Hajo

Price pleasefor for 380mm and 350mm

bhgt2

Quote for upgrading my GT2 brakes

MovIt Brakes USA

Quotes PM'd my friends.

For those that have placed their orders for the rotors, Thank you. They are in process and the hats are being made/assembled and will ship out of Germany in a few weeks.

powdrhound

price for 380/350 GT3s please... rotors only..

jrotsaert

Quote for a full kit to replace rotors and calipers on my 2011 Spyder please
THX

TB993tt

Some more info about these products - the company which makes them is just down the road from me

http://www.surface-transforms.com/ca...php?catID=9854

Sweeper

pm please, prices of rotor and hats

thanks

modoz61

Hi All

Just did my first real run with all my tweaks added to the toy

Mov'It 380/350 combo with OEM calipers using Mov'It pads were part of the upgrades

To be clear on my choice, I run 18" wheels with slicks as in our club we have to compete with cup cars in our class so every advantage taken and with 3 delaminations of 19" slicks at speed and the manufacturer providing both a free set and a request to move back to 18" wheels the 380/350 was the way to go

Fantastic performance, no fade, great progressive pedal, totally reliable time and time again. And as Pete (Savyboy) indicated little to no wear so the total cost proposition was certainly substantiated. I had been through 3 sets of steel rotors and looking at the total ongoing spend, it made economic sense to me to go this way.

There are many unique advantages of this type of Ceramic rotor over PCCB, the best being they can be rebuilt not binned.

Unfortunately the track I was at this weekend past was a new one for me so I have no benchmark data for comparison but I do have another TD next week at my regular circuit so this will reveal more but I know I can go in a little deeper so I expect good things.

I dealt with Tom for the transaction and found him to be easy to deal with, prompt and reliable and also a great go to for sourcing other components I had been chasing, he consolidated everything and facilitated freight with everything arriving all safe and sound.

The bedding in process for the brakes is interesting I would add

15 runs for 80 kph to 20 kph using light pedal with a 1 min break after each two stopping sessions

then

15 runs from 180 kph to 50 kph with no break but not allowing temps to get above 600 Cel using increasing to full pedal

trucked the car to a drag strip (rented strip for 90 minutes) and used the run off area which was 600 mtrs long

The first runs 80 - 20 were easy. I would do two runs down the strip and then come slowly up the return road taking around the minute cooling time then off again

The high speed runs I determined to go down brake u turn then return and just keep doing u turns at either end so the runs could be very close together.

The first run 180 - 50 brought a pucker moment as the pedal went a lot further than expected and the speed diminished a lot slower than anticipated and the gravel trap loomed a lot faster than expected!!

However by the 3rd run the temps were over 400 Cel and the pedal got better and better, in the end it was astonishing how much shorter the stopping distance was getting, to the point I ended up laughing and almost playing games at where I could brake and still make the turn point

Couldn't recommend them highly enough.

IMHO

Ur20v

Good to hear shes up and running well.

Jay

modoz61

Hi Jay

Thanks

It was fantastic to get back in the chair and get some exercise, we had a ball with a road trip to and from Phillip Island over the weekend and she was flawless all the way

what other car brand could you do that with, we marvelled at that fact, we took the long way 3000 km round trip including play time at the track, everyone's car performed without a hiccup

aussie jimmy

nice work, mike!
good luck next week at the creek.

Carrera GT

I just noticed this thread and it's good to see Movit getting involved with Rennlist. I'll add my two cents' as an unsolicited and completely "no strings" endorsement for the product. These are quite simply brake rotors that don't wear. Of course, anyone who has ever driven a lap in anger knows that brakes are the definitive wear item along with tires and dampers, but we tend to run dampers ten years past their useful life, and we run tires till they're corded, then corded on the other shoulder, then run a bit further. But with brakes, we don't have the luxury of running them till they're beyond useless. Fluid boils, pads catch fire and rotors groove down till caliper pistons bind and knock-back on the straights requires a "pump" to bring the pads back to the rotors. You'd have to be a raving loon or simply have no experience in motorsport to suggest that brake rotors -- any brake rotors, ever -- don't wear. It's just not something sensible people say to each other. But there it is: these rotors don't wear.

I have a set of the 396mm front and 362 rear upgrade rotors (with caliper spacers) which did three seasons stopping an RS 3.8 running Hoosiers and turning respectable lap times. After multiple pads were burned down to the rivets, the rotors are unchanged in thickness from original spec and the surface is as if new. There's nothing more than a slight pad transfer to show where the rotors were working.

Pad material transfer brings me to the only demerit of the Movits: pads and pedal feel. While the engagement, initial bite and modulation is as good or better than PCCBs or factory steels, the one weakness is the release. I was never too dissatisfied, but it was the one thing I wanted to improve. I put it down to the front calipers flexing, which they do, and that also caused the beveled wear of the front pads. Also, Movit offers only one pad compound, which is a Pagid. Of course, the need for different pad compounds tends to go away once the rotor is not wearing and heat is not an issue, and you're not likely running these on a Cup without ABS, so given the vagaries of ABS and the Porsche road car calipers, I was happy with the one pad offered and this went in the "ain't broke" category.

I imagine eventually the rotor surface must lose a few molecules. Surely. Maybe after a couple more seasons, perhaps I'll get a micrometer on there and detect a thousandth of an inch (or maybe two or three!) will have been burnished away. But that would be five or more seasons and way beyond even the most pessimistic of "break even" rationalizations; to which I say, "you're missing half the value."

The first and foremost value of the Movits is simply that they work. No fade, excellent peak brake force and they don't overheat, so no heat soak, no fluid temperature issues. A system working within its designed operating parameters.

The second value is subjective: zero time working on brakes. How much time do you spend in the paddock working on the brakes? I'd say it's the single most common and costliest activity in the paddock in time and money. The usual questions are about pedal feel, maybe the fluid is boiling or the pads are getting thin or the rotors need to be cleared out to remove dust and allow better cooling because it's all getting a bit too hot and the pedal is not that solid, confident device it was at the start of the weekend. So do you take those $1000 brake pads (that's about right for a set of pads, sensors and fresh rear caliper bolts for an RS 3.8) and they're about 50% gone, and throw them and put in fresh pads? Do it now, before the next session? Do it before tomorrow? Just get it done one before every two- or three-day weekend? How much further can you go before the pads are too thin and maybe you boil the fluid and lose the pedal? Wouldn't it be marvelous to not have to work on the hottest part of the car while you're in the paddock with minimal tools, maybe a hot sun, recovering from driving, wanting to enjoy the next session, and generally not be feeling anxious about having the car back together for the next session? Shouldn't a track day be about driving? Maybe tinkering with data and damper clicks? Maybe just work on line and technique: just plain getting your mind completely and utterly concentrated on just one single point of focus to the exclusion of all else. When I've been driving at my limit for 30 minutes, lap after lap, I don't have a care in the world. I don't know if its the adrenaline or endorphins or some sort of conditioning built up from years of positive reinforcement, but 30 minutes in a 911 is the best way -- perhaps short of a Ducati -- to reach those opiate receptors in a legal, recreational activity. I do whatever I can do to remove distractions and allow myself to focus on the driving.

So the second value for me is: I spend zero time working on brakes. I have 100% confidence the pedal will always be there and the brakes won't fade.

Third value: pads last till they're so thin you replace them out of a sense of mercy. Pads are a major expense for track day driving. You have to put gas in the tank, but even at 10 mpg, you don't do that many miles and paying track pump prices, it's still not a limiting factor. Tires are the other real cost -- not much you can do about the cost of gas and tires. But brake pads are annoying; an expensive time sink. Especially on the RS because the front calipers flex and they're too big and they bevel the pads. So you have to flip the pads at about 30-40% wear on the leading edge. Then you have to replace them at about 75% wear on the leading edge. If you let the pad get any thinner than about 30% (and I would argue less than about 50%) you start to get heat soak through the pad and the fluid temperature starts to rise. Plus, you run the risk of the pad backing plate touching the rotor. With Movits, I was confident to run the pads with a much greater safety margin, knowing from experience I could run the pads down literally to the rivets. Of course, if you run down to the backing plate itself, that's a different story and one of the rear rotors shows the surface scars of a weekend when a rear pad completely failed and turned to dust (while the other three pads on the back of the car were still at 10mm. But the rivets aren't a hardened metal and they're not hard enough to leave any mark at all in the rotor surface. Not having to swap out pads prematurely can save hundreds of dollars per event. I often found myself going to a three day track weekend knowing I had to swap out the pads and flush the brake fluid, or there was a chance that by the third day, I'd be having questions about whether everything was in peak condition. I'm not advocating running down to the rivets, just that there's the peace of mind confidence that there's a safety margin so you don't have to swap out serviceable pads prematurely. This is one of the real joys of track day driving with Movits: no worries.

Fourth value: weight saving. Both unsprung and rotating driveline inertia are improved. This is a well worn topic, no need for me to repeat.

Fifth value: durability. Unlike PCCBs, Movits are tough as nails. Tougher. Bash a Movit rotor with a wrench or drive through kitty litter and spray grit into the brakes, and nothing happens. The Movit rotor is "monolithic" (comprised of the same friction material through 100% of its mass.) Any of the factory CCB rotors is made with a thin layer of friction surface glued and sandwiched onto a core of a disparate ceramic material (which cannot function as a friction surface. PCCBs wear (quickly, I would say) and once they're below factory spec minimum thickness, their useful life can be measured in minutes on the track. Also, the PCCB rotor is fragile. It's surface can be chipped and cannot be repaired. Put a wheel "off" or get a piece of gravel jammed between the caliper and the PCCB rotor and you're about to have an expensive repair. The rotors I've got now, I could see myself keeping these for the rest of my life on the track, just swapping the hats to fit the next car and the next. As others have noted, in the worst case, if you did manage to crack or chip a Movit, or have a backing plate reach the rotor and keep driving on no pads for long enough, you might cause some damage. The factory has the technology and processes to repair the rotor. I'm in no hurry to challenge them on this front, but if you can afford the round trip time to have a car without brakes, you can send the rotor back for repair.

So that's it: while the Movit kit is one of the most expensive upgrades you can make to a Porsche, it's also one of the few that will completely revolutionize driving the car. It won't void the Porsche warranty (I know this from first hand experience) and it has near 100% resale value (an assertion I'll test when I upgrade to the 410mm units for the 991 GT3.)

aussie jimmy

yes that is nirvana, valhalla, heaven....

savyboy

I'll only add that true nirvana and alignment of the planets is found with the full MovIt set-up: rotors and calipers. Eliminating the pad taper and having a brake pedal that is like a brick for the entirety of a session is...very satisfying. The OE caliper flex is atrocious.

Plenty of pics and detail in my previous posts.

hesperus

long post, and not at all a bad thing when it is this informative!

i'd long since abandoned any attempt to rationally justify the cost of the Movits, and chalked it up to simply wanting the best that one could possibly get/afford for one's pride and joy.

but your post has made me one happy(ier) camper