's leaking at the front, it's draining your PS reservoir in the back.
The following parts were replaced to resolve the problem:
1) Slave $600
2) Accumulator $200
3) Reservoir $85
4) 4-6 Hours of labor ($150 - $250hr depending on the shop?)
Parts pricing listed above will vary. You're better off picking these up yourself and then handing it over to the shop.
Labor pricing listed above will vary. I see that Indy shops could do this work for $1200-$1800
I've seen people post here that they paid up to $2500 when Porsche dealer did the work.
Do this on your own if you can. You'll save A LOT of money. I wish I did.
Folks should check their power steering fluid immediately. (Which you did)
While it's leaking at the front, it's draining your PS reservoir in the back.
The following parts were replaced to resolve the problem:
1) Slave $600
2) Accumulator $200
3) Reservoir $85
4) 4-6 Hours of labor ($150 - $250hr depending on the shop?)
Parts pricing listed above will vary. You're better off picking these up yourself and then handing it over to the shop.
Labor pricing listed above will vary. I see that Indy shops could do this work for $1200-$1800
I've seen people post here that they paid up to $2500 when Porsche dealer did the work.
Do this on your own if you can. You'll save A LOT of money. I wish I did.
Last edited by Ruskiy; 08-23-2017 at 02:53 PM.
#4
Racer
Not to hijack, but a related question: just noticed a weird sound from area near the pentosin cap on the engine. When I checked the pentosin level it was low but not empty. Haven't noticed any leaks under the car. The clutch is heavy when engine is off but normal when the car is started.
Could these also be the symptoms of failing slave or something else?
Could these also be the symptoms of failing slave or something else?
#6
Racer
I think I'll have to put the car on the lift and look closer for signs of leaks. Is this an urgent issue or can it wait for when the car is in for next service, clutch etc ?
#7
Rennlist Member
the clutch pedal reservoir is overflowing and leaking out through the vent on the cap.
....
I've also noticed that the pentosin level in the pump reservoir(on the engine) is losing fluid pretty much commensurate with whats dripping onto the ground at the front of the car.
....
I've also noticed that the pentosin level in the pump reservoir(on the engine) is losing fluid pretty much commensurate with whats dripping onto the ground at the front of the car.
Accumulator is 99731416600, $122 on RMeuropean.
Don't know that the reservoir is usually replaced.
Heavy clutch after sitting is classic accumulator failure.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Also, many choose to eliminate this failure prone boosted clutch circuit all together by going to the GT2 non-assisted clutch slave with no accumulator.... But that's a whole different discussion. Plenty of other threads about it.
#9
Rennlist Member
#10
Rennlist Member
#11
only problem with Sonnen is the mysterious shipping charges! Bought many things from them in the past shipping always changed. Usual call from the shipping department. "Mr.X we have a shipping charge of $135.78 for parts". Response from me, website said $67.38? "We are sorry bought this is a different department". When the Penske Porsche dealership opened next door to me, that was the end of Suncoast, Sunset, Sonnen etc. They beat them all and I get free capuchino a strudel!
#12
Racer
Textbook clutch slave failure. The clutch slave shares pressurized pentosin from the power steering pump to 'assist' clutch press. The fluid circuits, however remain separate, with the ps fluid (in a working system) just used for assist,seperated from the clutch circuit by seals. When the seals in the slave begin to fail, the pressurized ps pentosin migrates over to the clutch circuit and overflows the clutch reservoir, and lowers the level in the PS reservoir. And creates a mess.
A good way to check for clutch reservoir pentosin leaks is to 1) remove the plastic cowl cover, 2) clean the exterior of the clutch reservoir completely, 3) take something like a blue shop paper towel and rubber band or zip tie it covering the reservoir... This will allow you to spot even small pentosin leaks or overflow. If your waiting till you have a puddle on the ground, your probably going to have one heck of a mess to deal with as well as possibly getting stranded.
Heavy clutch after sitting is classic accumulator failure.
A good way to check for clutch reservoir pentosin leaks is to 1) remove the plastic cowl cover, 2) clean the exterior of the clutch reservoir completely, 3) take something like a blue shop paper towel and rubber band or zip tie it covering the reservoir... This will allow you to spot even small pentosin leaks or overflow. If your waiting till you have a puddle on the ground, your probably going to have one heck of a mess to deal with as well as possibly getting stranded.
Heavy clutch after sitting is classic accumulator failure.
#13
Rennlist Member
Might be a good time to look into GT2 mod, or BBI mod.
#14
Rennlist Member
I think the GT2 mod is the way to go, but it's a bit of a slippery slope... (no pun intended)
So for example, my accumulator is a bit wonky... Not failing yet, but definitely showing early signs. I'll likely throw on a $110 accumulator, a bit of a band-aid, but I can do it myself and perhaps get a bit more life out of the stock setup before committing to the many thousands new optimized setup will run..
- To do the mod right, it's been recommended to use factory gt2 hydraulic parts, including the GT2 slave, hydraulic lines, gt2 assist spring...
- To mount the GT2 slave, it's been recommended to drill, tap and stud the transmission instead of using an aftermarket bracket...
- To do that properly, you need to drop the transmission...
- If your dropping the transmission, you might as well replace/upgrade the clutch...
So for example, my accumulator is a bit wonky... Not failing yet, but definitely showing early signs. I'll likely throw on a $110 accumulator, a bit of a band-aid, but I can do it myself and perhaps get a bit more life out of the stock setup before committing to the many thousands new optimized setup will run..
#15
Racer
I think the GT2 mod is the way to go, but it's a bit of a slippery slope... (no pun intended)
So for example, my accumulator is a bit wonky... Not failing yet, but definitely showing early signs. I'll likely throw on a $110 accumulator, a bit of a band-aid, but I can do it myself and perhaps get a bit more life out of the stock setup before committing to the many thousands new optimized setup will run..
- To do the mod right, it's been recommended to use factory gt2 hydraulic parts, including the GT2 slave, hydraulic lines, gt2 assist spring...
- To mount the GT2 slave, it's been recommended to drill, tap and stud the transmission instead of using an aftermarket bracket...
- To do that properly, you need to drop the transmission...
- If your dropping the transmission, you might as well replace/upgrade the clutch...
So for example, my accumulator is a bit wonky... Not failing yet, but definitely showing early signs. I'll likely throw on a $110 accumulator, a bit of a band-aid, but I can do it myself and perhaps get a bit more life out of the stock setup before committing to the many thousands new optimized setup will run..