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Joining the club-- with a few suspension setup questions......

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Old 05-07-2012 | 12:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by savyboy
MPSC work very well with stock alignment settings. And threshold braking will be more settled with less camber, and the car will be less darty on the street. Sways as noted above is good. I haven't touched the alignment on my 4.0 and it is perfect for my 50/50.
Do you happen to know what the stock settings are (approximately) off the top of your head? I'm most interested in camber. There were a few threadson Rennlist when these cars first came out discussing suspension setup (can't find the thread right now for some reason) and to my recollection it seemed people were starting with the lower camber factory settings initially but as time went on there was a general trend towards dialing in more.

Also, what's involved in lowering these cars? Is it a simple setting or does it necessitate new springs?

Finally, does the car need to be realigned every time the sway bars are adjusted?

As I said before I'm not going to do anything beyond the toe links and alignment until I know the car, so no lowering or dogbones/monoball ends yet. I'm just curious how it all works.

Thanks again.
Old 05-07-2012 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CRex
A 3-part torque wrench is definitely in your future! This is what I use, pretty reasonably priced:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-to...enches/=hff8wz
CRex-- the link didn't work for some reason and took me to the general torque wrench page on the McMaster site rather than to the page for your wrench. Would you mind clarifying which wrench you use? Thx
Old 05-07-2012 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Laertes
CRex-- the link didn't work for some reason and took me to the general torque wrench page on the McMaster site rather than to the page for your wrench. Would you mind clarifying which wrench you use? Thx
Sorry, correct link should be as follows:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5387A56

Fixed Head
3/4" 200 to 600 ft.-lbs. SKU 5387A56 $373.92
Old 05-07-2012 | 01:37 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Laertes
Do you happen to know what the stock settings are (approximately) off the top of your head?
they should be in the back of your owners manual, in the tech specs section.

previous poster made a good point about getting your front mounts rotated, worth doing that way you can dial in more -ve camber later ... some dealers
do not know about this (mine)


Originally Posted by Laertes
I'm most interested in camber. There were a few threadson Rennlist when these cars first came out discussing suspension setup (can't find the thread right now for some reason) and to my recollection it seemed people were starting with the lower camber factory settings initially but as time went on there was a general trend towards dialing in more.
correct!

Originally Posted by Laertes
Also, what's involved in lowering these cars? Is it a simple setting or does it necessitate new springs?
shock bodies are threaded so the ride height can be adjusted accordingly (normally during a corner balance also)

Originally Posted by Laertes
Finally, does the car need to be realigned every time the sway bars are adjusted?
I dont believe so, if you DIY adjust, make sure that the suspension is equally loaded on either side of the car/bar however...

Originally Posted by Laertes
As I said before I'm not going to do anything beyond the toe links and alignment until I know the car, so no lowering or dogbones/monoball ends yet. I'm just curious how it all works.

Thanks again.
replacing the rear control arms with RSS really makes a significant difference in the cars stability during cornering... talk to Sharkwerks about a pkg deal on the RSS components...
Old 05-07-2012 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Laertes

Oh-- one other thing. What is involved in switching the roll bar settings? Is it just a matter of jacking the car up, removing the wheel, and unbolting and rebolting the bar?
That is pretty much it.
Old 05-07-2012 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by drl
That is pretty much it.
Also, when adjusting, adjust one or the other and drive the car to experience the change it makes in the handling... before making additional changes...

if you ever want to understand just what the bars do for handling (and are mad enough to try, I do not recommend it) go to full soft on the front and fully stiff on the rear, I tried this once (at Bedford autodrome in the UK) "loose" does not fully describe the *** puckering experience of driving with the car like that!
Old 05-07-2012 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
Also, when adjusting, adjust one or the other and drive the car to experience the change it makes in the handling... before making additional changes...

if you ever want to understand just what the bars do for handling (and are mad enough to try, I do not recommend it) go to full soft on the front and fully stiff on the rear, I tried this once (at Bedford autodrome in the UK) "loose" does not fully describe the *** puckering experience of driving with the car like that!
I'm probably not quite crazy enough to try that.....

So, does the suggestion for bar settings above (middle or one from soft up front, middle in the back) fit with the general consensus? Though far from a pro, I do have a fair amount of experience on the track and would rather have a neutral car than one set up to understeer for safety.
Old 05-07-2012 | 03:31 PM
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Neutral is kinda subjective. Each driver has their own preference. Some guys here think oversteer is neutral like me(full to one off stiff rear -one from soft front). Anyway I would start the weekend with a wee bit understeer and adjust accordingly whichever suits your style. One from stiff front and one from soft rear is where I start- no drama other then dreaded understeer and very hard to spin. Mike




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