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Were you able to get it replaced on a car that's been tracked?
Last w/e I got a check engine light. A tech at the track put the diagnostics tool on it. It showed a cat efficiency code. Which he said means it's failing. My exhaust is stock except the side mufflers are removed. I'm still in the 8/80,000 emissions warranty.
I don't know about track because I'm not the first owner (but I bet it has been, most GT3's have been) but yeah, my car had a cat fail, passenger side. I feel within the federal 8/80k and they replaced it, but just the bad side.
They will probably try to blame it on your O2 sensor first. That's what they did in my case.
My passenger side headers are an awful lot shiner than my drivers side ones. Haha.
Oh, one last thing since I saw that your exhaust is modified, mine was fully stock.
Last edited by LateBraking; 04-01-2015 at 01:59 PM.
check the post-cat O2 sensor first, then the cat.
Yes they can fail.
Yep, definitely can be the O2 sensor. OP, let me know if you're in SoCal, I have a spare O2 sensor you can borrow to see if that solves it. I had my old O2 sensor replaced with a new one during troubleshooting for this code and turned out that it was the cat, so I'm pretty sure that the spare sensor I have was/is functional.
Might save you time and money to see if the code goes away after plugging in the spare sensor I have.
Yep, definitely can be the O2 sensor. OP, let me know if you're in SoCal, I have a spare O2 sensor you can borrow to see if that solves it. I had my old O2 sensor replaced with a new one during troubleshooting for this code and turned out that it was the cat, so I'm pretty sure that the spare sensor I have was/is functional.
Might save you time and money to see if the code goes away after plugging in the spare sensor I have.
Another option if you're getting the code on only one side is to clear the code with Durametric/other then swap them side to side to see if the code reappears on the same side (bad cat) or switches to the other side (bad O2 sensor). Very accessible and easy to swap.
The good news about post-cat O2 sensors is that they report status only, they do not adjust the ECU. Pre-cat O2 sensors do.
I don't know about track because I'm not the first owner (but I bet it has been, most GT3's have been) but yeah, my car had a cat fail, passenger side. I feel within the federal 8/80k and they replaced it, but just the bad side.[/QU
Oh, one last thing since I saw that your exhaust is modified, mine was fully stock.
Originally Posted by Spyerx
check the post-cat O2 sensor first, then the cat.
Yes they can fail.
Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I cracked all mine, make OEM and bring to dealer for new one.
Originally Posted by LateBraking
Yep, definitely can be the O2 sensor. OP, let me know if you're in SoCal, I have a spare O2 sensor you can borrow to see if that solves it. I had my old O2 sensor replaced with a new one during troubleshooting for this code and turned out that it was the cat, so I'm pretty sure that the spare sensor I have was/is functional.
Might save you time and money to see if the code goes away after plugging in the spare sensor I have.
Originally Posted by RedRSA
Another option if you're getting the code on only one side is to clear the code with Durametric/other then swap them side to side to see if the code reappears on the same side (bad cat) or switches to the other side (bad O2 sensor). Very accessible and easy to swap.
The good news about post-cat O2 sensors is that they report status only, they do not adjust the ECU. Pre-cat O2 sensors do.
the tech told me there were three to 4 codes. One of them was O2 sensor but when he saw the cat efficiency code he just flat out said go buy some aftermarket headers w/o cats(he knows I never street drive the car). I didn't question him but maybe I should try sensors?? It was only on one side.
If it is the header/cat I'm not sure I have the energy to put everything back to stock and hope the dealer will warranty. Plus they forgot to charge me for mounting and balancing three tires week before last. Maybe I should just buy headers and forget about it
the tech told me there were three to 4 codes. One of them was O2 sensor but when he saw the cat efficiency code he just flat out said go buy some aftermarket headers w/o cats(he knows I never street drive the car). I didn't question him but maybe I should try sensors?? It was only on one side.
If it is the header/cat I'm not sure I have the energy to put everything back to stock and hope the dealer will warranty. Plus they forgot to charge me for mounting and balancing three tires week before last. Maybe I should just buy headers and forget about it
Might be worth at least checking to see if it's the O2 sensors or not. Also, if you ever do sell the car, it'll at least be easier to have stock headers than it will be to find them. Just another consideration.
I don't know about track because I'm not the first owner (but I bet it has been, most GT3's have been) but yeah, my car had a cat fail, passenger side. I feel within the federal 8/80k and they replaced it, but just the bad side. They will probably try to blame it on your O2 sensor first. That's what they did in my case. My passenger side headers are an awful lot shiner than my drivers side ones. Haha. Oh, one last thing since I saw that your exhaust is modified, mine was fully stock.
you were right. They said it was the oxygen sensor which they warrantied. 80 miles later I'm getting the cat efficiency code. Taking it back tomorrow hopefully for a new header.
Timely thread. I just had my CEL yellow light appear this afternoon. My local indie shop plugged in and read the code: second bank cat is going bad (or something to that effect). They ended up resetting the light and told me that if/when it comes on again, to contact dealer. The car has 25,000 miles, a Sharky bypass, and has seen a fair amount of track days.
So, do I need to return to stock prior to visiting the dealer? I do not have a very good relationship with my local dealer.
Timely thread. I just had my CEL yellow light appear this afternoon. My local indie shop plugged in and read the code: second bank cat is going bad (or something to that effect). They ended up resetting the light and told me that if/when it comes on again, to contact dealer. The car has 25,000 miles, a Sharky bypass, and has seen a fair amount of track days.
So, do I need to return to stock prior to visiting the dealer? I do not have a very good relationship with my local dealer.
Thanks,
Mike
I can't imagine that just a Sharky would cause a problem but it wouldn't take long to change that out just to help your chances if you still have the oem muffler. The bumper cover comes off in 10 minutes.
I think so much of it is how good the dealer is and how good the relationship is. I took my car in this morning. I was too lazy to put everything back to stock so I'm just crossing my fingers. The service advisor seemed to say if no range 3 then it should be ok.
.2 and had a CEL showing cat inefficiency at a track event. We cleared it with Durametric and went away for a month or so. Came back again, took it to dealer and they confirmed same code and replaced it, no questions asked.
04-01-2015, 01:38 PM
Anybody had OEM cat failure?
