Cantrell rollbar for my GT3RS
#1
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I felt pretty foolish driving through Pacific Raceways T1 at 150MPH+ w/o a bar, so I did something about it. I looked at the various products available but opted for the Cantrell Motorsports rollbar:
- Lets me put my seat ALL the way back w/o compromising structural strength
- Safety-first design
- Excellent fitment into the car (very tight)
- Flexible design options (below)
- Any color option (I went w/ semi-gloss black)
- Colin's been my go-to-guy for 12 years
The seat can go ALL the way back w/ plenty of clearance. Note below how the bar is straight instead of curved behind the seat so structural strength is not compromised. Bar ties into rear posts and then through the floorboards, so drilling is required for main hoop uprights to be tied into the car. I can understand some folks might be uncomfortable w/ this because of resale, but if you’re putting a roll bar for go (no show) then my feeling is you should be putting safety first.
I asked Colin to add harness hoops and requested 0.125 wall thickness for main hoop (strength) and 0.095 for supporting and cross members (keep weight down).
A lot of guys w/ white cars go w/ white bars, but I wanted a black bar to blend in with the black interior.
A few photos shown below. For more photos and details, go here: http://fit4speed.net/?page_id=246&album=1&gallery=2
- Lets me put my seat ALL the way back w/o compromising structural strength
- Safety-first design
- Excellent fitment into the car (very tight)
- Flexible design options (below)
- Any color option (I went w/ semi-gloss black)
- Colin's been my go-to-guy for 12 years
The seat can go ALL the way back w/ plenty of clearance. Note below how the bar is straight instead of curved behind the seat so structural strength is not compromised. Bar ties into rear posts and then through the floorboards, so drilling is required for main hoop uprights to be tied into the car. I can understand some folks might be uncomfortable w/ this because of resale, but if you’re putting a roll bar for go (no show) then my feeling is you should be putting safety first.
I asked Colin to add harness hoops and requested 0.125 wall thickness for main hoop (strength) and 0.095 for supporting and cross members (keep weight down).
A lot of guys w/ white cars go w/ white bars, but I wanted a black bar to blend in with the black interior.
A few photos shown below. For more photos and details, go here: http://fit4speed.net/?page_id=246&album=1&gallery=2
#2
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when you say go through the floor boards and drilling required, did you drill holes through the floor and install bolts with nuts thus sandwiching the mount to floor? And if so did you drill through the plastic undertray or remove it to for the install and then put it back on after the job was complete to hide it?
Was any welding involved?
Was any welding involved?
#4
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Nice choice! I vowed to get more safety equipment once I saw an indicated 150 through T1 at Pacific(according to GPS though it's more like 140). It's nicely engineered and a plus is that it's quiet (lots of bars out there rattle and squeek which tends to drive me crazy).
#6
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Hi Izzone, fist let me complement you on your avatar ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Regarding your comment, if what I have is just a harness bar, what's your definition of a rollbar? My definition of harness bar is this.
Even amongst rollbars, this is one of the better ones I've seen. Its design mirrors most full bolt-in cages from the main hoop back. Having a full cage is not a path I'm interested in going down, even if it were a dedicated track car (which it's not). At that point, better to just have a racecar IMO.
Regarding install question, I didn't do anything but write a check
Cantrell did the work. Yes, through the floorboards and sandwiched. Trays were removed so, yes, the job is hidden (I can't imagine any even semi-competent shop would do otherwise.) The only welding involved was on the bar itself. There was no welding of the bar to the car.
-Roland.
[EDIT] P.S. Izzone, please revert back to your previous avatar
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Regarding your comment, if what I have is just a harness bar, what's your definition of a rollbar? My definition of harness bar is this.
Even amongst rollbars, this is one of the better ones I've seen. Its design mirrors most full bolt-in cages from the main hoop back. Having a full cage is not a path I'm interested in going down, even if it were a dedicated track car (which it's not). At that point, better to just have a racecar IMO.
Regarding install question, I didn't do anything but write a check
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Roland.
[EDIT] P.S. Izzone, please revert back to your previous avatar
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#7
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Regarding install question, I didn't do anything but write a check
Cantrell did the work. Yes, through the floorboards and sandwiched. Trays were removed so, yes, the job is hidden (I can't imagine any even semi-competent shop would do otherwise.) The only welding involved was on the bar itself. There was no welding of the bar to the car.
-Roland.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Roland.
My only advice is silicone the holes as moisture can still get in the cabin and cause the foam underlay to remain sweaty and thereby cause your bolts to rust including the fresh cut bolt hole edges in the floor.
PS, i have have seen others sandwich the undertray with the same type of install which to me is just lazy.
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#8
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My only advice is silicone the holes as moisture can still get in the cabin and cause the foam underlay to remain sweaty and thereby cause your bolts to rust including the fresh cut bolt hole edges in the floor.
#9
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Hi Izzone, fist let me complement you on your avatar ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Regarding your comment, if what I have is just a harness bar, what's your definition of a rollbar? My definition of harness bar is this.
Even amongst rollbars, this is one of the better ones I've seen. Its design mirrors most full bolt-in cages from the main hoop back. Having a full cage is not a path I'm interested in going down, even if it were a dedicated track car (which it's not). At that point, better to just have a racecar IMO.
Regarding install question, I didn't do anything but write a check
Cantrell did the work. Yes, through the floorboards and sandwiched. Trays were removed so, yes, the job is hidden (I can't imagine any even semi-competent shop would do otherwise.) The only welding involved was on the bar itself. There was no welding of the bar to the car.
-Roland.
[EDIT] P.S. Izzone, please revert back to your previous avatar![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Regarding your comment, if what I have is just a harness bar, what's your definition of a rollbar? My definition of harness bar is this.
Even amongst rollbars, this is one of the better ones I've seen. Its design mirrors most full bolt-in cages from the main hoop back. Having a full cage is not a path I'm interested in going down, even if it were a dedicated track car (which it's not). At that point, better to just have a racecar IMO.
Regarding install question, I didn't do anything but write a check
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Roland.
[EDIT] P.S. Izzone, please revert back to your previous avatar
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Half cage is better than none, but if u roll the car the front will crush.
Just depends on how overboard you want to go
#10
Race Director
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RJA...nicely done. My RSS bar connects just like yours and was a major buying point for me...like you. When I go sell or trade my car in I will seal up the holes...easy done.
tscracing1, yes just remove the underbody tray to drill through.
tscracing1, yes just remove the underbody tray to drill through.
#11
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If not during a roll that bar will go thru the tub
#12
Race Director