To strip or not
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
To strip or not
Hey gang,
An old discussion I'm sure and am contemplating my next steps. Situation is I have a 07 GT3 fairly well setup for DEs. Alignment, LSD, PFC brakes, bar, seats, harness, rear locking plate bits, Sharkwerk bypass, fire suppression.
My race group has several purpose built race cars, all stripped, and setup. Because they have >500lb savings they are just quicker and get a few secs per lap on me. I weighed in at 3410 with 1/8 tank gas and me (180).
Questions-
What can I expect with a reasonable investment- assume cage is needed?
If done correctly how bad does this screw resell?
If an older Cup made sense from a running cost that would be already done/built.
I'm currently just trailering to events BUT using in street from time to time is nice.
Maybe just need a proper race car and out GT3 to stock...
An old discussion I'm sure and am contemplating my next steps. Situation is I have a 07 GT3 fairly well setup for DEs. Alignment, LSD, PFC brakes, bar, seats, harness, rear locking plate bits, Sharkwerk bypass, fire suppression.
My race group has several purpose built race cars, all stripped, and setup. Because they have >500lb savings they are just quicker and get a few secs per lap on me. I weighed in at 3410 with 1/8 tank gas and me (180).
Questions-
What can I expect with a reasonable investment- assume cage is needed?
If done correctly how bad does this screw resell?
If an older Cup made sense from a running cost that would be already done/built.
I'm currently just trailering to events BUT using in street from time to time is nice.
Maybe just need a proper race car and out GT3 to stock...
#2
Rennlist Member
buy mooty 996. It's ready to go.
#3
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
if you stripped, no resell
if you tried to put a back after stripped, you are wasting your time.
if you want a cup car, get one. if you are THINKING about a cup, as a multiple cup car owner, i can flat you tell you, you cannot afford it. cup drivers dont think, they just buy, then pay, pay, pay and pay more. but it's fun. NOTHING comes close.
done right? then you need tony cage. thats' 6000 min. if you want int stripped and painted. you seen my hippie, the int paint and cage is over 10k. that's JUST THE PAINT AND CAGE
daniel has a 996gt3. just buy the silver POS in my warehouse and spare yourself the headache.
if you tried to put a back after stripped, you are wasting your time.
if you want a cup car, get one. if you are THINKING about a cup, as a multiple cup car owner, i can flat you tell you, you cannot afford it. cup drivers dont think, they just buy, then pay, pay, pay and pay more. but it's fun. NOTHING comes close.
done right? then you need tony cage. thats' 6000 min. if you want int stripped and painted. you seen my hippie, the int paint and cage is over 10k. that's JUST THE PAINT AND CAGE
daniel has a 996gt3. just buy the silver POS in my warehouse and spare yourself the headache.
#4
Drifting
buy a race car.
enjoy the gt3 for what it is.
a street car that from time to time it can be taken to the track to be enjoyed.
i'm currently looking at open wheel race car.
Formula mazada/ford/renault.... thanks to kas
enjoy the gt3 for what it is.
a street car that from time to time it can be taken to the track to be enjoyed.
i'm currently looking at open wheel race car.
Formula mazada/ford/renault.... thanks to kas
#5
Rennlist Member
I don't think "modding" or "stripping" can be used in the same sentence as "investment".
You spend $5k stripping/track-readying the car today. It'll cost you $15k to revert to stock before you sell. And you'll drive this stripper as if it were a cup. Meaning more wear and tear the whole nine yards. How do I know? Went through two 997s that way and I was too stupid to know it the second time around.
Market for a stripper is extremely limited. A few good guys here have gone through monster 997 track builds only to prove that point down the road.
Like others said, buy a race car if you wanna go exteme...
You spend $5k stripping/track-readying the car today. It'll cost you $15k to revert to stock before you sell. And you'll drive this stripper as if it were a cup. Meaning more wear and tear the whole nine yards. How do I know? Went through two 997s that way and I was too stupid to know it the second time around.
Market for a stripper is extremely limited. A few good guys here have gone through monster 997 track builds only to prove that point down the road.
Like others said, buy a race car if you wanna go exteme...
#6
Drifting
I don't think "modding" or "stripping" can be used in the same sentence as "investment".
You spend $5k stripping/track-readying the car today. It'll cost you $15k to revert to stock before you sell. And you'll drive this stripper as if it were a cup. Meaning more wear and tear the whole nine yards. How do I know? Went through two 997s that way and I was too stupid to know it the second time around.
Market for a stripper is extremely limited. A few good guys here have gone through monster 997 track builds only to prove that point down the road.
Like others said, buy a race car if you wanna go exteme...
You spend $5k stripping/track-readying the car today. It'll cost you $15k to revert to stock before you sell. And you'll drive this stripper as if it were a cup. Meaning more wear and tear the whole nine yards. How do I know? Went through two 997s that way and I was too stupid to know it the second time around.
Market for a stripper is extremely limited. A few good guys here have gone through monster 997 track builds only to prove that point down the road.
Like others said, buy a race car if you wanna go exteme...
THIS.
Once you have a race car all street iterations seem soft..
You'll spend too much money trying to make your car into a race car and still not be there..
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#8
If you want a track only car sell yours (probably get 90k plus) and get mooty's 996 or the one just listed. You'll keep up with your buddies and have money in the bank for more go fast goodies and better rubber.
#9
Nordschleife Master
A cup and a GT3 are commonly referred to as close to the same car
Reality is they are apples to oranges
If you are moving to racing..buy something you can afford to plow into the wall and be ok with it..all race cars eventually crash
Operating / maintaining a cup is $5k an hour for a 997..not including wading it up..and they cost a small fortune to fix
That being said, cups are fun..but slower older cars are fun too. I have the privilege of racing both..but I only own an old car
Reality is they are apples to oranges
If you are moving to racing..buy something you can afford to plow into the wall and be ok with it..all race cars eventually crash
Operating / maintaining a cup is $5k an hour for a 997..not including wading it up..and they cost a small fortune to fix
That being said, cups are fun..but slower older cars are fun too. I have the privilege of racing both..but I only own an old car
#10
Nordschleife Master
That's an easy way to prematurely wear out a perfectly good street car suspension
Street cars belong on street tires
#11
Buy a full race car instead
#12
Rennlist Member
A cup and a GT3 are commonly referred to as close to the same car
Reality is they are apples to oranges
If you are moving to racing..buy something you can afford to plow into the wall and be ok with it..all race cars eventually crash
Operating / maintaining a cup is $5k an hour for a 997..not including wading it up..and they cost a small fortune to fix
That being said, cups are fun..but slower older cars are fun too. I have the privilege of racing both..but I only own an old car
Reality is they are apples to oranges
If you are moving to racing..buy something you can afford to plow into the wall and be ok with it..all race cars eventually crash
Operating / maintaining a cup is $5k an hour for a 997..not including wading it up..and they cost a small fortune to fix
That being said, cups are fun..but slower older cars are fun too. I have the privilege of racing both..but I only own an old car
996 cup is lighter so it'll chew like for like pads and tires slower
People who say this I find are in one of two camps
1. They went from warranty GT3 to Cup and also went from NT01s to slicks and racing
2. They dont actually time out wheel bearings and other **** on GT3 they should be
What am I missing here? If you pound on a GT3 street car why shouldnt it be precisely the same cost?
If you actually do apples to apples cost here I would imagine 996 cup is cheaper
#13
Rennlist Member
cup requires 100 oct that's one thing and you'd have to alter full suspension setup to drive on non-slicks (rake, etc)
Driven like for like they should be maintained like for like
Most people don't maintain their street gt3 like for like race car, even when driving with slicks and at near or the same speeds as a race car. That's an issue.
Driven like for like they should be maintained like for like
Most people don't maintain their street gt3 like for like race car, even when driving with slicks and at near or the same speeds as a race car. That's an issue.
#14
Considering the cost of new slicks (approx 2K per set), race fuel and maybe brakes what else factors in the estimated cost of 5K per hr to run a Cup car?
Interested to know.
Ranger
Interested to know.
Ranger
#15
Rennlist Member
--track support (labor)
--deferred funds per hour for engine, tranny, suspension, axle time-outs
--general maintenance per event (oil/tranny/alignments/etc)
--pads/rotors
--tires
If i recall total it was closer to 3k/day (which with typical DE is about 1.5k/hr). Full on completive top level PCA / POC club racing goes higher.