Replacing brake rotors
#1
Replacing brake rotors
Asking on this forum, cuz you guys take your cars apart more frequently than other forum members do.
2011 C2S.
After many track days, my front pads are gone (2-3mm of thickness left on outer front pads).
Rotors will be replaced too (they have a sizable lip, and also "waves" worn into the rotor; these "waves" are the exact width of the cross-drilled holes in the rotor.) Next time, I'm going slotted, not cross-drilled.
1.- Is rotor removal just unscrewing that large center bolt and the little countersunk screw (after caliper removal, of course)? Is the bolt standard rotation, or counter rotation (righty tighty, lefty loosey; or vise versa)?
2.- What are the torque values for these center bolts?
3.- Do the caliper bolts HAVE to be replaced? And what is there torque value?
I've replaced pads before, just not the rotors (on my car, the pads can be r/r'd w/o removing the calipers).
Thanks guys.
2011 C2S.
After many track days, my front pads are gone (2-3mm of thickness left on outer front pads).
Rotors will be replaced too (they have a sizable lip, and also "waves" worn into the rotor; these "waves" are the exact width of the cross-drilled holes in the rotor.) Next time, I'm going slotted, not cross-drilled.
1.- Is rotor removal just unscrewing that large center bolt and the little countersunk screw (after caliper removal, of course)? Is the bolt standard rotation, or counter rotation (righty tighty, lefty loosey; or vise versa)?
2.- What are the torque values for these center bolts?
3.- Do the caliper bolts HAVE to be replaced? And what is there torque value?
I've replaced pads before, just not the rotors (on my car, the pads can be r/r'd w/o removing the calipers).
Thanks guys.
#2
Asking on this forum, cuz you guys take your cars apart more frequently than other forum members do.
2011 C2S.
After many track days, my front pads are gone (2-3mm of thickness left on outer front pads).
Rotors will be replaced too (they have a sizable lip, and also "waves" worn into the rotor; these "waves" are the exact width of the cross-drilled holes in the rotor.) Next time, I'm going slotted, not cross-drilled.
1.- Is rotor removal just unscrewing that large center bolt and the little countersunk screw (after caliper removal, of course)? Is the bolt standard rotation, or counter rotation (righty tighty, lefty loosey; or vise versa)?
2.- What are the torque values for these center bolts?
3.- Do the caliper bolts HAVE to be replaced? And what is there torque value?
I've replaced pads before, just not the rotors (on my car, the pads can be r/r'd w/o removing the calipers).
Thanks guys.
2011 C2S.
After many track days, my front pads are gone (2-3mm of thickness left on outer front pads).
Rotors will be replaced too (they have a sizable lip, and also "waves" worn into the rotor; these "waves" are the exact width of the cross-drilled holes in the rotor.) Next time, I'm going slotted, not cross-drilled.
1.- Is rotor removal just unscrewing that large center bolt and the little countersunk screw (after caliper removal, of course)? Is the bolt standard rotation, or counter rotation (righty tighty, lefty loosey; or vise versa)?
2.- What are the torque values for these center bolts?
3.- Do the caliper bolts HAVE to be replaced? And what is there torque value?
I've replaced pads before, just not the rotors (on my car, the pads can be r/r'd w/o removing the calipers).
Thanks guys.
2) hand tight, once the wheel is on they do nothing. I do not even have them on my car (lost them)
3) some say yes, I used to reuse them until I put studs in. I belive the caliper bolts are 67 ft lbs, someone here should be able to confirm.....im out of town now so dont have info handy
#3
Asking on this forum, cuz you guys take your cars apart more frequently than other forum members do.
2011 C2S.
After many track days, my front pads are gone (2-3mm of thickness left on outer front pads).
Rotors will be replaced too (they have a sizable lip, and also "waves" worn into the rotor; these "waves" are the exact width of the cross-drilled holes in the rotor.) Next time, I'm going slotted, not cross-drilled.
1.- Is rotor removal just unscrewing that large center bolt and the little countersunk screw (after caliper removal, of course)? Is the bolt standard rotation, or counter rotation (righty tighty, lefty loosey; or vise versa)?
2.- What are the torque values for these center bolts?
3.- Do the caliper bolts HAVE to be replaced? And what is there torque value?
I've replaced pads before, just not the rotors (on my car, the pads can be r/r'd w/o removing the calipers).
Thanks guys.
2011 C2S.
After many track days, my front pads are gone (2-3mm of thickness left on outer front pads).
Rotors will be replaced too (they have a sizable lip, and also "waves" worn into the rotor; these "waves" are the exact width of the cross-drilled holes in the rotor.) Next time, I'm going slotted, not cross-drilled.
1.- Is rotor removal just unscrewing that large center bolt and the little countersunk screw (after caliper removal, of course)? Is the bolt standard rotation, or counter rotation (righty tighty, lefty loosey; or vise versa)?
2.- What are the torque values for these center bolts?
3.- Do the caliper bolts HAVE to be replaced? And what is there torque value?
I've replaced pads before, just not the rotors (on my car, the pads can be r/r'd w/o removing the calipers).
Thanks guys.
2- Your C2S 5 lug wheel bolts torque is I believe 98ft lbs each...but Porsche increased this last year but your dealer would be able to tell you the exact spec
3- You can reuse caliper bolts 2 times. Porsche recommends to replace each time since they are a stretch bolt. For a C2S these bolts are no more than $5ea so...your call. Torque spec is 63ftlbs
#4
Don't worry about the Large Centre Bolt, that is not holding the rotor on. It is held on by the wheel bolts (with the wheel) and a small screw.
I would change the caliper bolts, I didn't before and had the caliper bolt strip out under braking on the track. If you want to improve it, and never have to swap bolts out, put a cup car caliper stud kit in.
Very easy DIY
I would change the caliper bolts, I didn't before and had the caliper bolt strip out under braking on the track. If you want to improve it, and never have to swap bolts out, put a cup car caliper stud kit in.
Very easy DIY
#5
On a GT3 there is a small 10mm bolt behind the caliper you have to take off that holds the hard brake line to the upright
remove that before the calikper if not you will bend your hard brake lines
just snug hand tighten it back on when done, it snaps easy so dont overtighten
remove that before the calikper if not you will bend your hard brake lines
just snug hand tighten it back on when done, it snaps easy so dont overtighten
#6
Thanks guys. You answered my questions.
Since I don't have a GT3 (I'd sure like one tho') I don't know if my caliper has that small 10mm bolt that Izzone mentioned, but I am forewarned and will be careful with the possibility that I might have one, and protect the hard brake line.
Thanks again.
Since I don't have a GT3 (I'd sure like one tho') I don't know if my caliper has that small 10mm bolt that Izzone mentioned, but I am forewarned and will be careful with the possibility that I might have one, and protect the hard brake line.
Thanks again.
#7
Thanks guys. You answered my questions.
Since I don't have a GT3 (I'd sure like one tho') I don't know if my caliper has that small 10mm bolt that Izzone mentioned, but I am forewarned and will be careful with the possibility that I might have one, and protect the hard brake line.
Thanks again.
Since I don't have a GT3 (I'd sure like one tho') I don't know if my caliper has that small 10mm bolt that Izzone mentioned, but I am forewarned and will be careful with the possibility that I might have one, and protect the hard brake line.
Thanks again.