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Clutch Issue - Any thoughts to cause

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Old 05-17-2015, 01:51 PM
  #31  
FJSeattle
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Is it only when you come in hot?

Try burping your clutch line.
Old 05-17-2015, 02:04 PM
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PorscheG96
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Yea, that sounds like fluid boiling...
Old 05-17-2015, 03:08 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by FJSeattle
Is it only when you come in hot?

Try burping your clutch line.
Originally Posted by PorscheG96
Yea, that sounds like fluid boiling...
Its when I come in hot, but will still be in this condition after car has sat for a couple hours and cooled down.

Clutch fluid is Endless and it was bled when I had the release bearing and guide tube replaced. Action on the slave cylinder was checked and it is fine. I bleed the clutch every tranny fluid change (6-8 track days).

I will have it checked again, however.
Old 05-17-2015, 03:13 PM
  #34  
szakool
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Spyerx, i had a similar issue. From time to time car would get stuck in gear after parking. engine off then on and it would release. No other symptoms (grindning, slipping etc).

At first Porsche Zentrum changed shifter cables - no change. Then after some push they agreed to replace complete clutch with pressure plate and flywheel, under warranty. Since then it's perfect, also the clutch feels lighter.

Hope it helps.
Old 05-17-2015, 03:59 PM
  #35  
PorscheG96
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Originally Posted by Spyerx

Its when I come in hot, but will still be in this condition after car has sat for a couple hours and cooled down.

Clutch fluid is Endless and it was bled when I had the release bearing and guide tube replaced. Action on the slave cylinder was checked and it is fine. I bleed the clutch every tranny fluid change (6-8 track days).

I will have it checked again, however.
Endless wet point is close to 400 which can def boil. How fresh is the fluid? Bleeding doesn't prevent boil obviously, it just purges air until next boil. Try fresh fluid before paying for clutch R&R.
Old 05-17-2015, 06:41 PM
  #36  
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Dumb question. What would get hot enough to cause the clutch fluid to boil? That doesn't sound right. I have about 30 hard track days on my 4.0 clutch without any issues whatsoever. I am using the 4.0 parts except I have the Sachs Motorsport 764 890NM pressure plate which is the strongest plate Sachs makes. I also have the Cup shifter and cables. Last time my clutch was bled was 4 years ago. I inspected the clutch a few months ago when my engine was out for a rebuild all the clutch components looked brand new. You must have had a defective part. My shop recently had a couple of brand new Sachs pressure plates and they were warped right out of the box. It happens..
Old 05-17-2015, 07:11 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by PorscheG96
Endless wet point is close to 400 which can def boil. How fresh is the fluid? Bleeding doesn't prevent boil obviously, it just purges air until next boil. Try fresh fluid before paying for clutch R&R.
Very fresh, as I stated I bleed the clutch when i replace fluid, every 6 track days which for me is about every 2-3 months.

Originally Posted by szakool
Spyerx, i had a similar issue. From time to time car would get stuck in gear after parking. engine off then on and it would release. No other symptoms (grindning, slipping etc).

At first Porsche Zentrum changed shifter cables - no change. Then after some push they agreed to replace complete clutch with pressure plate and flywheel, under warranty. Since then it's perfect, also the clutch feels lighter.

Hope it helps.
Yep, appreciate that. My clutch action was sweet then with the guide tube/TOB went it sucked, and just replacing those the action is sweet/light again.

Originally Posted by powdrhound
Dumb question. What would get hot enough to cause the clutch fluid to boil? That doesn't sound right. I have about 30 hard track days on my 4.0 clutch without any issues whatsoever. I am using the 4.0 parts except I have the Sachs Motorsport 764 890NM pressure plate which is the strongest plate Sachs makes. I also have the Cup shifter and cables. Last time my clutch was bled was 4 years ago. I inspected the clutch a few months ago when my engine was out for a rebuild all the clutch components looked brand new. You must have had a defective part. My shop recently had a couple of brand new Sachs pressure plates and they were warped right out of the box. It happens..
Appreciate that pointer. I am thinking you may be right... Mine are all porsche original 4.0 parts, maybe this 4.0 PP is crap.

Anyway, it's not silly $ to drop the tranny and replace the PP.
Old 05-17-2015, 10:03 PM
  #38  
Ur20v
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Heat can come from a CRB sticking and not releasing/retracting fully especailly if its bad enough to allow clutch slip.... will also account for failed CRB bearings...
Old 06-06-2015, 02:44 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by sharkster
Always mate! Want it to get sorted
Well one new clutch later and all is sorted for me and the new clutch feels a tad lighter.
Fitted this bad boy which is simply awesome apart from reverse gear HTF do you engage reverse ? It is nigh on impossible, my technique seems to be (righthand drive remember) hold collar up with left hand and violently shove lever to the left and up it usually goes in after the third attempt but a bit of a PIA for a DD

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Old 06-07-2015, 12:02 AM
  #40  
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Sounds like adjustment out on the cables?
Old 09-14-2015, 02:37 AM
  #41  
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Since I hate when people post issues and don't follow up... I'm finally following up.

Shop replaced all clutch components (EVERYTHING) and shift action was a mess. Ended up being a bad, brand new factory pressure plate. All new everything again and clutch action if perfect. Ran car on track for 3 hours this weekend in 100+ weather and not one single issue shifting.

My suggestion on these cars is if you're getting funky shift action, just replace EVERYTHING or you'll probably be dropping the tranny again.
Old 09-14-2015, 11:46 AM
  #42  
ShakeNBake
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Originally Posted by Spyerx
Since I hate when people post issues and don't follow up... I'm finally following up.

Shop replaced all clutch components (EVERYTHING) and shift action was a mess. Ended up being a bad, brand new factory pressure plate. All new everything again and clutch action if perfect. Ran car on track for 3 hours this weekend in 100+ weather and not one single issue shifting.

My suggestion on these cars is if you're getting funky shift action, just replace EVERYTHING or you'll probably be dropping the tranny again.
As it happens, my brand new 4.0 clutch (that I installed as a preventative maintenance measure while the RMS was being repaired and transmission was being rebuilt) with 3 laps at COTA exploded in a blaze of glory. Shop thinks it was a faulty unit - PCNA will not warranty because happened at the track. Shop is stepping up to help with the repair.

Me thinks Porsche has moved on and doesn't care much about making this system work better or policing the supplier.
Old 09-14-2015, 01:17 PM
  #43  
Spyerx
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FK.

So my shop does a lot of big horsepower turbo cars - they use the 4.0 setup in the NA cars, but have been using a few different setups for the turbos.

If this one goes to crap soon - I may give one of those a try. Knock on wood so far so good, the track I was on doesn't have near the shifting of cota, mostly 2-3-4 and mostly 3rd... but it was very hot and I was being pretty aggressive with it.

You want me to find out what they're using?
Old 09-14-2015, 11:03 PM
  #44  
ShakeNBake
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Originally Posted by Spyerx
FK.

So my shop does a lot of big horsepower turbo cars - they use the 4.0 setup in the NA cars, but have been using a few different setups for the turbos.

If this one goes to crap soon - I may give one of those a try. Knock on wood so far so good, the track I was on doesn't have near the shifting of cota, mostly 2-3-4 and mostly 3rd... but it was very hot and I was being pretty aggressive with it.

You want me to find out what they're using?
TexasRS has been through this journey with carbon clutches form a certain supplier to the tune several grey hairs, there is no other solution save for a true racing clutch, which is not streetable.
Old 09-16-2015, 01:07 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
TexasRS has been through this journey with carbon clutches form a certain supplier to the tune several grey hairs, there is no other solution save for a true racing clutch, which is not streetable.
So if/when mine blows maybe i'm a guinea pig for some new options.

Do you know which TexasRS tried?


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