Izzone

Spent the day at Sebring yesterday making sure car is good for cota

With new clutch / pp the car shifts like new again. No sticking in gear

Just one more street car part on a 3.8rs that is under designed

tasman

Glad to year it. Will see you in Texas.

Spleenache

I had the problem of shifter not coming out of a gear once the engine and transmission was warmed up. Especially not wanting to come out of the 4th but it also happened in most gears. I had cup cable upgrade, 4.0 clutch upgrade and a brand new pressure plate.None of this helped. Finally the Porsche dealer diagnosed it to the shift fork. They saw wear marks on it and with Porsche’s approval changed it under warranty. Lo and behold the problem is gone.

I am not suggesting by any means that this is THE solution to all sticky shifter problems but in my case it worked. Just wanted to let everyone know.

Mvez

Saw a 3.8RS break a shift fork last week at the track. Add it to the list.

GTgears

There's a reason that the 996 Cup uses a steel 3/4 shift fork. All the street GT3s have a brass one...

Mvez

Sounds like an upgrade to be had if any tranny work is being done. Thanks again for the info.

Jamie_GT3

Matt is going to take all my money... Add it to my list

Matt, is there a way you can put a list of upgrades together we should have if we track our cars...

CRex

Update after a year: replaced 1st 4.0 PP (which went bad as mentioned in original post) with another 4.0 part Jan 2013. Problem came back in the same manner last month. I'm now due for my 4th PP (clutch disc still original and bite point still at the bottom quartile of pedal travel). If anyone has experience with a better alternative I'm all ears... I'm beginning to feel like an idiot doing the same thing over and over in hopes of a different result...

p.s. since I'll be dropping the tranny I'm thinking of putting in the Guard 4.125 R&P to eliminate those "in-between gear" moments at my home track. Is this worthwhile? I don't think re-gearing 2nd through 5th will be economical which is why I'm inclined to go R&P, but what do I know, I just wanna drive...

Texas RS

'11 3.8 RS

I had an issue with getting the car out of gear, even when stopped. It turns out there was some side loading that resulted in the fork rubbing a slight groove in the collar that the shaft comes through.

Replaced with GT2RS clutch and PP, not problems yet. The GT2RS is designed differently and has more clamping force also.

mooty

gearing is complex. pm Matt and he will GGR u the right ratio and RP

Mvez

I wonder if there is a stronger clutch release fork for our cars?

CRex

Already emailed him before my post!

Jamie_GT3

I have a 4.0 R&P I pulled out in great shape if you're interested...

Mvez

This thread has me thinking about some points which we may be overlooking. It seems in the quest to find "better", "stronger" clutch components, mainly the PP and Clutch disc, the throw-out bearing and the clutch release fork are the same for all models (GT3.1, .2, RS, GT2, etc.). The higher the clamping force of the PP, the more stress it should put on the clutch release fork and the ears of the TO bearing.

With that said, it makes me think that using the 4.0 Clutch kit for the stock 3.6L isn't necessarily the answer, especially since these cars don't see the problems that the 3.8's do. Sure, lower gearing in the RS means more shifting, which is also part of the equation, but you are just shifting the stress to another part down the line. Something has to give. I've seen more and more of the clutch release forks being the culprits, and it seems that if you want to use the HD 4.0 clutch, then perhaps you need to be prepared to service TO bearings or release forks more often.

The design of the 4.0 clutch disc does away with the small circles on the edges of the springs, but those circles were originally there to avoid a full crack, and spread the load over the whole area, just like how you stop a crack, you simply drill a hole at the end of it. I agree, the PP design is more robust, and I'm sure the clutch disc is too, but it's a perfect example of what happens when you make a change. The previous design probably allowed for a slower crack development, while the new design without circles just goes when it goes, if that ends up being the case. The picture of Izzone's clutch disc shows this.

Just some thoughts. I'm about to replace my clutch, and after 2.5 years of tracking and 27K total miles on my 3.6L clutch, I have yet to prove to myself that using a 4.0 will be "better".

For the 3.8's, it's definitely a better design and holds up, perhaps for the 3.6 it would be fine too, but like I said, you shift the wear somewhere else, and with clutch release forks bending, and breaking......perhaps we see where some of the problem lies.

I will also admit, Matt from Guard is right, there are some nice billet and steel 1/2 and 3/4 gear selector forks available, but these are things you need to actually get inside the tranny to replace, but would certainly also improve service life and performance. CMS seems to make some nice billet gear selector forks for the 997 GT3's. Certainly worth doing if you are re-gearing.

911GT3

My 2010 .2 non-RS has just started doing this--13,000 miles, new 4.0 clutch kit at about half that when re-geared (Wright Motorsports). At Barber several weeks ago (38 degrees BTW, so ambient temp certainly wasn't the problem), after the back straight, the shifter didn't want to move out of fourth to get back into third. And, I had it happen when the car was at normal operating temps on the street, driving to the shop. As I stopped at a light, from a stopped position, I couldn't move the shifter from second to first. As the light was changing to green, I was thinking "I am going to block everyone from moving." I have the 4.0 clutch and pulley. I don't like forcing anything mechanical--like to be able to move the gearshift with my fingertips.