sharkster

If you're planning to keep her a while I would suggest fixing the coolant pipes plus the two plastic elbows. If the engine is out may as well beef up the LSD so it's no longer an open diff

Yes if you want the rs lwf it can be done right there and then. All this starts to add up I know

One thing is a set of Cargraphic screens or whatnot. The factory knew they forgot something and added them for the mk2. It really sux to have some FOD cause you to loose your coolant up front...

AEsco48

Ok, lets clarify....

Thx for all the suggestions!

Car will be a my sporty car, I have a daily driver. Will take it out on nice days to the office, weekends, nights and track days....

Example of good bang for your buck... Mod that is noticeable: Ground Control Sway bars on the E46 M3. $800 made the car pretty damn flat, very noticeable.

Already has:
PFC08
Fluid
V1 (Very important)

Will be installing:
Grill screens
Rear brake cooling ducts.
Making a front brake cooling kit using two NACA ducts and 3" hose.
Got a rattle coming from pass seat belt B pillar pivot… Fix already known?
Need to research if I have the latest NAV operating system and work on getting updated maps.
Brake caliper stud kit
Screw/Pin cooling fittings

With everything OEM and flipping the front struts, what is the camber range?

Considering:
Guard LSD... Need to feel what is wrong with mine before I dive in.
Rear/front toe links/arms... What does it solve/alleviate?

Roll bar, race shells and harness will come with time. Same with track wheels, need to get a tow trailer set up.

tasman

Looks like a good list you have going. Agree with it.

Rear toe links. Helps it hold alignment better. Otherwise I would just drive it for a while before making many changes. Would hold on LSD until you have tracked it a few times so can tell the difference.

Definitely would do the coolant hoses sooner rather than later. Was on the agenda for mine this winter until I let her go. Then I would do safety stuff if you are going to track. Just my .02

AEsco48

GT3DE... What seats are those with the Red harness?

F1CrazyDriver

AesCo48,

Frankly IMO the car does not need much. I plan on doing the following.

-Spherical toe links
-Spherical dog bones
-Semi Solid motor mounts
-Good alignment


That's it....anything more then that it is over kill for a weekend toy/ less then 6 track days a year.

sharkster

And I'll swap you a bike rack for this:

mooty

GT2 seats

tcsracing1

If you are not really a track going kinda fella then the only thing you will notice in terms of bang for the buck is a sharkwerks bi-pass. Drops weight and sounds great.

996 Cup shifter cable are a great bang for the buck as you can feel them immediately. The old stock cables wear over time. Cup cables are strong and rifle bolt like action and make great a replacement.


Guard LSD is something you would only notice on the track as it eliminates the "wiggle" sensation under hard braking and puts power to both wheels which you will notice out of the corner exits.
(Easier to do a donut with working LSD too).

If you do not really track, then the GT2 seats with roll bar are just bling. Stock seats are more comfortable for daily driveing. (GT2 seats and roll bar is sexy however, even at cars n coffee)

Same goes for sway bars and rear toe links. Forget about engine and tranny mounts too. It is all just track bling that you cant see or feel on the street.

Front Rad screens are a must. Keeps crap out of your front nose and protects rads. Birds, leaves etc.

Basic Alignment for street would be wise as aggressive alignement will kill your tires on the inners (right to the cords).
Car has plenty of grip for the street. Intoxicating grip with standard alignment.
Give it a little drop to Euro ride height if you wanna look pimp on the street. Otherwise stock height will get you around town.

Calliper studs are nice if your stocks are worn or if you plan to do multiple changes each year typical of a track car. Otherwise wait until you need to replace them after they time out.

Clear corner side markers are common upgrade.

Also, get a Cup front splitter. They are cheaper then street lip and can take all kinds of abuse. Very flexable and disposable. Keep stock lip for resale time.

Brake cooling ducts are nice if you track the car. But if you upgrade to adjustable links the 997.2 rear brake ducts will no longer have anywhere to attach.

All round super fun car to own and drive. Mods are fairly easy and limited as these cars do not require much from stock.

russo

Sharky by-pass is a must, and in my opinion, the first mod you need to get. This is a great all purpose mod. Opening the soundtrack of the flat six is a great symphonic addition, period. I agree with all the previous posts on spending the money on coaching, that is where the real performance comes into play.

AEsco48

Plan is 3-6 track days per year... as time permits.

AEsco48

What camber range is available with factory hardware? (assuming toe cam be adjusted appropriately)

Whats the Euro ride height vs USA?

thx

delanobe

As a current MK1 owner I suggest the following:

Front screen (Prevents puncture of your radiators
Motorsport Rear Toe links (Helps to keep your alignment)
BBS motorsport wheels (Much lighter than oem and bling )
CGT seats (Ultimate bling and gives you more connection with your car)
Track alignment + ride height and corner balanced (Feels like a new car!)
Sharky bypass + tips (Cup car sound if you like to scare people)
weld coolant pipes (Keeps the people behind you save)

sharkster

Also for first-timers we wrote up a few articles to help you figured out what's what and what's not Remember none of this is "necessary" or required but if you do tinker then...

2010-2011 GT3RS:

http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/porsch...10-2011-a.html

2010-2011 GT3:

http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/porsch...10-2011-a.html

2007-2008 GT3RS:

http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/porsch...07-2008-a.html

2007-2008 GT3:

http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/porsch...07-2008-a.html

tcsracing1

With 3-6 track days planned you might as well go for bolt-in Roll bar and GT2 seats with Schroth harnesses.
Front screens are a must.
Front Cup splitter (great for chin scrapes around town and downforce at the track).
Sharwerks bi-pass is worth it.
Have the car lowered (close to euro), aligned and corner balanced at a proper facility. Install rear toe links to help lock in that alignment as you do not want to pay to have it aligned twice in one season.
RS29 Pagid Pads with SRF brake fluid is a must for your track experience.
996 Cup shifter cables are a notable difference in an older 997.1.
Throw for a guard LSD while you are at it. no sense going to the track only to realize that the car wiggles under hard braking. Get all the above done in one shot. That way you are turn key for the season and your local indy can have a good christmas.

You can decide at that point if you want to attempt the coolant fitting fix. I am holding out for Porsche to offer a recall. Those sons a bitches.

Anything else can be delt with next year when you are ready for bling upgrades. (Wheels, rubber delete suspension etc)