PCCB vs STEEL 2010+
05-19-2012, 08:08 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Why would you ever need it? I have never been out braked at the track and I am still running even the OEM Pagid pads (which are actually RS-19s).
Because both the PCCBs and steel brakes use the exact same size rotors and calipers, the only real advantage is rotor weight with PCCBs. There is a major disadvantage to PCCBs if you track them, replacing them. They are really expensive (currently about $18K a set from Suncoast) to replace. If you track them a lot, they will wear and you will have to replace them. Stick with OEM 997.2 steel rears and save your money versus an aftermarket replacement. The OEM rear rotors are very durable and seem to last forever. I have 20K miles and over 20 track days and my rear still look good. In fact they barely have any cracks in them at all.
The fronts on the other hand tend to last for about 12 track days because they start developing cracks that effect the structure of the rotor. You will notice minor cracks after 3-4 track days. Add a few more and you will start getting structural stress cracks between the holes. From my experience, you get 2 sets of front pads out of a set of front rotors then it is time to replace them. Best option for the front rotors are aftermarket floating steel rotors. I have a set of the 2nd gen PFC front rotors that have the holes exactly match to the OEM drive pins. The surface on these rotors lasts about twice as long as the OEM fronts.
Because both the PCCBs and steel brakes use the exact same size rotors and calipers, the only real advantage is rotor weight with PCCBs. There is a major disadvantage to PCCBs if you track them, replacing them. They are really expensive (currently about $18K a set from Suncoast) to replace. If you track them a lot, they will wear and you will have to replace them. Stick with OEM 997.2 steel rears and save your money versus an aftermarket replacement. The OEM rear rotors are very durable and seem to last forever. I have 20K miles and over 20 track days and my rear still look good. In fact they barely have any cracks in them at all.
The fronts on the other hand tend to last for about 12 track days because they start developing cracks that effect the structure of the rotor. You will notice minor cracks after 3-4 track days. Add a few more and you will start getting structural stress cracks between the holes. From my experience, you get 2 sets of front pads out of a set of front rotors then it is time to replace them. Best option for the front rotors are aftermarket floating steel rotors. I have a set of the 2nd gen PFC front rotors that have the holes exactly match to the OEM drive pins. The surface on these rotors lasts about twice as long as the OEM fronts.
I just think the OEM rotors are expensive, heavy, the holes clog easily, and don't last long. I have had ZERO complants with my full StopTech STR set up, it truly an upgrade from the OEM Steel set up.
Cheers!
Doug N
Last edited by DJN; 05-20-2012 at 01:52 AM.
05-19-2012, 09:52 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
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Not a fan of StopTech at all.
CCB rotors are quite good. The thermal characteristics are much more suited to rotor material than steel, but when I switch out it will be PF or Brembo steel replacements unless I find more CCB take offs.
05-20-2012, 12:25 AM
#20
The full Stoptech STR kit is basically a race set up and about $8000, in my humble opinion you can't buy a better brake set up for the money for the 997.2 GT's, and it has upsized rear calipers. StopTech rotor rings are cheap too! Sure you can send BIG $$$ on a full Brembo GTR kit or a small amount to buy steel rotors for your OEM pad wedgifiers (i.e. the calipers flex under full force), the choice is yours.
Girlie yellow calipers, not for me!
Cheers!
Doug N.
Girlie yellow calipers, not for me!
Cheers!
Doug N.
That's the point. Why spend the $$$ ?
Stock calipers work perfectly fine and we don't need to modify pads to make them work, or are limited to stop tech rotors.
Can run OEMs, brembos, ap, PFCs, roots without modification, and also run PFC pads without mods.
That's enough for me.
05-20-2012, 06:51 AM
#21
Racer
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There's no need to replace the calipers for track-use on GT2/3s.
I have many friends running GT3s on track and I ran a 630bhp RufGT2 on track for 5 years. Several of these guys are Carrera Cup Winners or Nurburgring 24 Hr racers in GT3s so drive hard and fast, every single one has replaced the stock rotors to PFC/Alcon/AP for better longevity and to get slotted so as to remove the hole-filling issue, not one ever replaced the calipers.
There's no doubt there are better calipers out there, but it's an indulgence, not a necessity.
I have many friends running GT3s on track and I ran a 630bhp RufGT2 on track for 5 years. Several of these guys are Carrera Cup Winners or Nurburgring 24 Hr racers in GT3s so drive hard and fast, every single one has replaced the stock rotors to PFC/Alcon/AP for better longevity and to get slotted so as to remove the hole-filling issue, not one ever replaced the calipers.
There's no doubt there are better calipers out there, but it's an indulgence, not a necessity.
05-20-2012, 08:19 AM
#23
There's no need to replace the calipers for track-use on GT2/3s.
I have many friends running GT3s on track and I ran a 630bhp RufGT2 on track for 5 years. Several of these guys are Carrera Cup Winners or Nurburgring 24 Hr racers in GT3s so drive hard and fast, every single one has replaced the stock rotors to PFC/Alcon/AP for better longevity and to get slotted so as to remove the hole-filling issue, not one ever replaced the calipers.
There's no doubt there are better calipers out there, but it's an indulgence, not a necessity.
I have many friends running GT3s on track and I ran a 630bhp RufGT2 on track for 5 years. Several of these guys are Carrera Cup Winners or Nurburgring 24 Hr racers in GT3s so drive hard and fast, every single one has replaced the stock rotors to PFC/Alcon/AP for better longevity and to get slotted so as to remove the hole-filling issue, not one ever replaced the calipers.
There's no doubt there are better calipers out there, but it's an indulgence, not a necessity.
Also: ABS or ESP can destroy a PCCB rotor. ESP can be turned off, ABS can't.
You have several types of Cup cars ( Cup / S / R ..). Some of those have (race) ABS fitted, some don't. The ones that don't are the ones that are used with PCCB in some competitions (if I am not mistaken they are used in the Porsche Supercup). This was explained to me by someone at Manthey Racing.
