JRZ, Ohlin, or Tractive
#1
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Been toying with the idea of changing up my coilovers in the spring (JRZ rs pro DA) and wanted to see everyone's thoughts on the following:
JRZ 4 ways with inverted front strut
Ohlin TTX 3 ways
Tractive DDA + DSC
My suspension guy is comfortable with both JRZ and Ohlins and has been wanting to try out Tractive, so that doesn't weigh in on the decision. The car does see street time but is not a daily driver at all.
JRZ 4 ways with inverted front strut
Ohlin TTX 3 ways
Tractive DDA + DSC
My suspension guy is comfortable with both JRZ and Ohlins and has been wanting to try out Tractive, so that doesn't weigh in on the decision. The car does see street time but is not a daily driver at all.
#2
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well you know what I like. i've driven cars with JRZ and Ohlins. For a street car you really do not need (did I just say need??? maybe it's want because it's not trivial to get them dialed in perfectly) more than a 2 way. you're not runnings slicks, racing, or have shock pots to allow you to properly adjust a 4 way damper
JRZ seem a little more compliant
Ohlins seem more in control
Tractive is just witchcraft :-)
So you should get the Tracktive setup and let me drive your car on track so I can feel that too. You can drive mine once the TTX are installed.
This witchcraft is the future!
JRZ seem a little more compliant
Ohlins seem more in control
Tractive is just witchcraft :-)
So you should get the Tracktive setup and let me drive your car on track so I can feel that too. You can drive mine once the TTX are installed.
This witchcraft is the future!
Last edited by Spyerx; 12-27-2016 at 04:45 PM.
#3
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I think you should download the free DSC tuning software and play with it for like half hour and visualize its functions on compression and rebound for different driving scenarios to see if these functions appeals to you. The answer then will narrow down the choices between passive and dynamic options. Happy to talk you through DSC software control functions over the phone in an informative, no pressure environment should you choose to explore the functions.
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PCA National Instructor
TPC Racing stats:
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup Am Champion
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge GT4 Pro-Am Team Champion
2022 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup & 991 Cup Champion
2020 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2018 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2016 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2013 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2006 Rolex-24 @ Daytona GT Champion
2004 Grand-Am SGS Class Champion
#4
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penske 9 ways!
#5
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Tye,
if you don't see hardcore track used- then this is just a pure want. I would stay oem + dsc. However if the want force is strong,
I would go with the least complicated. The more complicated coilover the bigger PITA it's to setup per scenario. The operation of window gets much more narrower because you need to adjust all the settings for that scenario, from my experience in using Club Sport Coilovers 4 way.
So if today you want driving in SF- Setting 1
TOmorrow you want to go to alices - Setting 2
Thill - Setting 3
Sears point - Setting 4
etc.
doing setting changes all the time (rebound / compression, for low , medium, high speeds ) becomes a b*** (and i have a lift!) and the settings are real- makes huge difference on how car behavior.
IF you think oh 1 setting is great and never change -- good luck on how long that will last. You will realize settings for SF streets makes your car so bad driving at everything else. Settings for Sears point makes your car a living hell for every other scenario - and it keeps going and going.
if you don't see hardcore track used- then this is just a pure want. I would stay oem + dsc. However if the want force is strong,
I would go with the least complicated. The more complicated coilover the bigger PITA it's to setup per scenario. The operation of window gets much more narrower because you need to adjust all the settings for that scenario, from my experience in using Club Sport Coilovers 4 way.
So if today you want driving in SF- Setting 1
TOmorrow you want to go to alices - Setting 2
Thill - Setting 3
Sears point - Setting 4
etc.
doing setting changes all the time (rebound / compression, for low , medium, high speeds ) becomes a b*** (and i have a lift!) and the settings are real- makes huge difference on how car behavior.
IF you think oh 1 setting is great and never change -- good luck on how long that will last. You will realize settings for SF streets makes your car so bad driving at everything else. Settings for Sears point makes your car a living hell for every other scenario - and it keeps going and going.
#6
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Thanks for the input guys.
Here is my setup currently:
Handling
Yes this isnt a dedicated track car, so I get what you guys are saying. I dont drive the car in SF (I live in the Peninsula and dont bring it to the city, but I get the given example). FWIW I spent a lot of track time in a very modified e36 M3 with JRZ DAs and learned how to dial those in to whatever environment I was in. I do understand 3 way and 4 way means more things to play with and more headaches in adjusting (im not one to just set it and forget it)
Thanks Tom, Ill check that out.
I guess what im struggling with here is the classic Passive known setups vs the kid on the block Dynamic.
Here is my setup currently:
Handling
- JRZ RS Pro Double Adjustable Coilovers
- PMNA 997.2 GT3 Cup Forged 2-piece Lower Control Arms ( Front and Rear )
- PMNA 997.2 GT3 Cup Front & Rear Adjustable Thrust Arm Bushings
- PMNA 997.2 GT3 Cup Front Bump Steer links
- PMNA 997.2 GT3 Cup Rear Adjustable Toe links
- PMNA RSR Upper Control Arms
- PMNA RSR Compression Forks
- Porsche 997 GT2 rear sway bar
- Powergrid Drop Links ( Front and Rear )
- Tarett Locking Plate Kit
Yes this isnt a dedicated track car, so I get what you guys are saying. I dont drive the car in SF (I live in the Peninsula and dont bring it to the city, but I get the given example). FWIW I spent a lot of track time in a very modified e36 M3 with JRZ DAs and learned how to dial those in to whatever environment I was in. I do understand 3 way and 4 way means more things to play with and more headaches in adjusting (im not one to just set it and forget it)
Thanks Tom, Ill check that out.
I guess what im struggling with here is the classic Passive known setups vs the kid on the block Dynamic.
#7
Drifting
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Appears that you're trying to emulate a cup car for street given that you have all the PMNA parts, get the PMNA coilovers setup - to keep it "PMNA".
Thanks for the input guys.
Here is my setup currently:
Handling
Yes this isnt a dedicated track car, so I get what you guys are saying. I dont drive the car in SF (I live in the Peninsula and dont bring it to the city, but I get the given example). FWIW I spent a lot of track time in a very modified e36 M3 with JRZ DAs and learned how to dial those in to whatever environment I was in. I do understand 3 way and 4 way means more things to play with and more headaches in adjusting (im not one to just set it and forget it)
Thanks Tom, Ill check that out.
I guess what im struggling with here is the classic Passive known setups vs the kid on the block Dynamic.
Here is my setup currently:
Handling
- JRZ RS Pro Double Adjustable Coilovers
- PMNA 997.2 GT3 Cup Forged 2-piece Lower Control Arms ( Front and Rear )
- PMNA 997.2 GT3 Cup Front & Rear Adjustable Thrust Arm Bushings
- PMNA 997.2 GT3 Cup Front Bump Steer links
- PMNA 997.2 GT3 Cup Rear Adjustable Toe links
- PMNA RSR Upper Control Arms
- PMNA RSR Compression Forks
- Porsche 997 GT2 rear sway bar
- Powergrid Drop Links ( Front and Rear )
- Tarett Locking Plate Kit
Yes this isnt a dedicated track car, so I get what you guys are saying. I dont drive the car in SF (I live in the Peninsula and dont bring it to the city, but I get the given example). FWIW I spent a lot of track time in a very modified e36 M3 with JRZ DAs and learned how to dial those in to whatever environment I was in. I do understand 3 way and 4 way means more things to play with and more headaches in adjusting (im not one to just set it and forget it)
Thanks Tom, Ill check that out.
I guess what im struggling with here is the classic Passive known setups vs the kid on the block Dynamic.
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#8
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I chose the PMNA cup suspension bits over all the other known vendors as from all the research I have done and talking with suspension setup guys, they have the best bearings hands down. Some may argue this and that is fine, everyone is entitled to their opinions.
#9
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I think you should download the free DSC tuning software and play with it for like half hour and visualize its functions on compression and rebound for different driving scenarios to see if these functions appeals to you. The answer then will narrow down the choices between passive and dynamic options. Happy to talk you through DSC software control functions over the phone in an informative, no pressure environment should you choose to explore the functions.
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#10
Drifting
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my point was - you're using pmna parts pin, keep adding pmna parts pin.
however if it was me and was heavily tracking( i would go cup car in the first place), like Larry and Tom have already said, i would go active suspension. Their is a reason why it's banned in motorsport
however if it was me and was heavily tracking( i would go cup car in the first place), like Larry and Tom have already said, i would go active suspension. Their is a reason why it's banned in motorsport
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#11
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I think you should download the free DSC tuning software and play with it for like half hour and visualize its functions on compression and rebound for different driving scenarios to see if these functions appeals to you. The answer then will narrow down the choices between passive and dynamic options. Happy to talk you through DSC software control functions over the phone in an informative, no pressure environment should you choose to explore the functions.
Thanks!
#13
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The answer is no. The ECU doesn't log any data from the OE PASM module nor from DSC module. DSC doesn't have any interference to the ECU when its installed.
#14
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OEM PASM controller not a big deal - but worth knowing.
#15
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although the PIWIS *can* detect when a DSC is currently installed... I know this since I asked my dealer to see if my FAL was throwing any fault codes ... they could not read it as the PIWIS "flipped out" when it couldnt talk to the
OEM PASM controller not a big deal - but worth knowing.
OEM PASM controller not a big deal - but worth knowing.
I assume then it can read when the DSC is connected, but when the OE PASM controller is put back, the ECU has no recollection that it has been removed?