M3EvoBR

Syngear is the best fluid I used so far, never EVER had a problem before, when Orbit opened the box from the GT2 (Peter's and than mine) they were surprised with the minimal wear.

I'm getting a few quarts if you want I'll just get some for for you. It's a little notchy when weather is cold, but goes away once everything is nice and warm.

TRAKCAR

OK, put it on my tab and drop it off at Orbit with the rest of my stuff please.

911rox

As in Castrol Syngear guys????

85Gold

No it's not a Castrol product.


Product Description
Synergyn Oil's Syngear II is designed to meet and to exceed all known requirements for a lubricant in today's racing gear systems. It is formulated for both manual transmissions and differentials (rear ends). It has proven itself to be the gear lubricant of choice in all types of racing, from NASCAR Winston Cup to the smallest class in drag racing. It was tested in repeated runs at over 300 m.p.h. Syngear II is an 80w140, GL-6 rated gear lube blended from the highest quality base oils and extreme pressure additives. It incorporates an adhesive/cohesive component; adhering to metal surfaces for boundary layer protection and cohering to itself for greater film strength. It literally "climbs" the gears for maximum protection. Syngear II runs cooler in quick change differential racing gear systems. For maximum protection and minimum loss of horsepower, Syngear II is the very best. Proven in racing, Syngear II is excellent for all general automotive applications.

Only found on the web that I know of.

Peter

Izzone

Strange thing is 996 cups dont have this problem and the gear box is very simular

Gavin sent one to Brian Copens, Brian opened it and found not all parts are the same internally but can be replace with cup parts......a cup runs Delvac and doesnt have thsi problem

I figured screw it just buy a cup with a proper box that works

CRex

Update: after a new throwout bearing and pressure plate the problem's resolved. The two old bits that come out look pristine, as is the clutch friction disc which has about 80% left (which I reused).

Guess the tolerances there are so tight that whatever caused the problem doesn't stand out to the naked (or untrained) eye...

P.J.S.

I had similar issue
When I laid the new pp on the work bench and measured the distance from the fingers to the work bench - there was 3 mm difference between the old and new

Holding them in my hands I would not have noticed it

Edit: I swapped the throw out bearing while in there but mine was fine - deduced the pressure plate was the culprit and the only difference I could find was the finger measurement mentioned

I still have the old pp - it's for sale to anyone that thinks fatigued pp fingers are a myth - should be good $5 plus shipping :-)

Izzone

Pressure plate isn't too expensive?

Ill order one and have it installed

What type of pp does a 996 cup use?

Maybe it's more robust

I have 8kish track miles on current pp

Mvez

Did you put in another new .1RS pressure plate, or the 4.0 PP?

Mvez

Definitely peaked my interest. I'll probably pick some up and try it at my next service interval.

P.J.S.

.1RS pp
I know the prevailing thought on RL is that the 4.0 PP is the resolution but my research indicated a couple reports of the 4.0 PP also failing and in one instance with dire consequences... So people much smarter than me kept saying "stick with what you know works/is proven"... So I did
I hope the 4.0 is the resolution but at the time of my replacement (last spring) my thought was that the 4.0 pp had not failed yet on the 4.0 cars because they were not being thrashed yet and the 4.0 pp on the 3.8 cars were just going into cars as "fixes"
I have yet to be proven right or wrong on my 4.0 pp theory but I never heard any significant complaints about the 3.6 RS pp so I stuck with it

Ur20v

PJ

Do you run the 4.0 friction/centre plate?

Cheers
Jay

P.J.S.

See post 41
3.6 RS. PP

Mvez

Yep, had this same conversation with somebody local, and although mine is fine for now, I won't put in anything but the original 3.6RS pp (which I believe was shared with the turbo at the time).

Even more encouraging is the fact that you have lower gearing, which also effectively puts more strain on the unit, and still no blammo.

P.J.S.

Yep... Mine let go at 9500 miles on the clock
Soft failure thankfully
Which means I have put 6000 miles on the car since getting it - probably 4 to 5k track miles
I figured it just timed out