What align & sway settings for 997.1 GT3?
#1
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I just bought a 2007 GT3 with PCCB and I'm having my shop set it up.
I plan to drive it to work and about 10 track days per year.
I'm coming from a 997 C2S with 245/315 18" Hoosiers and H&R sways with about -2.2/-1.8 camber. The car is very neutral and planted.
I run in the experienced group in our region.
I'd sure appreciate advice on alignment and sway bar settings for my GT3.
I plan to run the same Hoosiers. My sways are OEM GT3.
Thanks for your advice.
I plan to drive it to work and about 10 track days per year.
I'm coming from a 997 C2S with 245/315 18" Hoosiers and H&R sways with about -2.2/-1.8 camber. The car is very neutral and planted.
I run in the experienced group in our region.
I'd sure appreciate advice on alignment and sway bar settings for my GT3.
I plan to run the same Hoosiers. My sways are OEM GT3.
Thanks for your advice.
#2
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-3 up front, -2.5 rear. 4mm total toe in on rear, a hair of toe out on the front. Full stiff on rear bar, 2 hole from full soft on front.
I find it very neutral. Depending on your commute, this alignment will probably eat up street tires. Surprised you could get enough heat in your hoosiers with the previous setup. Hoosiers like some camber.
I find it very neutral. Depending on your commute, this alignment will probably eat up street tires. Surprised you could get enough heat in your hoosiers with the previous setup. Hoosiers like some camber.
#7
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I just bought a 2007 GT3 with PCCB and I'm having my shop set it up.
I plan to drive it to work and about 10 track days per year.
I'm coming from a 997 C2S with 245/315 18" Hoosiers and H&R sways with about -2.2/-1.8 camber. The car is very neutral and planted.
I run in the experienced group in our region.
I'd sure appreciate advice on alignment and sway bar settings for my GT3.
I plan to run the same Hoosiers. My sways are OEM GT3.
Thanks for your advice.
I plan to drive it to work and about 10 track days per year.
I'm coming from a 997 C2S with 245/315 18" Hoosiers and H&R sways with about -2.2/-1.8 camber. The car is very neutral and planted.
I run in the experienced group in our region.
I'd sure appreciate advice on alignment and sway bar settings for my GT3.
I plan to run the same Hoosiers. My sways are OEM GT3.
Thanks for your advice.
Since you plan on driving to work then your rear camber, as you know, is the key issue for tire wear. You are running within the spec range of the hybrid setup for people who track and use it as a daily driver. The 997gt3.mk1 that you just purchased, in the opinion of many, comes with a rear sway that may be slightly under swayed - some have order the gt2 sway bar to give them the more neutral handling that they desire. With all the above in mind, I would recommend upping the front camber slightly and maybe even backing off the rear by .1 since you will be using the OE sways. If you were going with a much more full race set up you would bump the cambers on both ends as mentioned above.
My suggestion would be to take your -2.2/-1.8 and try -2.3/-1.7 or keep the -1.8 and up your front by -2.3 or -2.4 to try to keep that 'neutral' feeling you are use to.
Personally, I was not able to get the neutral feeling until I installed the rear GT2 bar. Prior to this I was running a -2.7/-2.3 setup with 1/8th toe out in the front. When I installed the GT2 rear bar I was able to back down the cambers as the car was immediately more neutral. I then slowly over time found the range that you were in but settled at -2.3/-1.75 with zero from toe. I run the GT2 bar on soft or middle depending on the tires (soft for PSS street, middle for R6) and have moved the front sway to middle from the as delivered 2nd softest. This is a good hybrid setup. You can for sure up both ends camber wise if you give up street driving but I was able to get very good performance on Hoosiers with that setup - a pro for sure would up it for pure track driving.
As a side note, and I have no idea if they fit, but if your aftermarket sways would fit on a gt3, then you should see if your rear bar would work and if it is thicker / stiffer, it may be a solution for you instead of getting the GT2 bar if you think the car needs more help with rotation. The above feeling is not shared by everyone and there are people that actually soften the OE rear bar.
Last edited by 997gt3north; 06-14-2013 at 11:33 AM.
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#8
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Swaybars are personal preference..whether or not you like a loose or tight car. I ran my .GT3 with front sway one off of full still and rear in center, camber 3.0 up front 1.8 rear. I like a tight car. Clarke likes it loose and runs his full soft up front and full stiff in rear. We run same lap times and nose to tail on the track with completely different settings, but ones that work for style we each like to drive. So while good to ask, you need to play with them to determine what feels best for you.
Car feels loose(oversteer): Tighten front or loosen rear bar
Car feels tight(understeer): Loosen front, or tighten rear
Car feels loose(oversteer): Tighten front or loosen rear bar
Car feels tight(understeer): Loosen front, or tighten rear
#10
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Obviously springs, compression, ride height, can adjust for over/under steer, but if your question is about how to adjust the swaybars to compensate for over/understeer, then yes. Maybe I should have said, If car feels too loose or too tight, then....
#12
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Also wanted to add, since you are taking it in for setup work, that most people who track the car have lowered it 'somewhat'. One thing you are going to have to figure out is are you able to do this given your daily driving needs and whether or not the front of the car becomes and issue. Personally, what I have done is I just decided to removed the front splitter when around town to make it a non issue as I have lowered the car - this you should likely wait until you have driven it where you intend to drive it to see how it does.
The somewhat general consensus is that for better track grip and thus speed, slightly reducing the factory recommended rake by 5 - 10mm by lowering the rear more than the front is the way to go.
The other thing I would suggest is:
- picking up the Cupcar front splitter for the track - it is softer and bends, it is cheaper and can be installed and easily removed after track days (or leave it on all the time if it works around town)
- adjust your GT3 rear wing up to the top setting (do a search - one screw has to be removed)
The somewhat general consensus is that for better track grip and thus speed, slightly reducing the factory recommended rake by 5 - 10mm by lowering the rear more than the front is the way to go.
The other thing I would suggest is:
- picking up the Cupcar front splitter for the track - it is softer and bends, it is cheaper and can be installed and easily removed after track days (or leave it on all the time if it works around town)
- adjust your GT3 rear wing up to the top setting (do a search - one screw has to be removed)
#13
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Mine is dual-use track/DD car and I've done pretty much what 997gt3north has described. I have the GT2 bar in the rear on its softest setting and the front bar is OEM at its factory setting. Camber is currently -2.3F/-1.8R and overall the car is quite neutral. I run MPSS and do about 15 track days per year. The MPSS have a soft compound on the outside shoulder and you will quickly destroy the shoulders unless you add in a fair amount of negative camber. I'm thinking of adding a bit more negative camber in the rear, maybe -2.0, to improve wear on the rear.
#14
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^^^ this response basically gives you the answer that will help you fine tune your decision
- as your speed goes up and your track days increase, slightly more than -2.3/-1.8 is needed if you have the skill to exploit it (-2.5/-2.0 is probably perfect for a weekend only car and 15 DE's per year if you are posting times 'around' 2:15 at Watkins as an example in the 997gt3.mk1)
- post up your feed back after your first trackday comparing the cars
- don't be surprised if initially you don't see a difference in lap times - you are going to have to get use to and comfortable exploiting the higher rpm range in the car to extract the performance
- as your speed goes up and your track days increase, slightly more than -2.3/-1.8 is needed if you have the skill to exploit it (-2.5/-2.0 is probably perfect for a weekend only car and 15 DE's per year if you are posting times 'around' 2:15 at Watkins as an example in the 997gt3.mk1)
- post up your feed back after your first trackday comparing the cars
- don't be surprised if initially you don't see a difference in lap times - you are going to have to get use to and comfortable exploiting the higher rpm range in the car to extract the performance