Thinking of a used 2007 GT3.... What mods for the track? Is an RS worth it?
#1
Thinking of a used 2007 GT3.... What mods for the track? Is an RS worth it?
After I blew my 997s Engine, I’ve decided that line of engine just isn’t up to the task. So now I’m looking at buying a used 2007 GT3. Seems like I can find quite a few under 70k now.
Q1) Is a 2007 GT3RS any different on the track than the GT3? From what I’ve researched, it seems questionable.
Q2) Is a 2007 RS likely to be worth much more than a standard GT3 in say 5 years? If so, any idea how much?
Q3) Are there any shortcomings of this engine that need to be addresses before I hammer on it?
Q4) What basic track oriented mods should I do? (I’ve already got a roll bar and GT2 Seats/harness). Say I’m only willing to spend $5k to $10k on mods.
Q1) Is a 2007 GT3RS any different on the track than the GT3? From what I’ve researched, it seems questionable.
Q2) Is a 2007 RS likely to be worth much more than a standard GT3 in say 5 years? If so, any idea how much?
Q3) Are there any shortcomings of this engine that need to be addresses before I hammer on it?
Q4) What basic track oriented mods should I do? (I’ve already got a roll bar and GT2 Seats/harness). Say I’m only willing to spend $5k to $10k on mods.
#2
Jared, in our local Suncoast PCA Club there is a guy selling his GT3RS 22k miles, full clear wrap pristine look car for $78k. It is Silver with Orange details. It's list not he Suncoast website when you download this months Profile magazine. Orbit has a Orange RS with suspension mods.
Last edited by mdrums; 07-14-2012 at 01:46 AM.
#3
I know how you feel, and you are making the right decision.
Take my advice and do one of the following:
1. Buy a used 997 GT3 - RS if you can afford it
2. Buy a used 996/997 Cup Car (996 cup 60-80k) (997 cup $90-150k)
If you plan to just do DE and time trails buy the street car. If you plan to race buy the cup car.
Take my advice and do one of the following:
1. Buy a used 997 GT3 - RS if you can afford it
2. Buy a used 996/997 Cup Car (996 cup 60-80k) (997 cup $90-150k)
If you plan to just do DE and time trails buy the street car. If you plan to race buy the cup car.
#4
A 997S has a cheap engine, cheap to rebuild and cheap to replace. A proper rebuild can give you a reliable and long running engine.
You'll need to open your wallet, because purchase price of a GT3 is just the beginning. To keep it running it takes more than twice the money (if tracked) than a 997S.
The Aero in RS helps plenty at high speed turns. At Cal Speedway I carried 8mph higher minimum speeds at the bowl in my 07RS compared to my tricked 04GT3. The LWFW in RS is nice too. The RS look is awesome, best ever looking GT3 made.
A1: very little, more noticeable on high speed turns.
A2: RS will always be more valuable than the open-top-disgraced-997.1GT3
A3: Yes, welding the coolant fittings, fixing the RMS leaks.
A4: Replace LSD + Toe links and monoball dog bones + side mufflers delete + extra brake cooling front and rear + GMG sway bars + (out of budget: stiffer springs and re-valving on stock PASM shocks)
You'll need to open your wallet, because purchase price of a GT3 is just the beginning. To keep it running it takes more than twice the money (if tracked) than a 997S.
The Aero in RS helps plenty at high speed turns. At Cal Speedway I carried 8mph higher minimum speeds at the bowl in my 07RS compared to my tricked 04GT3. The LWFW in RS is nice too. The RS look is awesome, best ever looking GT3 made.
A1: very little, more noticeable on high speed turns.
A2: RS will always be more valuable than the open-top-disgraced-997.1GT3
A3: Yes, welding the coolant fittings, fixing the RMS leaks.
A4: Replace LSD + Toe links and monoball dog bones + side mufflers delete + extra brake cooling front and rear + GMG sway bars + (out of budget: stiffer springs and re-valving on stock PASM shocks)
#5
Q1) Minor differences between 7.1 GT3 vs. RS on track.
Q2) I would guess the RS would be worth $7 - $10K more after 5 years.
Q3) If you buy the Orange RS one from Orbit (which you should), there's nothing to worry about.
Q4) Again, the Orange RS from Orbit is exactly what you should look at. Owned by a great driver, all the right track mods already done, and maintained perfectly by Orbit. Always have piece of mind buying from a well known car on RS,... that's what I did.
Q2) I would guess the RS would be worth $7 - $10K more after 5 years.
Q3) If you buy the Orange RS one from Orbit (which you should), there's nothing to worry about.
Q4) Again, the Orange RS from Orbit is exactly what you should look at. Owned by a great driver, all the right track mods already done, and maintained perfectly by Orbit. Always have piece of mind buying from a well known car on RS,... that's what I did.
#7
A 997S has a cheap engine, cheap to rebuild and cheap to replace. A proper rebuild can give you a reliable and long running engine.
You'll need to open your wallet, because purchase price of a GT3 is just the beginning. To keep it running it takes more than twice the money (if tracked) than a 997S.
The Aero in RS helps plenty at high speed turns. At Cal Speedway I carried 8mph higher minimum speeds at the bowl in my 07RS compared to my tricked 04GT3. The LWFW in RS is nice too. The RS look is awesome, best ever looking GT3 made.
A1: very little, more noticeable on high speed turns.
A2: RS will always be more valuable than the open-top-disgraced-997.1GT3
A3: Yes, welding the coolant fittings, fixing the RMS leaks.
A4: Replace LSD + Toe links and monoball dog bones + side mufflers delete + extra brake cooling front and rear + GMG sway bars + (out of budget: stiffer springs and re-valving on stock PASM shocks)
You'll need to open your wallet, because purchase price of a GT3 is just the beginning. To keep it running it takes more than twice the money (if tracked) than a 997S.
The Aero in RS helps plenty at high speed turns. At Cal Speedway I carried 8mph higher minimum speeds at the bowl in my 07RS compared to my tricked 04GT3. The LWFW in RS is nice too. The RS look is awesome, best ever looking GT3 made.
A1: very little, more noticeable on high speed turns.
A2: RS will always be more valuable than the open-top-disgraced-997.1GT3
A3: Yes, welding the coolant fittings, fixing the RMS leaks.
A4: Replace LSD + Toe links and monoball dog bones + side mufflers delete + extra brake cooling front and rear + GMG sway bars + (out of budget: stiffer springs and re-valving on stock PASM shocks)
I still prefer driving a 996.2 GT3 over a 997.1 GT3, but the 997.1 is sure the better looker! Personally, I think the RS will hold more value over time as 1) they made less of them, and 2) it is the first RS to come stateside since the '73 2.7.
-B
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#8
as others have mentioned, RS is not much material difference aside from the high speed aero. If you're going to track it and need the high speed aero (and the LWFW), it's surely worth it to get an RS instead of adding the aero-addenda to a vanilla GT3. If you're driving it for fun and not looking to set laptimes, I'd find it hard to justify a 73k GT3 vs a 93k RS with same kilometres. Obviously the RS will hold it's value better.
#9
If money is a factor, then I would get the regular gt3. Erik's pumpking at Orbit is a good deal as it's got all the track prep already done.
However, if you don't have the money then you don't have it. And with that being said, the regular gt3 is still a tremendously capable car that will be faster than 90% of the cars out there.
However, if you don't have the money then you don't have it. And with that being said, the regular gt3 is still a tremendously capable car that will be faster than 90% of the cars out there.
#11
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Somewhere in a galaxy far, far away....
a plain jane 2007 GT3 will suit your needs and budget.
All 2007-2008 GT3 are prone to rear main seal leaks. Most are repaired or at least repaired to the point they only weap. Some are perfect and some have had full warranty replaced crank cases.
Service records and PPI is your friend when buying a GT3.
For the track you will at least want rear toe links to better hold alignment and GT2 sway bar to eliminate push.
A proper LSD is important for track as everybody has mentioned.
The coolant pipe fitting failure is not uncommon and worth doing for piece of mind too.
SRF brake fluid and proper track pads go without say.
The RS will always have a market, even 20 years from now due in part of colors, production numbers and of course wide body appeal.
The RS on the track is nice with LWFW, aero and abilty to install full factory roll cage thanks to no sunroof.
If you afford the little extra for a RS it is a nice porsche if you do not mind the crazy color combos on the street.......
I strongly suggest the orange car at Orbit. It has EVERYTHING alrready completed and for a great price.
You only need to add gas and go.
All 2007-2008 GT3 are prone to rear main seal leaks. Most are repaired or at least repaired to the point they only weap. Some are perfect and some have had full warranty replaced crank cases.
Service records and PPI is your friend when buying a GT3.
For the track you will at least want rear toe links to better hold alignment and GT2 sway bar to eliminate push.
A proper LSD is important for track as everybody has mentioned.
The coolant pipe fitting failure is not uncommon and worth doing for piece of mind too.
SRF brake fluid and proper track pads go without say.
The RS will always have a market, even 20 years from now due in part of colors, production numbers and of course wide body appeal.
The RS on the track is nice with LWFW, aero and abilty to install full factory roll cage thanks to no sunroof.
If you afford the little extra for a RS it is a nice porsche if you do not mind the crazy color combos on the street.......
I strongly suggest the orange car at Orbit. It has EVERYTHING alrready completed and for a great price.
You only need to add gas and go.
#12
My suggestion?
Ignore all the modding advice.
Drive. Then drive faster. Then faster still.
Learn. The limits of the car. How to spot the line and stick to it. Weight transfer.
Hire a coach. Someone really good. Watch in awe as he smashes the best time you've managed in months of driving to smithereens with you sitting in the passenger seat (weight).
Then modify the car.
Ignore all the modding advice.
Drive. Then drive faster. Then faster still.
Learn. The limits of the car. How to spot the line and stick to it. Weight transfer.
Hire a coach. Someone really good. Watch in awe as he smashes the best time you've managed in months of driving to smithereens with you sitting in the passenger seat (weight).
Then modify the car.
#13
Does the .2 RS also have an aero advantage over the non-RS .2 GT3? If so, can someone explain to me why. With respect to aero, the RS has a wider rear end (first guess would be more wind resistance) and larger wing (that makes sense with better downforce). Both have underside covered. The RS of course has wider track which may make it more stable, but I am trying to figure out the aero advantage discussed multiple times here. Just trying to learn more as I mod my .2 non RS. Thanks.
#14
Does the .2 RS also have an aero advantage over the non-RS .2 GT3? If so, can someone explain to me why. With respect to aero, the RS has a wider rear end (first guess would be more wind resistance) and larger wing (that makes sense with better downforce). Both have underside covered. The RS of course has wider track which may make it more stable, but I am trying to figure out the aero advantage discussed multiple times here. Just trying to learn more as I mod my .2 non RS. Thanks.