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Were there any other symptoms that you can remember. Motor running, did it make any unusual sounds? I can only imaging if you didn't need to change the oil what could have happened. Glad ya caught it.
Keep us posted.
Not at all. The only symptom was the glitter in the oil. If I didn't catch, I assume the pump would eventually stop working and I would have brake issues and/or bigger metal shavings could go into the engine causing a failure.
Originally Posted by Robocop305
So that rubbing is what caused the glitter in the oil? What was the fix? Thanks
That's the only thing I can think of. Last time I used the car was on track and everything was normal (aside from suspension that needs dialing - see below). I'll order the pump today, replace it and change the oil 2-3 times after letting the engine run for ~10min.
But according to the first post the pump is not exposed to the oiling system or the engine internals. How did the shavings from the pump got inside the engine? Maybe someone in the know can chime in.
But according to the first post the pump is not exposed to the oiling system or the engine internals. How did the shavings from the pump got inside the engine? Maybe someone in the know can chime in.
It is exposed. I believe he corrected the info in a later post. It’s the engine oil that lubes the pump. When I removed the cover, a lot of oil came out.
So no more shavings in the oil? Did replacing the faulty pump fix the metal in the oil? Im surprised you don’t hear about this issue in the forum. I wonder what causes this issue?
Last edited by Robocop305; 03-09-2021 at 11:43 PM.
But according to the first post the pump is not exposed to the oiling system or the engine internals. How did the shavings from the pump got inside the engine? Maybe someone in the know can chime in.
Oil is allowed to go into the pump via a hollow drivers side exhaust camshaft bolt. There is however no pathway for the oil from the pump to go back to the engine. I don't see how any metal shavings from the pump could contaminate the oil in the engine.
What about when the engine is turned off. Could oil from he pump slowly drain back into the tank.
This makes me want to do a preventative change not he vacuum pump. Also why is it so pricy. Looks like the same one on my cayenne and that was only $149.
So no more shavings in the oil? Did replacing the faulty pump fix the metal in the oil? Im surprised you don’t hear about this issue in the forum. I wonder what causes this issue?
I'm still waiting for the new pump, but I don't see why it wouldn't resolve the issue since my car has no other symtoms. Why it went bad is a good question.
Originally Posted by powdrhound
Oil is allowed to go into the pump via a hollow drivers side exhaust camshaft bolt. There is however no pathway for the oil from the pump to go back to the engine. I don't see how any metal shavings from the pump could contaminate the oil in the engine.
This doesn't make sense to me. If oil is allowed in, it has to be allowed out. Otherwise oil that goes in and fill the cavity would never be replaced/renewed. Also due to thermal expansion/contraction, it has to be able to bleed back.
I took another look at the pump I removed and you can see the oil feed port in the center and a return check valve. This check valve is a very thin flap that opens to allow the oil to return. These cavities communicate with the same oil chamber that lubricates the cam actuators (sealed by the green o-ring on the pump housing). Shavings from the vacuum pump would have the same pathway into the engine as shaving from camshaft actuator bolts backing out. Another point that adds to my understanding is that we can see wear (material removal) on the vacuum pump cover, but there are basically no shavings on the pump itself, which means they were flushed out somewhere.
I'm still waiting for the new pump, but I don't see why it wouldn't resolve the issue since my car has no other symtoms. Why it went bad is a good question.
This doesn't make sense to me. If oil is allowed in, it has to be allowed out. Otherwise oil that goes in and fill the cavity would never be replaced/renewed. Also due to thermal expansion/contraction, it has to be able to bleed back.
I took another look at the pump I removed and you can see the oil feed port in the center and a return check valve. This check valve is a very thin flap that opens to allow the oil to return. These cavities communicate with the same oil chamber that lubricates the cam actuators (sealed by the green o-ring on the pump housing). Shavings from the vacuum pump would have the same pathway into the engine as shaving from camshaft actuator bolts backing out. Another point that adds to my understanding is that we can see wear (material removal) on the vacuum pump cover, but there are basically no shavings on the pump itself, which means they were flushed out somewhere.
That appears to be the 7.2 pump which is totally different from the 7.1 version. Maybe I didn't look at it hard enough but I did not see an oil return path for the 7.1 pump. I'll take another look when I get a chance.
That appears to be the 7.2 pump which is totally different from the 7.1 version. Maybe I didn't look at it hard enough but I did not see an oil return path for the 7.1 pump. I'll take another look when I get a chance.
Sounds good. Yeah, they might be different, but the logic of requiring a oil return path still applies so you can renew the oil in that cavity and allow for thermal expansion.
03-09-2021, 07:37 AM
