Protocav

Hello all,
I just wanted to add some data to a topic that we discuss quite often. It has been discussed that the NT-01's are grippy all the way down to the cords and most people agree that these tires don't heat cycle either. I haven't been able to get the grip down to the cords, and I was always confused, but I think it's my fault. I run one set of wheels wrapped with NT-01's as the primary tire for street, track and autocross. The tires are absolutely fantastic for most of their life, and then the traction absolutely goes away when they become a full slick (but before I see the cords). I have read that people are getting 50 or so heat cycles out of these tires but I know that by the time my grip is gone, I have well over 100 heat cycles. This is from driving to work, running errands, etc.

I think for anyone that runs the NT-01's on a dedicated set of track wheels, you will get full traction until the tire completely disintegrates, and heat cycling will never be an issue. For those of us that run NT-01's on street and track, prepare to replace them when the tread is gone. For me, it's worth it, because I enjoy having a lot of grip on the street, as well as the track.

This is still my tire of choice, but I think I have finally learned their wear vs. heat cycling characteristics.

Izzone

Nto1 is most likely the same as ra1

The tread is a different compound of rubber than the casing

Use a durometer, when u read a higher number on tread..u are driving on casing

AudiOn19s

I drive mine to and from the track adding extra heat cycles but don't drive them around on the street so while I have more heat cycles than most I don't necessarily have as many heat cycles are you are seeing.

I somewhat agree with your observation but will add this. When they get to the point of being a full slick they absolutely have less grip when cold, and take longer than usual to come up to temperature, but once up to temp I still feel they very much have the same level of stick if not more than when they were new. I wonder if the majority of the time for you in street and auto-x application they are no longer ideal because in those settings you're not able to get proper heat into them. Just my .02

ChrisF

I'd guess its insufficient heat when they become slicks. I drive mine on street and have yet to haves set go away before the cord.

ShakeNBake

I have not had these on a 911 yet, but on my E90 M3 (and E46 for that matter), I could cord them in about 5 DE days (about 16-20 cycles) at TWS, which is a bit hard on tires. I never noticed them dropping off during that time. Any tire is going to cycle out over time, it's just a matter of how fast you use up the rubber.

DC640

after becoming slicks, i think it takes longer to heat up - thus i felt it was less grip as track temps went down toward end of the day 330pm - 5pm ish compared to prime time temp of 10am-3pm

just what I noticed.

usctrojanGT3

I have no idea how people are getting more than 30 heat cycles out of the NT01s. Mine cord after about 20-25. Am I driving that flat out?

ChrisF

...must be your dirt track experience

usctrojanGT3

I only go off when I turn the nannies off.

icatto

Hi.

I have had them completely go away with tread still left.
Like cornering in a puddle of butter.
It takes a while to get there, but when they are gone, they are gone.

mdrums

Driving NT01 from new...by the time the tread gets to slicks they are done. Its the heat cycles and not that they are slicks...you can shave NT01 to almost slicks and they are great from what I've seen at the track.

Izzone

Buy a durometer, it will answer most of ur question wether ur tire are good or not

DHI

Randy,
How do you actually use one (read and interpret values) to determine if tires still good?

CRex

+1. I have this flintstone method of taking Outer-Mid-Inner duro readings on all four corners when new (pre-install) and then establishing a range of expected readings as the tires "age". Generally I find that new rubber (R6's) are in the 60's and turn into high 70's when they begin to go. Is hardly scientific, subject to temperature changes and shows a huge variance in readings. I can't be doing this right...

Izzone

Yes all the time, I still do it on my race tires

As crex said take readings across the face of the tire...also knowing what a base line is helps a bit. The inner of a rear gt3 tire will typically be higher first before outside

If u are comparing an old tire to new tire you should make sure they are the sane temperature

Longacre sells a good one