MKIVdan

Hey Guys,

Does anyone have any suggestions on a good alignment set up for street and canyon driving?

-Dan

F1CrazyDriver

my my car is setup with that alignment in mind, not for"track ".
tire wear is perfect but please take in consideration driving style.

Negative camber front: 1.8
Negative camber rear: 1.5
toe front : 1/32 out
toe rear : 1/16 in
Caster : same as oem front and rear
height : I'll check however I did ask my shop I'm willing to sacrifice rake so front won't scrape, if it meant lowering front.

DYSL

I had GMG do there competition ride height and alignment set up with my OEM GT3 suspension. Noticeable difference.

MKIVdan

Thank you!

Thanks, ill look into GMG

PAULUNM

Take it to Joey Seely at Emotion Engineering and let him work his magic.

He did my turbo when he was at BBI, fantastic on street/canyons.

dustinian

Good call on the BBS Monoblock wheels! I'm also looking into tweaking my alignment and may get in touch with GMG about it soon. Do you have any problems with the competition ride height? I think i am riding at stock height, but i scrape everywhere, including when I get in and out of my driveway.

DYSL

Just need to budget in new chin spoilers.

Spyerx

-3.5, -3 :-)

MKIVdan

A bit aggressive for the Santa Monica mountains?

Spyerx

Only if you like your tires. It's what is on my car but I mostly drive my 964 in the canyons now.

MKIVdan

Im running the RE11's and I like them a lot. Its worth a try for sure.

Ive seen your car around the canyons in the past. Looks great!

Tom@TPC Racing

OP,

There's lot of ways to can go about setting up for spirited street driving that the driver will be happy with, since usually the grip limit is not approached as often as for track use. Also driver preference on feel is a factor.

For me, I'd go this way on RE11 tires-
Front camber: -1.8 to -2.0(max out negative camber via strut tower slots with front top plates at OEM orientation, then add LCA shims as necessary)
Front toe: either zero or 1mm toe-in per side(zero turns in better but 1mm toe-in requires less steering correction for road crowning, could go toe-out for even sharper turning in but should have DSC module to stabalize damping when running toe-out with stock shocks/springs).
Rear camber: -2.0 to -2.2 (with rear camber eccentric dials at or near OEM position, at around -2.0 the rear stability is good but compromises tire wear some which I'm okay with)
Rear toe: 2.0 to 2.5mm toe-in per side (with rear toe eccentric dials at or near that of the rear camber eccentrics dials)
Ride height: at OEM spec or 5mm lower. Personally I prefer not going too much lower for street/track use to maximize suspension travel range rather than for racier look.
Sway bars: front bar at either one from full stiff or one from full soft, one hole stiffer front provides better steering feel in my opinion and is safer for spirited street in keeping the rear from stepping out, rear bar middle hole.

Tom@TPC Racing

I added ride height and sway bar setting in there because ride height affects camber and toe; If ride height is too far from OEM spec then other corrections are made in order to achieve the desired camber/toe which can change the characteristic of the car even at the desired camber/toe. Front bar setting influences the feel at light to medium load range which can work together with front toe to achieve a desirable feel that one expects from a sports car. Of course, for track I setup for speed more than feel but that's completely different usage and expectations from the car, in my opinion.

MKIVdan

Thanks Tom! I think ill stick with OEM ride height, some of these driveways and roads in California don't lend well to OEM height let alone 5mm lower

Rick GT3

several months ago I started at local PCA DE, and did adjust alignment as per Tom specs and think is the perfect for street/track. Also installed the DSC for better response. In my opinion we are lucky to have Tom at this forum, to provide us with all his expertise.