Transmission not "coming out" of gear?
#16
Rennlist Member
da Boss had a similar problem when hot the clutch wasn't releasing but it only reared it's ugly head going into gear. A new upgraded clutch fixed that problem. I do see where a clutch not fully disengaging could cause a problem getting out of gear as it would be under load and not spinning free.
Peter
Peter
#17
Same issue for me after 45 minutes hard driving on the Ring or on a track : 5 to 4 and 4 to 3 are really sticky nearly stuck in fact, and after 30 to 45 minutes cool down it is ok. I use standard oil....
#20
Nordschleife Master
Now that I have vbox through teh can I am going to log trans temp next outing I have and figure out how hot is is getting
#21
Gavin from Autoquest has some connections with the oil industry. He got some company to develop a new oil that helps with high temperature. Please contact him for more details. I haven't notice any issues when the transmission is hot at the track, but I can't really give you a scientific explanation. Gavin may be able to tell you more about the product and how it has increased the transmission life on his own track GT3.
#23
Rennlist Member
proper fluid from the get go
changed often
best you can do
watch for pp fatigue if you are having trouble getting out of gear
FWIW I use amsoil severe gear and no issue
changed often
best you can do
watch for pp fatigue if you are having trouble getting out of gear
FWIW I use amsoil severe gear and no issue
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks all--less than 20 hours and 20+ educated responses. The power of RL!!
I do have a cup 40/60 LSD clutch pack. I'll look into alternative oil fills as suggested, and double-check if my current fill level is up to standard (which I think is as much as the box can take without spilling out of the upper fill hole). Will also send a sample of the current Mobilube PTX in my box to Blackstone for analysis (even though this particular fill has only been in the box for one track event)
I can relate to the point on PP fingers weakening... but wouldn't a weakened PP affect both gear coming out and going in? My "going-in" shifts are crisp, just trying to reason through the possibilities here...
Lastly, this really drives home the point that we NEED, yes, NEED a temperature sensor in the gearbox. Every other car with half a track intent has temperature readings on their transmissions, and that's from Fiats to GTRs. PAG you reading this? Put a temp sensor in the 991 GT3 box!
I do have a cup 40/60 LSD clutch pack. I'll look into alternative oil fills as suggested, and double-check if my current fill level is up to standard (which I think is as much as the box can take without spilling out of the upper fill hole). Will also send a sample of the current Mobilube PTX in my box to Blackstone for analysis (even though this particular fill has only been in the box for one track event)
I can relate to the point on PP fingers weakening... but wouldn't a weakened PP affect both gear coming out and going in? My "going-in" shifts are crisp, just trying to reason through the possibilities here...
Lastly, this really drives home the point that we NEED, yes, NEED a temperature sensor in the gearbox. Every other car with half a track intent has temperature readings on their transmissions, and that's from Fiats to GTRs. PAG you reading this? Put a temp sensor in the 991 GT3 box!
#25
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Limassol, Cyprus and DFW, Texas
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Running Delvac is better correct?
Im on my second transmission.....both have done the exact same thing when hot
I change the fluid every six days, with Delvac. Magnetic plug is always pretty clean
When car gets hot the shifter sticks in gears. As soon as it cools off its fine.
It also "pops" from three to 4 or vice versa when hot under load
Im on my second transmission.....both have done the exact same thing when hot
I change the fluid every six days, with Delvac. Magnetic plug is always pretty clean
When car gets hot the shifter sticks in gears. As soon as it cools off its fine.
It also "pops" from three to 4 or vice versa when hot under load
#26
Burning Brakes
I use swepco 201, a little tough when cold, but fine when hot.
I still don't see how the clutch could do this? Unless, it has completely failed. They just don't fail like this, soft failures. If the fingers get weak due to heat, then the friction disk should be in contact with the PP/Flywheel. I doubt that is happening.
When you depress the clutch, the load (most of it) has been lifted, allowing the input shaft to "float" Until the clutch is released again.
I ask you, when the trans starts doing this. Have you tried to shut off the engine and with or without the clutch try going through the entire H pattern??
If things are still not releasing, it's not the clutch or PP/LWFW..
I'm curious, and not too bright..
It sounds like a shift fork possibly or linkage/Shifter cable or something.
Good luck
#27
Nordschleife Master
hotter it ges the worse it gets
It happens when the rear end is not pointed straight and I shift. I have always had an idea that the dynamic mounts arent thinking fast enough....but thats my stupid theroy. Maybe sold mount the engine and trans and see if it helps
I put 996 cup car cable sin and still have teh same problem
Depending on teh direction I go with a Cup.....I will probably hav emy gearbox opened by Orbit to see what is going on inside of it.
#29
Rennlist Member
Just had mine changed before Sebring with the same fluid used on Cup cars and it was suddenly crunching going into 3rd when hot which it never did before. Going to dump it out and switch to Syngear II which I ran in the GT2 and see how that works.
Peter
Peter