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I see some interesting bits here & there on several different threads- wanted to get a "trailer" thread.
Having just acquired an all-aluminum 24 enclosed trailer- looking for best ideas on how to customize/setup for hauling the GT3.
Ideas of great interest:
- lots of e-track (high and low)
- using aluminum shoring beams, locked into e-track above the car for wheel rack
- lower level e-track for securing fuel jugs, jack
-upper level e-track to secure race ramps in the rear of the trailer.
- rennline hooks on bottom of car (front & rear)
- winch to load car (with long remote cable- this came with the trailer)
Challenge I have (looking for ideas)
- the Gt3 is so low, hard for ratchets to fit under lip spoiler to crank down to tie downs. Is it advisable to run the car up on something (front wheels) (i.e. a 2x4 piece) to get clearance for ratchet straps?
- with the wieght distribution of the GT3, seems like we have to run the car pretty far forward to get adequate tongue weight? is it better to maybe load the car backwards?
- anyone run a strip of LED lights along the floor to make it easier to see under the car when tieing it down?
Other tips/suggestions on a killer trailer set up?
I used to trailer my GT3 back in the States quite a bit at one point using a Cayenne & an enclosed Trailex. KISS always works best IMO. For tie downs the Rennline stuff is really nice. If you attach your ratchet straps to these once the car is in the air on the ramps you just have to bend down a bit instead of laying on dirty, scorching hot pavement some where. Remote powered winches are also really nice making it a one person job no problem. My car is lowered but with the front axle life I never had a problem getting it started on the ramp. I never back it in, no need to IMO. After that if you want to get fancy with all kinds of cute stuff (stow away BBQ's, generators, pop up tents, etc....) sky is the limit as many on this forum can attest to. Good Luck!
We started with a bare 24' featherlite and built it out. It turned out pretty well. I like using the recessed floor rings that featherlite uses, along with adding a couple more for ease of tie down depending on the car you have in the trailer rather than etrack as a smooth floor to walk on without stepping on that stuff is nice. We use the black carpeted industrial floor mats on the floor which is nice when it is wet out so you don't slip on the slick floor. I think we are going to add some grip tape to the rear door as walking up that incline in the rain is dangerous.
Added 30amp outlets for shore power. We use a rollout generator when we can't get plugged into shore power which plugs in here as well. On the inside we added a ton of lights and outlets for running laptops, radios, coffee maker, whatever is needed. Wouldn't believe how many friends show up with dead cell phone batteries and need a place to plug in, lol.
2nd one will be for running AC which we will add to the trailer this winter.
We chose to put a harbor freight rollout toolbox in the front instead of permanent cabinets. It is really nice to roll the box out to the car when working on it, rather than having to go back and forth between the trailer for every little socket or tool. Air compressor mounted in the corner. We also prefer to use the larger 15 gallon fuel jugs with pumps as they are much more stable in the trailer when towing. We don't even strap them down anymore, they won't move unless you put the trailer on it's top, and well, everything is coming down at that point. The downside is they are a bit heavy and while one person can move them, two works better. I hate messing with 5 gallon cans anymore. Various hooks and such for hanging hoses/cords, etc. The AC compressor has hose run up over the top channel above the door all the way to the rear door where there is 50 feet to reach out the back, to the tow vehicle, race car, trailer tires, etc. Piece of advice, even when you have the generator, charge your air compressor before leaving town, you never know when you need to add air to a tire. Having a mount for a small garbage can is also very nice.
Race for suits and helmets and fold up chairs. Really you can accomplish the same thing with a cable attached to two points on the rafters and hang your stuff from there. It was free, so we used it.
More hooks for straps, air hose, funnels, etc.
Added a lot of halogen lights. Camera screws it up, but it is nice and bright in the trailer.
And wired in 4 outlet plugs throughout the trailer.
Fold down tables here and there.
Tire gauge holder above the compressor....how often do you lose your damn tire gauge? Not anymore, it is always right there.
The rubbermaid fold out tables are really nice too. Strap them against the wall when in transport. And of course have shelves for fluids. Oil, windex, spare pads, cleaners, whatever you might need.
uses LEDs for lighting- less power and the heat from 500w halogens will set fire to your hair! Plus too bright that the shadows are to much of a contrast to see properly.
I have had mine since 2002 and it still works like a champ. It will hold just about all the tools you will need to work on a car at the track. About the only piece it doesn't have room for that I have found is specialty parts like a wheel bearing puller, clutch tools, etc. Every socket, wrenches, hammers, small specialty tools all fit. It is east to roll in and out of the the trailer instead of a big tool box. It is pricey but takes up a small amount of space compared with the amount of tools inside of it.
I think you have the right idea on setup. I did a pretty similar design on my 24' enclosed: airline track, one set high and another set low; rolling toolbox so that I could bring my tools next to the car if needed; Rennline tow hooks; etc.
On the toolbox, be sure to secure it well to the wall. I also run a small strap vertically over the drawers to keep them from opening.
As for loading a GT3, I load mine nose first but I do have to bring it pretty far forward to get the trailer weight balance right. I weighed my trailer at a CAT scale and I also have a trailer tongue weight scale, so I know exactly what my weights are. With the GT3 loaded 2' from the rear of the trailer, it actually REMOVED some tongue weight, so I leave at least 4' in back now. It also tows more stable this way, although it wasn't bad before. If I really needed the room up front, I would load the GT3 in backwards.
You mentioned installing LED's on the floor to see better when strapping down. I think those would get crunched. If you really need the light, just get an LED headlamp or throw a flashlight on the ground when needed. You can find super bright ones on Amazon for around $30.
The double row of airline track / e trac provides great flexibility because you'll change your loading configuration over time as you use the trailer.
If anyone is interested, I looked at a really nice trailer prior to buying mine. It's still available and located in central ohio. It's an all aluminum 24 Rance trailer formally owned by the guy who owns Rance Trailer company- was his personal trailer. Has every feature you can imagine and some I didn't imagine. Wedge shaped nose. Cabinets with the nice ball bearing slides and catches to prevent them from accidentally opening. Full length checkered awning on oassenger side. Wired for shore power, full lighting package. 48 inch man doors on both sides. Recessed lighting along the bottom of the walls to illuminate under the car when strapping it down. Electric tongue jack. He was asking $11,000. Always stored indoors.
Send me a pm and I can pass along his contact info
Securing the Vehicle. It is really hard to beat an arrangement of logistics anchor rails attached to the trailer floor (E-trac or aircraft type). You can secure the car to the rails by its wheel/tires as follows:
- place tire bonnet strap assembly over tire
- attach anchor end of tire bonnet strap to floor rail near the tire patch
- other end of bonnet strap is an open strap, that end passes thru a 'D' ring or roller piece that locks into floor rail near other side of tire patch
- open end of strap remains below car body and goes into a strap ratchet that is located away from (clear of) the car body and secured to the floor rail or a large floor 'D' ring
The ratchets are clear of car and easy to tighten/loosen.
Here are some photos of strap over tire tread and tire bonnet strap assemblies where the ratchet can be away from car body (product photographs have ratchet located pretty close for tidy view).
Last edited by enthusiast; 10-17-2014 at 08:31 PM.
Reason: photos
10-14-2014, 12:30 PM
set-up: enclosed trailer
