911GT3

Track-only 2010 GT3 non-RS; GMG RSS susp components, Guards LSD, getting some gearbox re-working, cup shifter cable, and next spring (no pun) replacing coil-overs. Can anyone provide track experience info on the KWs? Thanks.

TRAKCAR

Erik switched, went no faster, even after lots of adjusting and testing. I like PASM.
Certainly no expert, but I think most DE guys like me don't have the ability or patience to get the benefit of the small range where the shocks are set perfect for my driving style, track, tires and conditions that day.

Erik

I think the main problem was that I did really very little testing. I spent one day at VIR going thru these settings, but did not even play with front to rear differences (changed settings the same amount all around). Never really changed the settings anymore after initial setup, except for softening them a little for Sebring. I'm just not analitical enough to constantly test and tune, and under normal DE conditions it's hard to do since every time you go out the track conditions and tire conditions have changed. I too prefer PASM at this point

Veloce Raptor

Erik, IMO, the only way you can fast-track coming up to speed with a high end adjustable suspension like KW (with which I have a bunch of good experience) is by using a coach for a day. Otherwise, you may never be able to focus on what is important in learning to tune your new suspension, and may instead just flail about twirling ***** with little comfort...

997gt3north

Personally,and this is not what you asked, I would either:
1) stop with what you have already done
2) revalve your OE suspension for higher spring rates (keeps PASM - soft/hard)
3) get Ohlins

Your OE Bilstein PASM shocks are good shocks and PASM gives you 2 modes without giving you too many choices which you will never use in all likelihood. If you feel you want more spring rate because you use R6s or slicks than a revalve will work very well. If you want to tinker, Ohlin's are the gold standard - go big or go home in my opinion - and you will have no problem re-selling them.

I believe the Clubsport spring rates are 450/1050 if you care, Ohlin seems to be using 650/1300, your car I believe has OE rates of 280/660. Most people who re-valve run in the range of F=500-800, Rear 700-1000. Dan Jacobs shop is very well known for this upgrade in the 996gt3 community and he can talk you though all the spring rate choices should you care.

Erik

Agreed, and the need for lotttsss of tracktime so that conditions stay pretty consistent from session to session, along with the need to do some real data analysis to see where you're gaining and where you are loosing with certain settings.

senna

This sounds like a 2nd job...

aussie jimmy

i don't even know what setting mine are on.
the low-speed ride isn't very good, but they smooth out like velvet at high speed.
i like them but haven't tried the competition.

911SLOW

If you must buy from KW then the Manthey version is amazing both for the 996 and 997 GT cars.
Their proprietary setup, components and settings are worth the extra money.

The std KWs are average like most "supermarket" suspension components and most of the times the end result in the car's setup is worse than stock.

Just my 2c.

TRAKCAR

I have double adjustable koni's with 1200 lb springs in the old Mustang. In a POS like that it makes a huge difference because you can stand the car on the nose, or button down the rear or somewhere in between depending on track tires etc. but it simply is way too much tinkering for me. And the Mustang I did not even need to hack up.

Maybe if we can screw around while driving, we could tinker and have fun at the same time. but really I think Pasm is the way to go. I've never even really messed with sway bars, but the plan is to test and tune wing and sway bars in October at Sebring..

GT3DE

you get new shocks/springs when your laptime is as fast as your professional coach. you don't need them until then. nor can you tell the difference anyway until then.

aussie jimmy

my suspension guy has dealt with many cars on kw and he reckons the variants 1 and 2 are total crap not worth buying, whereas the variant 3 are a totally different build. don't know if manthey use the variant 3 as a basis, or the 'motorsport' line?

NJ-GT

+1

TRAKCAR

And what he says ^^

Nick Wong

Umm, I don't know about that. I managed to tune the shocks on my car to compensate for the overly stiff rear sway bar coupled with high rear spring rate, and retune it after I had installed the OE bar back in place. At Road America I backed off compression and increased rebound to settle the car and reduce the reaction to bump but it wasn't ideal and still extremely tail happy, ready to swap ends if you looked at it funny. Two months later, after I got the rear bar swapped out I started out at recommended settings and deviated slightly, up one click on compression and down one click on rebound, after deviating up to six clicks in either direction throughout the day. My rear shocks are two ways, and my front shocks are 4 way- fronts were fine with the settings I've been using, slightly more high speed rebound and slightly more high speed compression at Road America vs. Sebring, but overall quite good, much better than the high speed porpoising the car exhibited with the OE shocks and springs at Road America and Autobahn.