Switching from 997.2GT3 to 997.1GT3RS
#16
#18
From a performance standpoint - yes, you will definitely be disappointed. I wouldn't do it. Especially considering the price delta. $150-170K for the 997-1 RS vs $100-115K for the 997-2 GT3.
That said, if you were going to get a cherry example to hold on to for a long, long time, financially it would be a wise move.
If I were you I'd wait for the right 997-2 RS to show up.
That said, if you were going to get a cherry example to hold on to for a long, long time, financially it would be a wise move.
If I were you I'd wait for the right 997-2 RS to show up.
#19
^ I wouldn't say the .2 RS is a significant jump in performance from the .2 GT3. It's just scratching that annoying itch that won't go away. It's really the gearing and LWFW that you notice. Car just feels slightly more aggressive and peppier. Other than that you wouldn't notice any difference.....
I do agree with everyone's sentiments. Hold out for a .2 RS since you've driven the .2 GT3 for a while. But honestly, go out to a local DE event or send out some PM's. Drive both back to back.
I do agree with everyone's sentiments. Hold out for a .2 RS since you've driven the .2 GT3 for a while. But honestly, go out to a local DE event or send out some PM's. Drive both back to back.
#20
From a driving perspective I would keep the 3.8 and add
1) a shorter final drive,
2) LWFW &
3) plastic rear screen.
you will replicate +_ 90% of the 3.8RS experience for less than $10k all in??
For looks, feel good factor, value retention etc, RS all the way.
IMHO, driven at safe sane road speeds, it will be hard to feel the difference with any of the GT 997 cars.
My 2c.....
1) a shorter final drive,
2) LWFW &
3) plastic rear screen.
you will replicate +_ 90% of the 3.8RS experience for less than $10k all in??
For looks, feel good factor, value retention etc, RS all the way.
IMHO, driven at safe sane road speeds, it will be hard to feel the difference with any of the GT 997 cars.
My 2c.....
#21
Originally Posted by Liquid911
From a driving perspective I would keep the 3.8 and add
1) a shorter final drive,
2) LWFW &
3) plastic rear screen.
you will replicate +_ 90% of the 3.8RS experience for less than $10k all in??
For looks, feel good factor, value retention etc, RS all the way.
IMHO, driven at safe sane road speeds, it will be hard to feel the difference with any of the GT 997 cars.
My 2c.....
1) a shorter final drive,
2) LWFW &
3) plastic rear screen.
you will replicate +_ 90% of the 3.8RS experience for less than $10k all in??
For looks, feel good factor, value retention etc, RS all the way.
IMHO, driven at safe sane road speeds, it will be hard to feel the difference with any of the GT 997 cars.
My 2c.....
Rear end a lot more planted in the .2's and more low/mid-torque. And the 4.0 is an extension of both of those statements. The .1's dance in the rear more and have more feedback all around imo; performance-wise they are inferior; fun-wise on back roads, I'll take my 3.6rs over my 4.0 for fun on most public roads while staying out of jail at same time. LWFW is just an absolute must-have on all of them. I know the 4.0 has most bullet-proof and "best" clutch/flywheel but it is a little notchier than the 3.8rs and 3.6rs. It's not really worth the upgrade on 3.6/3.8rs unless you neef a new clutch. If I remember correctly, 4.0 LWFW can be safely added to 7.1 Gt3 but the 7.2gt3 has issues with LWFW install; might ne specific to 4.0 assembly but I've read and have had people tell me not to do it (I'll let people more mechanically familiar with it to clarify). So, that's only bummer I see regarding 7.2 Gt3. I'm sure there's a different lwfw option that is less problematic for it? But again, it's a must have imo.
#22
Originally Posted by sunnyr
The only .1 RS I would do it for is a green one, just my .2
Originally Posted by 757driver
For the price difference I wouldn't do it personally. That's another car money!
#23
^ I wouldn't say the .2 RS is a significant jump in performance from the .2 GT3. It's just scratching that annoying itch that won't go away. It's really the gearing and LWFW that you notice. Car just feels slightly more aggressive and peppier. Other than that you wouldn't notice any difference.....
I do agree with everyone's sentiments. Hold out for a .2 RS since you've driven the .2 GT3 for a while. But honestly, go out to a local DE event or send out some PM's. Drive both back to back.
I do agree with everyone's sentiments. Hold out for a .2 RS since you've driven the .2 GT3 for a while. But honestly, go out to a local DE event or send out some PM's. Drive both back to back.
I won't argue with you as to what's significant, as it is ultimately subjective. To me, the differences were more than significant enough for the price difference, and I've not even factored in the straight line speed as a result of the LWFW and gearing you pointed out. The wider track and corresponding suspension geometry conveys a very different driving dynamics.
At any rate, they are both great cars. I certainly don't want to be misconstrued as dismissive of the .2 GT3, as it is an excellent GT car.
#26
ok.... .2RS, another beast.
Take .1/.1RS/.2 and setup chassis the same (that is equalize the improvements in the chassis present on the .2), they are same pace with mortal drivers on typical club tracks. I don't give 2 ***** about NR times.
And TC/PSM is a fking interference on track and if you're really driving the car won't save you on a 997. You'll be too far gone for it to do anything, and if it catches, you're going too slow. 991 the systems are much, much better. very sophisticated and ahead of the car.
of course, .2RS is faster.
Take .1/.1RS/.2 and setup chassis the same (that is equalize the improvements in the chassis present on the .2), they are same pace with mortal drivers on typical club tracks. I don't give 2 ***** about NR times.
And TC/PSM is a fking interference on track and if you're really driving the car won't save you on a 997. You'll be too far gone for it to do anything, and if it catches, you're going too slow. 991 the systems are much, much better. very sophisticated and ahead of the car.
of course, .2RS is faster.
#27
Spyrex,
I love you man but i kind of disagree with the .1 and .2 comparisons for mortals....
They made some pretty huge improvements to the .2 over the .1. Some quick examples are better suspension, much more low end torque and the stability control is WAY more advanced. On my buddies .1, it would basically just cut power and really slow down the car. Very noticeable. On the .2, unless you're out of control going into a turn, the stability control is non invasive and really guides the car out of the turn. I know this from when I was first learning the car : )
But this debate is all in fun. Both cars are awesome. Love the high strung fun of the .1's.
I love you man but i kind of disagree with the .1 and .2 comparisons for mortals....
They made some pretty huge improvements to the .2 over the .1. Some quick examples are better suspension, much more low end torque and the stability control is WAY more advanced. On my buddies .1, it would basically just cut power and really slow down the car. Very noticeable. On the .2, unless you're out of control going into a turn, the stability control is non invasive and really guides the car out of the turn. I know this from when I was first learning the car : )
But this debate is all in fun. Both cars are awesome. Love the high strung fun of the .1's.
#28
#29
#30
Driving a dedicated track .1 2007 GT3 that has been taken well past an RS with a full-out competition racing suspension, 100 lb. weight drop, and every other RS upgrade (other than the slightly wider rear track) and larger wing difference, I would agree with others, if being competitive is more important, you will be disappointed with the .1 RS. It's hard to ignore some of the engine and other .2 performance improvements. Spending $15-20,000 on competition upgrades for your .2 would probably make you a lot happier and definitely less out of pocket. That has definitely been the case with me
Jrtaylor9--The .1 also has the LWFW upgrade issue. It spun the nut off the front crank belt pulley after only a couple track days, disabling me on track, which is the usual issue and will sometimes bend expensive things down there. I was lucky. Lock tight'ing it back on was the solution and I would think should be mandatory installation procedure on any GT3 LWFW upgrade. No-one feels the increased vibrations from the LWFW, but its enough to loosen that pulley nut.
Jrtaylor9--The .1 also has the LWFW upgrade issue. It spun the nut off the front crank belt pulley after only a couple track days, disabling me on track, which is the usual issue and will sometimes bend expensive things down there. I was lucky. Lock tight'ing it back on was the solution and I would think should be mandatory installation procedure on any GT3 LWFW upgrade. No-one feels the increased vibrations from the LWFW, but its enough to loosen that pulley nut.
Last edited by garyever; 01-22-2017 at 03:07 PM. Reason: additionally comment