Time Sert Rear Calliper Question
12-17-2015, 03:24 PM
#46
Drifting
so... how many of you guys thoroughly inspect your suspension components, ball joints, control arms, etc after each event or day? I know a lot of people take tech with a sort of cavalier attitude, but there is a reason I get up under my car after EVERY event and clean the hell out of it. By putting your hands on all these components and inspecting them you find things before they become real problems. One of the shop guys was talking about his time on a pro motorsports team, total grunt work, clean the **** out of the car after every session (the underside). The reason? not looking pretty but looking for issues.
12-17-2015, 05:24 PM
#48
Drifting
A few learnings from my experience. It took me a little over 8 hours to do all 4 corners, install new pads and rotors and clean up. First 3 hours were learning by making mistakes that you should avoid by reading below. Informational and educational purposes only, not responsible if you screw up. 
Rent the 1/2" chuck right angle 7.5 amp motor Makita drill from home depot, 12 bucks for 4 hours. It gives you clearance to drill the holes in the rear since you can't turn the upright outwards like the front. http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck...0LR/index.html
Take off your rotor, you will have much more room and visibility to drill and tap etc.
When you use the counterbore bit (2nd step) push HARD into the hole to make sure the lip you are cutting is full depth.
When you're threading the hole with the tap make sure you go the full length of the tap, it won't hurt anything since the back of the upright is hollow but if you don't tap it deep enough you won't be able to get the timesert in all the way and that would cause a big headache. Use a decent size tap handle, I started it with a ratcheting 10mm wrench and a larger tap handle once it was started. My arms are sore today.
Make sure you thread the timesert onto the driver as far as you can by hand before attempting to install it in the hole. Oil up the driver bit so it doesn't get lodged on the inside of the timesert and make it hard to back the driver out once the timesert is installed.
When you use the driver to thread the timesert into the tapped hole make sure you run the driver the full length to ensure the threads are fully seated. You will feel resistance and when it has fully set it it should be very easy to turn the driver, almost no resistance then you can back it out. If you didn't thread the hole completely straight you may have a very very minor lip poking out from the edge of the hole. When you torque the bolt down it will flatten the lip and make it flush.
Rent the 1/2" chuck right angle 7.5 amp motor Makita drill from home depot, 12 bucks for 4 hours. It gives you clearance to drill the holes in the rear since you can't turn the upright outwards like the front. http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck...0LR/index.html
Take off your rotor, you will have much more room and visibility to drill and tap etc.
When you use the counterbore bit (2nd step) push HARD into the hole to make sure the lip you are cutting is full depth.
When you're threading the hole with the tap make sure you go the full length of the tap, it won't hurt anything since the back of the upright is hollow but if you don't tap it deep enough you won't be able to get the timesert in all the way and that would cause a big headache. Use a decent size tap handle, I started it with a ratcheting 10mm wrench and a larger tap handle once it was started. My arms are sore today.
Make sure you thread the timesert onto the driver as far as you can by hand before attempting to install it in the hole. Oil up the driver bit so it doesn't get lodged on the inside of the timesert and make it hard to back the driver out once the timesert is installed.
When you use the driver to thread the timesert into the tapped hole make sure you run the driver the full length to ensure the threads are fully seated. You will feel resistance and when it has fully set it it should be very easy to turn the driver, almost no resistance then you can back it out. If you didn't thread the hole completely straight you may have a very very minor lip poking out from the edge of the hole. When you torque the bolt down it will flatten the lip and make it flush.
Last edited by CosmosMpower; 12-17-2015 at 05:39 PM.
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