997.1 GT3 clutch help
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
997.1 GT3 clutch help
My 2008 car came with the GT3 RS LWFW and I added a GT3 RS pulley to match at 4k miles. Now I believe I may need a new clutch as it now only engages at the near end of the stroke from the floor vs the beginning or middle of the stroke from the floor. (please tell me they all do not do this?)...I do not believe there is any adjustment for this, correct? Sux as the car has low miles ,<10k and I am not a clutch abuser, at least I thought...
My questions are does the LWFW affect clutch wear or compound it? Street Car no tracking ....
And now that I have the RS LWFW and RS pulley in a non RS GT3, is the Stock GT3 clutch the same for both RS and GT3? Can someone please indicate what part numbers I need to order a new clutch, pp and T/O bearing? Or is there a complete Clutch kit part number?
What can I expect to pay labor wise for a clutch replacement?
So far no RMS leaks should I use the same seal or replace?
thanks folks
My questions are does the LWFW affect clutch wear or compound it? Street Car no tracking ....
And now that I have the RS LWFW and RS pulley in a non RS GT3, is the Stock GT3 clutch the same for both RS and GT3? Can someone please indicate what part numbers I need to order a new clutch, pp and T/O bearing? Or is there a complete Clutch kit part number?
What can I expect to pay labor wise for a clutch replacement?
So far no RMS leaks should I use the same seal or replace?
thanks folks
#3
If you try search you should find everything you need to know. Here is a jump start for you:
https://rennlist.com/forums/9095247-post1.html
If you put in the LWFW on the non-RS it will only be a matter of time (not many track miles) before you will need the upgraded 4.0 PP & Clutch too.
https://rennlist.com/forums/9095247-post1.html
If you put in the LWFW on the non-RS it will only be a matter of time (not many track miles) before you will need the upgraded 4.0 PP & Clutch too.
#4
Race Car
bleed the slave cylinder first. Might have air in the system.
Bleeder valve is on the top of the tranny...it's an absolute pain in the rear to get to and you have to do it almost blind. I'd go that route first before I assumed the car needed a clutch.
Bleeder valve is on the top of the tranny...it's an absolute pain in the rear to get to and you have to do it almost blind. I'd go that route first before I assumed the car needed a clutch.
#5
With 10k of regular driving this should not be happening to your car - but other than bleeding the clutch as has been suggested, if that doesn't work you will need to spend some money.
You will need:
- a new OE Pressure Plate
- a new OE friction Disk
- throw out bearing
- guide tube
- labor
#6
I don't believe this has been generally true for 3.6 gt3s - the 3.6 Pressure Plate gets fatigued with lots of track use but has not had the issues that the higher HP 3.8RS has had with its PP.
With 10k of regular driving this should not be happening to your car - but other than bleeding the clutch as has been suggested, if that doesn't work you will need to spend some money.
You will need:
- a new OE Pressure Plate
- a new OE friction Disk
- throw out bearing
- guide tube
- labor
With 10k of regular driving this should not be happening to your car - but other than bleeding the clutch as has been suggested, if that doesn't work you will need to spend some money.
You will need:
- a new OE Pressure Plate
- a new OE friction Disk
- throw out bearing
- guide tube
- labor
Good catch, you are correct. As I understand it, the pressure plate and clutch for the 3.6 and 3.8 are the same hence the upgraded 4.0 parts solving the problem on the 3.8 motors. BUT, non-RS 3.8L GT3's should not encounter this problem if they keep the original dual mass fly wheel. The problems there start when you only add the LWFW---you need to change the PP/clutch to 4.0 parts too. I did not ask MM about the 3.6L when discussing this issue with them.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Hey Paul,
Good catch, you are correct. As I understand it, the pressure plate and clutch for the 3.6 and 3.8 are the same hence the upgraded 4.0 parts solving the problem on the 3.8 motors. BUT, non-RS 3.8L GT3's should not encounter this problem if they keep the original dual mass fly wheel. The problems there start when you only add the LWFW---you need to change the PP/clutch to 4.0 parts too. I did not ask MM about the 3.6L when discussing this issue with them.
Good catch, you are correct. As I understand it, the pressure plate and clutch for the 3.6 and 3.8 are the same hence the upgraded 4.0 parts solving the problem on the 3.8 motors. BUT, non-RS 3.8L GT3's should not encounter this problem if they keep the original dual mass fly wheel. The problems there start when you only add the LWFW---you need to change the PP/clutch to 4.0 parts too. I did not ask MM about the 3.6L when discussing this issue with them.
Can anyone verify if the pp/clutch parts are the same for 3.6 and 3.8s with LWFWs? Original Dual mass flywheel is gone - or this would be a no brainer. Or has anyone upgraded a 3.6 clutch with 4.0 parts per Peters experience?
thanks guys
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#8
Unless you are seriously, seriously tracking, the 3.6 OE PP is fine.
Alex at Sharkwerks sells a similar to OE PP but that is not spring loaded - I have this one now. I would still have the original OE PP if I was concentrating while I was on the track and not talking to my son while I was passing 4 cars into turn 8 at Mosport. That said, I have 40,000kms on my car and it does go to the track - but it easily was putting up with it - but they do get fatigued and need replacement as they wear - but 10k seem very low to me.
I don't have the part numbers - just call a dealer parts department.
#9
Drifting
My 2008 car came with the GT3 RS LWFW and I added a GT3 RS pulley to match at 4k miles. Now I believe I may need a new clutch as it now only engages at the near end of the stroke from the floor vs the beginning or middle of the stroke from the floor. (please tell me they all do not do this?)...I do not believe there is any adjustment for this, correct? Sux as the car has low miles ,<10k and I am not a clutch abuser, at least I thought...
My questions are does the LWFW affect clutch wear or compound it? Street Car no tracking ....
And now that I have the RS LWFW and RS pulley in a non RS GT3, is the Stock GT3 clutch the same for both RS and GT3? Can someone please indicate what part numbers I need to order a new clutch, pp and T/O bearing? Or is there a complete Clutch kit part number?
What can I expect to pay labor wise for a clutch replacement?
So far no RMS leaks should I use the same seal or replace?
thanks folks
My questions are does the LWFW affect clutch wear or compound it? Street Car no tracking ....
And now that I have the RS LWFW and RS pulley in a non RS GT3, is the Stock GT3 clutch the same for both RS and GT3? Can someone please indicate what part numbers I need to order a new clutch, pp and T/O bearing? Or is there a complete Clutch kit part number?
What can I expect to pay labor wise for a clutch replacement?
So far no RMS leaks should I use the same seal or replace?
thanks folks
Clutch replacement varies widely on 911s because of the opportunities for "while you're in there" projects. I would guess your all in price would be $3-$4k.
#12
Drifting
#13
They are different parts.
Unless you are seriously, seriously tracking, the 3.6 OE PP is fine.
Alex at Sharkwerks sells a similar to OE PP but that is not spring loaded - I have this one now. I would still have the original OE PP if I was concentrating while I was on the track and not talking to my son while I was passing 4 cars into turn 8 at Mosport. That said, I have 40,000kms on my car and it does go to the track - but it easily was putting up with it - but they do get fatigued and need replacement as they wear - but 10k seem very low to me.
I don't have the part numbers - just call a dealer parts department.
Unless you are seriously, seriously tracking, the 3.6 OE PP is fine.
Alex at Sharkwerks sells a similar to OE PP but that is not spring loaded - I have this one now. I would still have the original OE PP if I was concentrating while I was on the track and not talking to my son while I was passing 4 cars into turn 8 at Mosport. That said, I have 40,000kms on my car and it does go to the track - but it easily was putting up with it - but they do get fatigued and need replacement as they wear - but 10k seem very low to me.
I don't have the part numbers - just call a dealer parts department.
997.2 GT3
CL: 996-116-015-01
PP: 996-116-027-51
997.1 GT3
CL: 996-116-015-01
PP: 996-116-027-51
I don't have any experience with the 996's but on my 997.2 it is a nice upgrade. The chatter adds even more character to the Mezger and it is lugging alot less mass on a crucial component. A couple sets of good tires and brake pads will cost more. Check out Suncoast they make it easy especially when you deduct the cost your LWFW. A good shop can install this in around 7-8 hours.
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...EnginetransGT3
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Not as I understand it when I undertook this project. Here are the OE part numbers from Porsche when the cars left the factory:
997.2 GT3
CL: 996-116-015-01
PP: 996-116-027-51
997.1 GT3
CL: 996-116-015-01
PP: 996-116-027-51
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...EnginetransGT3
997.2 GT3
CL: 996-116-015-01
PP: 996-116-027-51
997.1 GT3
CL: 996-116-015-01
PP: 996-116-027-51
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...EnginetransGT3
David
#15
I have a 2008 997 GT3 and I wanted to change the flywheel and clutch but I've been reading so much about Sachs clutches and light-weight aluminmum flywheels......in summation, I'm not sure that simply ordering the SunCoast package for the 4.0 RS is the way to go.......?? As an example, Ruf or RAC these days is suggesting their clutch package......?? Are there other recommendations for Sachs clutches with light-weight flywheels that are recommended as being better than the OEM 4.0 RS clutch and flywheel. I'm new to this.....I've had Boxters but just upgraded to a GT3 and this is somewhat intimidating because I want to make the proper upgrades. Please advise. Thanks