Joining the club-- with a few suspension setup questions......
#16
Also, what's involved in lowering these cars? Is it a simple setting or does it necessitate new springs?
Finally, does the car need to be realigned every time the sway bars are adjusted?
As I said before I'm not going to do anything beyond the toe links and alignment until I know the car, so no lowering or dogbones/monoball ends yet. I'm just curious how it all works.
Thanks again.
#17
A 3-part torque wrench is definitely in your future! This is what I use, pretty reasonably priced:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-to...enches/=hff8wz
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-to...enches/=hff8wz
#18
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5387A56
Fixed Head
3/4" 200 to 600 ft.-lbs. SKU 5387A56 $373.92
#19
previous poster made a good point about getting your front mounts rotated, worth doing that way you can dial in more -ve camber later ... some dealers
do not know about this (mine)
I'm most interested in camber. There were a few threadson Rennlist when these cars first came out discussing suspension setup (can't find the thread right now for some reason) and to my recollection it seemed people were starting with the lower camber factory settings initially but as time went on there was a general trend towards dialing in more.
replacing the rear control arms with RSS really makes a significant difference in the cars stability during cornering... talk to Sharkwerks about a pkg deal on the RSS components...
#20
#21
Also, when adjusting, adjust one or the other and drive the car to experience the change it makes in the handling... before making additional changes...
if you ever want to understand just what the bars do for handling (and are mad enough to try, I do not recommend it) go to full soft on the front and fully stiff on the rear, I tried this once (at Bedford autodrome in the UK) "loose" does not fully describe the *** puckering experience of driving with the car like that!
if you ever want to understand just what the bars do for handling (and are mad enough to try, I do not recommend it) go to full soft on the front and fully stiff on the rear, I tried this once (at Bedford autodrome in the UK) "loose" does not fully describe the *** puckering experience of driving with the car like that!
#22
Also, when adjusting, adjust one or the other and drive the car to experience the change it makes in the handling... before making additional changes...
if you ever want to understand just what the bars do for handling (and are mad enough to try, I do not recommend it) go to full soft on the front and fully stiff on the rear, I tried this once (at Bedford autodrome in the UK) "loose" does not fully describe the *** puckering experience of driving with the car like that!
if you ever want to understand just what the bars do for handling (and are mad enough to try, I do not recommend it) go to full soft on the front and fully stiff on the rear, I tried this once (at Bedford autodrome in the UK) "loose" does not fully describe the *** puckering experience of driving with the car like that!
So, does the suggestion for bar settings above (middle or one from soft up front, middle in the back) fit with the general consensus? Though far from a pro, I do have a fair amount of experience on the track and would rather have a neutral car than one set up to understeer for safety.
#23
Neutral is kinda subjective. Each driver has their own preference. Some guys here think oversteer is neutral like me(full to one off stiff rear -one from soft front). Anyway I would start the weekend with a wee bit understeer and adjust accordingly whichever suits your style. One from stiff front and one from soft rear is where I start- no drama other then dreaded understeer and very hard to spin. Mike