Alignment for street/canyon driving
12-10-2016, 06:53 PM
#2
Drifting
my my car is setup with that alignment in mind, not for"track ".
tire wear is perfect but please take in consideration driving style.
Negative camber front: 1.8
Negative camber rear: 1.5
toe front : 1/32 out
toe rear : 1/16 in
Caster : same as oem front and rear
height : I'll check however I did ask my shop I'm willing to sacrifice rake so front won't scrape, if it meant lowering front.
12-10-2016, 07:18 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
12-10-2016, 08:05 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
my my car is setup with that alignment in mind, not for"track ".
tire wear is perfect but please take in consideration driving style.
Negative camber front: 1.8
Negative camber rear: 1.5
toe front : 1/32 out
toe rear : 1/16 in
Caster : same as oem front and rear
height : I'll check however I did ask my shop I'm willing to sacrifice rake so front won't scrape, if it meant lowering front.
tire wear is perfect but please take in consideration driving style.
Negative camber front: 1.8
Negative camber rear: 1.5
toe front : 1/32 out
toe rear : 1/16 in
Caster : same as oem front and rear
height : I'll check however I did ask my shop I'm willing to sacrifice rake so front won't scrape, if it meant lowering front.
Thanks, ill look into GMG
12-11-2016, 04:48 PM
#6
Track Day
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Good call on the BBS Monoblock wheels! I'm also looking into tweaking my alignment and may get in touch with GMG about it soon. Do you have any problems with the competition ride height? I think i am riding at stock height, but i scrape everywhere, including when I get in and out of my driveway.
12-11-2016, 06:20 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Good call on the BBS Monoblock wheels! I'm also looking into tweaking my alignment and may get in touch with GMG about it soon. Do you have any problems with the competition ride height? I think i am riding at stock height, but i scrape everywhere, including when I get in and out of my driveway.
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12-11-2016, 09:01 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
-3.5, -3 :-)
12-12-2016, 01:54 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Only if you like your tires. It's what is on my car but I mostly drive my 964 in the canyons now.
12-12-2016, 11:58 AM
#12
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OP,
There's lot of ways to can go about setting up for spirited street driving that the driver will be happy with, since usually the grip limit is not approached as often as for track use. Also driver preference on feel is a factor.
For me, I'd go this way on RE11 tires-
Front camber: -1.8 to -2.0(max out negative camber via strut tower slots with front top plates at OEM orientation, then add LCA shims as necessary)
Front toe: either zero or 1mm toe-in per side(zero turns in better but 1mm toe-in requires less steering correction for road crowning, could go toe-out for even sharper turning in but should have DSC module to stabalize damping when running toe-out with stock shocks/springs).
Rear camber: -2.0 to -2.2 (with rear camber eccentric dials at or near OEM position, at around -2.0 the rear stability is good but compromises tire wear some which I'm okay with)
Rear toe: 2.0 to 2.5mm toe-in per side (with rear toe eccentric dials at or near that of the rear camber eccentrics dials)
Ride height: at OEM spec or 5mm lower. Personally I prefer not going too much lower for street/track use to maximize suspension travel range rather than for racier look.
Sway bars: front bar at either one from full stiff or one from full soft, one hole stiffer front provides better steering feel in my opinion and is safer for spirited street in keeping the rear from stepping out, rear bar middle hole.
There's lot of ways to can go about setting up for spirited street driving that the driver will be happy with, since usually the grip limit is not approached as often as for track use. Also driver preference on feel is a factor.
For me, I'd go this way on RE11 tires-
Front camber: -1.8 to -2.0(max out negative camber via strut tower slots with front top plates at OEM orientation, then add LCA shims as necessary)
Front toe: either zero or 1mm toe-in per side(zero turns in better but 1mm toe-in requires less steering correction for road crowning, could go toe-out for even sharper turning in but should have DSC module to stabalize damping when running toe-out with stock shocks/springs).
Rear camber: -2.0 to -2.2 (with rear camber eccentric dials at or near OEM position, at around -2.0 the rear stability is good but compromises tire wear some which I'm okay with)
Rear toe: 2.0 to 2.5mm toe-in per side (with rear toe eccentric dials at or near that of the rear camber eccentrics dials)
Ride height: at OEM spec or 5mm lower. Personally I prefer not going too much lower for street/track use to maximize suspension travel range rather than for racier look.
Sway bars: front bar at either one from full stiff or one from full soft, one hole stiffer front provides better steering feel in my opinion and is safer for spirited street in keeping the rear from stepping out, rear bar middle hole.
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PCA National Instructor
TPC Racing stats:
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup Am Champion
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge GT4 Pro-Am Team Champion
2022 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup & 991 Cup Champion
2020 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2018 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2016 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2013 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2006 Rolex-24 @ Daytona GT Champion
2004 Grand-Am SGS Class Champion
12-12-2016, 12:11 PM
#13
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OP,
There's lot of ways to can go about setting up for spirited street driving that the driver will be happy with, since usually the grip limit is not approached as often as for track use. Also driver preference on feel is a factor.
For me, I'd go this way on RE11 tires-
Front camber: -1.8 to -2.0(max out negative camber via strut tower slots with front top plates at OEM orientation, then add LCA shims as necessary)
Front toe: either zero or 1mm toe-in per side(zero turns in better but 1mm toe-in requires less steering correction for road crowning, could go toe-out for even sharper turning in but should have DSC module to stabalize damping when running toe-out with stock shocks/springs).
Rear camber: -2.0 to -2.2 (with rear camber eccentric dials at or near OEM position, at around -2.0 the rear stability is good but compromises tire wear some which I'm okay with)
Rear toe: 2.0 to 2.5mm toe-in per side (with rear toe eccentric dials at or near that of the rear camber eccentrics dials)
Ride height: at OEM spec or 5mm lower. Personally I prefer not going too much lower for street/track use to maximize suspension travel range rather than for racier look.
Sway bars: front bar at either one from full stiff or one from full soft, one hole stiffer front provides better steering feel in my opinion and is safer for spirited street in keeping the rear from stepping out, rear bar middle hole.
There's lot of ways to can go about setting up for spirited street driving that the driver will be happy with, since usually the grip limit is not approached as often as for track use. Also driver preference on feel is a factor.
For me, I'd go this way on RE11 tires-
Front camber: -1.8 to -2.0(max out negative camber via strut tower slots with front top plates at OEM orientation, then add LCA shims as necessary)
Front toe: either zero or 1mm toe-in per side(zero turns in better but 1mm toe-in requires less steering correction for road crowning, could go toe-out for even sharper turning in but should have DSC module to stabalize damping when running toe-out with stock shocks/springs).
Rear camber: -2.0 to -2.2 (with rear camber eccentric dials at or near OEM position, at around -2.0 the rear stability is good but compromises tire wear some which I'm okay with)
Rear toe: 2.0 to 2.5mm toe-in per side (with rear toe eccentric dials at or near that of the rear camber eccentrics dials)
Ride height: at OEM spec or 5mm lower. Personally I prefer not going too much lower for street/track use to maximize suspension travel range rather than for racier look.
Sway bars: front bar at either one from full stiff or one from full soft, one hole stiffer front provides better steering feel in my opinion and is safer for spirited street in keeping the rear from stepping out, rear bar middle hole.
12-12-2016, 01:47 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OP,
There's lot of ways to can go about setting up for spirited street driving that the driver will be happy with, since usually the grip limit is not approached as often as for track use. Also driver preference on feel is a factor.
For me, I'd go this way on RE11 tires-
Front camber: -1.8 to -2.0(max out negative camber via strut tower slots with front top plates at OEM orientation, then add LCA shims as necessary)
Front toe: either zero or 1mm toe-in per side(zero turns in better but 1mm toe-in requires less steering correction for road crowning, could go toe-out for even sharper turning in but should have DSC module to stabalize damping when running toe-out with stock shocks/springs).
Rear camber: -2.0 to -2.2 (with rear camber eccentric dials at or near OEM position, at around -2.0 the rear stability is good but compromises tire wear some which I'm okay with)
Rear toe: 2.0 to 2.5mm toe-in per side (with rear toe eccentric dials at or near that of the rear camber eccentrics dials)
Ride height: at OEM spec or 5mm lower. Personally I prefer not going too much lower for street/track use to maximize suspension travel range rather than for racier look.
Sway bars: front bar at either one from full stiff or one from full soft, one hole stiffer front provides better steering feel in my opinion and is safer for spirited street in keeping the rear from stepping out, rear bar middle hole.
There's lot of ways to can go about setting up for spirited street driving that the driver will be happy with, since usually the grip limit is not approached as often as for track use. Also driver preference on feel is a factor.
For me, I'd go this way on RE11 tires-
Front camber: -1.8 to -2.0(max out negative camber via strut tower slots with front top plates at OEM orientation, then add LCA shims as necessary)
Front toe: either zero or 1mm toe-in per side(zero turns in better but 1mm toe-in requires less steering correction for road crowning, could go toe-out for even sharper turning in but should have DSC module to stabalize damping when running toe-out with stock shocks/springs).
Rear camber: -2.0 to -2.2 (with rear camber eccentric dials at or near OEM position, at around -2.0 the rear stability is good but compromises tire wear some which I'm okay with)
Rear toe: 2.0 to 2.5mm toe-in per side (with rear toe eccentric dials at or near that of the rear camber eccentrics dials)
Ride height: at OEM spec or 5mm lower. Personally I prefer not going too much lower for street/track use to maximize suspension travel range rather than for racier look.
Sway bars: front bar at either one from full stiff or one from full soft, one hole stiffer front provides better steering feel in my opinion and is safer for spirited street in keeping the rear from stepping out, rear bar middle hole.
12-12-2016, 09:52 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
several months ago I started at local PCA DE, and did adjust alignment as per Tom specs and think is the perfect for street/track. Also installed the DSC for better response. In my opinion we are lucky to have Tom at this forum, to provide us with all his expertise.