.1 engine clicking/knocking noise
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From: Regretfully not at a track... :(
Thanx in advance
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From: Midwest
While I'm at it, I'll have them install your coolant elbow. But how does the side without o-rings install? More adhesive, or clamps?
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=386
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From: san jose, california
Loctite Blue, here I come.
While I'm at it, I'll have them install your coolant elbow. But how does the side without o-rings install? More adhesive, or clamps?
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=386
While I'm at it, I'll have them install your coolant elbow. But how does the side without o-rings install? More adhesive, or clamps?
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=386
On the coolant elbows it's clamped the other side
Hopefully Dan did sell our last set. With all the engines out (not a good thing) we are making more
You're probably going to be fine. I've yet to see a non RS (or non LWF car) have that issue. It's from gearing down really.
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After some research, it looks like Loctite Red 272 (High Temp) is made specifically for this application (cam sprocket bolts). Up to 450F constant temps, and a 180 lb-ft breakaway should do the trick. I'm not sure what the torque spec on those bolts are, but I would guess you want something that is strong, but not permanent in case you ever need to rebuild/service those parts.
Thanks for the help. Trust me, if my engine ever goes kaboom, it's coming straight to you for a 3.9L
Thanks for the help. Trust me, if my engine ever goes kaboom, it's coming straight to you for a 3.9L
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Sooooo...I'm assuming I know the answer to this but does this effect 996 cars too. I know the variocam is a little different but I'm guessing not much.
I've had the 4.0L flywheel in my car for about 5k miles now. No issues to date but this also makes me worry.
Red 272 is good...says it needs to be heated to release...I have it on my cank pulley bolt from when I installed the RS pulley on my car and it really didn't take much effort to release when I had to pull the pulley back off to replace the front main seal...no heat or anything.
I've had the 4.0L flywheel in my car for about 5k miles now. No issues to date but this also makes me worry.
Red 272 is good...says it needs to be heated to release...I have it on my cank pulley bolt from when I installed the RS pulley on my car and it really didn't take much effort to release when I had to pull the pulley back off to replace the front main seal...no heat or anything.
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After some research, it looks like Loctite Red 272 (High Temp) is made specifically for this application (cam sprocket bolts). Up to 450F constant temps, and a 180 lb-ft breakaway should do the trick. I'm not sure what the torque spec on those bolts are, but I would guess you want something that is strong, but not permanent in case you ever need to rebuild/service those parts.
Thanks for the help. Trust me, if my engine ever goes kaboom, it's coming straight to you for a 3.9L
Thanks for the help. Trust me, if my engine ever goes kaboom, it's coming straight to you for a 3.9L
Sooooo...I'm assuming I know the answer to this but does this effect 996 cars too. I know the variocam is a little different but I'm guessing not much.
I've had the 4.0L flywheel in my car for about 5k miles now. No issues to date but this also makes me worry.
No you're lucky... much simpler and you're safe
Red 272 is good...says it needs to be heated to release...I have it on my cank pulley bolt from when I installed the RS pulley on my car and it really didn't take much effort to release when I had to pull the pulley back off to replace the front main seal...no heat or anything.
I've had the 4.0L flywheel in my car for about 5k miles now. No issues to date but this also makes me worry.
No you're lucky... much simpler and you're safe
Red 272 is good...says it needs to be heated to release...I have it on my cank pulley bolt from when I installed the RS pulley on my car and it really didn't take much effort to release when I had to pull the pulley back off to replace the front main seal...no heat or anything.
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And if the engine is coming out have them do this:
http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/techni...urbo-cars.html
http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/techni...urbo-cars.html
Apart from the rattle noise is there any other symptoms and is there a cure?
Jon
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Firstly Cec3 I hope it turns out to be something miner. As some one who has had a con rod failure and replacement engine I'm very nervese about engines noises and pertentional failures so can some one confirm that the following is correct. My car is a 7.1 gt3 so cam adjusters doesn't effect me but the actuator could be an issue? My cars has a LWF + cup final drive + up rate engine and gear box mounts, so I assume the car will be at greater risk of this type of failure?
Apart from the rattle noise is there any other symptoms and is there a cure?
Jon
Apart from the rattle noise is there any other symptoms and is there a cure?
Jon
Then the noise... Basically bolts scraping against aluminum and also the rattle of the adjuster coming apart is distinct at idle.
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Hi Jon your car has 2 of the poorly designed cam actuators/adjusters vs 4 on the mk2. With a LWF tracking and aggressive downshifting/gearing down it can happen to a mk1 gt3 yes. You will get a low oil pressure light and I would check your oil filter periodically for aluminum in shavings from the bolts backing out and carving out the back of the cover. If you see shavings that's the start of one or more bolts coming out.
Then the noise... Basically bolts scraping against aluminum and also the rattle of the adjuster coming apart is distinct at idle.
Then the noise... Basically bolts scraping against aluminum and also the rattle of the adjuster coming apart is distinct at idle.
I'll keep an eye out for these symptoms
Jon
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Could be the actuator bolts backed out, there are other posts on Rennlist on this problem. I had a friend with a .2 RS with 3k miles had the issue and Porsche replaced his engine a out 2 months ago.
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From: Republic of Texas
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Hi Jon your car has 2 of the poorly designed cam actuators/adjusters vs 4 on the mk2. With a LWF tracking and aggressive downshifting/gearing down it can happen to a mk1 gt3 yes. You will get a low oil pressure light and I would check your oil filter periodically for aluminum in shavings from the bolts backing out and carving out the back of the cover. If you see shavings that's the start of one or more bolts coming out.
Then the noise... Basically bolts scraping against aluminum and also the rattle of the adjuster coming apart is distinct at idle.
Then the noise... Basically bolts scraping against aluminum and also the rattle of the adjuster coming apart is distinct at idle.
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From: san jose, california
if they're loose you can have them order the newer / updated set for what it's worth (they have higher friction surfaces). It's a good few hours to do but I'm not sure how a dealer would go about it... they may strip down a lot of parts and time the cams that way...
