Johnny DB

Car is 100% street driven.

Are the dampeners stuck on to the brake pads with an adhesive? Can they be reused?

This is what I'm going to be ordering unless you tell guys tell me something is redundant or I missed something.

1.Front brake pads (OEM)
2.Rear brake pads (OEM)
3.Front caliper repair kit (replacement springs, retaining pins, and spring cotter pins)
4.Rear caliper repair kit (replacement springs, retaining pins, and spring cotter pins)
5.Rear caliper bolts (4 total)
6.Front brake pad dampening set (should have 12 in the kit)
7.Rear brake pad dampening set (should have 8 in the kit)

TIA

John Chan

I am on my 3rd set of pad and I have never refreshed any OE parts. Not sure why u need to refresh so many parts if there is no damage?
I have been tracking hard but I am not a heavy brake person.

Larry Cable

I do not believe so... and yes, but I think they are relatively cheap to replace...

I think only the caliper bolt replacements are required... you can also get the motorsport stud kit (contact craig at rennstore)

Johnny DB

Just figured new components would guarantee me everything running at 100% and as mentioned wasn't sure if the dampeners could be reused.

Johnny DB

So I guessing by "they are relatively cheap to replace" you are suggestion to do so?

I will only order the caliper bolts for the rear since the front pads can be changed without removing the caliper.

Larry Cable

caliper bolts are not reusable according to factory procedures, there are multiple threads on this topic elsewhere in the forum.

Larry Cable

have you ever driven a 911 with really squeaky brakes?

imagine the looks from other drivers as you pull up next to them at the lights or stopsign ... and they look over expecting to see an 18 wheeler or a bus and instead they see you in your 911

you have been warned!

Johnny DB

One of the reasons why I'm changing the pads is that I'm at about 6-7mm of pad thickness which is about 50%. Many have recommended changing the pads at 50% to ensure rotor life. They are also worn at an angle. The other reason is that they are very noisy and I can only get them quiet after I rinse them with the garden hose but that only works for about 30miles. I did 3 hard brakes from about 120mph and that didn't help.

How would you go about removing the glaze (assuming there is) on the rotors?

Thanks

Larry Cable

checkout these links:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

and...

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...and-procedures

not too mention...

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...eposit-removal

hope these help!

Johnny DB

Thanks for the links. Lots of useful information but not really sure if all of it applies to CCBs as well?

John Chan

I have been using the pads down to 20% front and rear. No issue. I never run pad sensor in order to run down the pads that low.
Ppl change it at 50% as a safe guard in case of the owner never watch out the taper pad issue. For the front pad, I rotate it after 5track days and the taper issue is not too bad. For the rear, no taper, just higher wear that the front pad.
I have never change caliper bolts and not sure why I cannot reuse it. With 50ftlb, I do not think I am stretching the bolt. I want someone to answer this too.

Larry Cable

forum search is your friend.

Larry Cable

certainly not those recommendations for using highly abrasive pads to remove glaze!

brake bedding etc I think are applicable.

Johnny DB

John,

Isn't the torque 63ftlb?

Are you using the stock pads? How noisy are they? How are your rotors holding up?

edwin814

Are you talking about the back plate with adhesive? If so, they come with the new OEM pads.

Either replace the caliper bolts or get the motorsport studs. I never replaced the caliper bolts on my brembo caliper on my M3, but I tracked more often and would swap between track and street pads and retorque the bolts very often, so didn't really worry about the bolt getting loose. But I ran same set of pads on RS (OEM on PCCB, then PFC08 on steel rotors) for track and street. Plus CL is a hassle. So I got the studs, knowing I'll rarely remove the wheels to check the bolts.

It's a personal preference, but I also replaced the pad sensors because they were old and brittle. Or just remove them completely.