flyingpenguin

Hey Tim, you can't ever be smooth enough. Not even you. :-)

flyingpenguin

Recall you thought PFC 08's were too harsh on rotors. What's the verdict on that?

ShakeNBake

After being reminded by Mr. Walker about some thermodynamics classes I took 20 years ago.....Heat is heat. Stopping the car takes a certain amount of energy and that all gets turned into heat. It's about heat cycles, not the friction material. The larger the swings in temps the more cracking. I used to think 08's were harsh on rotors, but PFC said unlikely to be the issue and more likely to be dragging pistons or too aggressive of cooling....or just going fast. They also said race teams cycle out rotors, they don't wait for them to wear out.

flyingpenguin

A good case then for removing rear brake cooling ducts..

ShakeNBake

That's what Dr. Z recommended - though I can't imagine in texas it would be a good idea. I don't feel like I have extra thermal capacity at COTA.

surlynkid

I know how to remove them in a jiffy. Don't even have to jack up the car.

24Chromium

Always take a cool down lap and try to never touch the brakes. I got into a bad habit for a while of coming in hot, in order to get accurate tire pressures & temps. Big mistake. The car ate rotors like they were snacks. If you get a black or red flag at the end of a session, then drive around the paddock or out on the road. Bottom line, they need to cool off and they need air flow in order to do so.

Texas RS

Joost,

Just catching up on the post - you are correct, that is why we have to keep going back, practice, practice, practice.

flyingpenguin

Just like golf. Much more fun though..

Texas RS

Agreed....I always said if I had to choose between golf and performance driving - golf didn't have a chance.

flyingpenguin

Come to realize I did not update this thread with the solution that is working out great. Rockauto.com sells a suitable set of CENTRICS for a staggering $105 each.

Part numbers as follows:
CENTRIC 12837054 (128.37054)
CENTRIC 12837055 (128.37055)

They have been on the car since mid-September and have at least 5 (maybe more) events on them now and not a SINGLE crack. Granted, temps have been moderate for most of the last 3 months in Texas (and this weekend was exceptionally cold and wet), but still.. The OEMS would have started to crack by now, especially with the PFC08 pads.

flyingpenguin

Part numbers listed in previous post are for 997.1 (non-center locks). For the center locks (as per ShakenBake) you need Centric's 12837076 and 12837075. THey are more expensive, but assume they last longer than the OEM's. No first hand experience to confirm that though.

CosmosMpower

Thanks for sharing! Will have to keep this in mind when it's time to replace the rotors on my 07. What front rotors are you using? Hopefully I'll see you at COTA sometime.

martinkm

I have used Centric rotors on my other vehicles with good success so I was liking the option of swapping these onto the GT3. For 2011 GT3 the front rotors are 380mm OD. The Centric part 12837076 comes up as a 350mm rotor. When I dug around in the rock auto parts catalog I came up with this:

Centric Part # 12837072 GT3/GT3 RS Front Left $645.79
Centric Part # 12837071 GT3/GT3 RS Front Right $645.79
Centric Part # 12837074 GT3/GT3 RS Rear Left $710.79
Centric Part # 12837073 GT3/GT3 RS Rear Right $710.79

I think they saw us coming..

teamscr

+1

JWJr