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Michelin PSS .1 GT3 SWall FLEX

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Old 02-19-2012, 09:32 PM
  #31  
speedyralph
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Originally Posted by tcsracing1
these could have been flipped prior to the cords showing..... Would have lasted the day...
Originally Posted by tcsracing1
these were not flipped in time...
Good reference. Thanks

Originally Posted by Nick Wong
Now he's complaining that the new tires stick too much even though they supposedly have sidewalls that are too soft to the touch.
They do grip and thats great, but the *** feels like if the sway bar was missing. It kills your confidence, but your adrenaline pulls you thru it.

Last edited by speedyralph; 02-19-2012 at 09:52 PM.
Old 02-19-2012, 10:36 PM
  #32  
Nick Wong
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My point is, you have so much wrong with your car that you shouldn't blame a new set of rear tires for your perceived problem.
Old 02-19-2012, 10:36 PM
  #33  
997gt3north
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Please, please, please listen to me - please.
It is impossible to drive a GT3 and get honest feedback with what you have - impossible.
Do not judge the car as it is now.
Old worn front tires of one brand, new rears of a different brand - this is the absolute worst setup to possibly get reliable feedback - the 100% worst.
If you had 4 new tire of the same type, scuffed properly, at optimal temps then and only then can you comment.
There isn't a single GT3 owner that I have ever met who actually tracks their car that I could possibly imagine that would not agree with me as we all have learned that the car needs to be in balance to perform well - if one of the ends is not acting well the car just does not work - it is only when the car is in balance car you drive it very aggressively and be rewarded.

Think about what you have done - beat to **** front tires and oozing release agent full tread rears - I'm surprised you don't kill your self - the only reason you didn't is because the car would have felt like total and complete fvcking crap so you just couldn't do anything and you now think the car sucks.

Back to basics
- matching tires of the same age and tread depth similarly heat cycled
- an alignment that you can tell us about

It should tell you something if a car is pushing with 'better' tires on the front than on the rear. The very fact that it was pushing with these soft sidewall PSS rear tires as you said that apparently weren't showing any wear is basic proof that the PSS rears were vastly outperforming your dead fronts - and yet your comments are about the PSS and not the way past dead OE fronts.

No one is going to say that a brand new set of OE Cups aren't better on the track than PSS tires - but your current setup would rank 0 out of 10 in terms of optimal - and just to highlight the point, your 0 is a long way even from what I would say is 1 out of 10.

I won't even address the fact that you 'lowered' the car - what are the exact measurements, what did you do to the rake, etc, etc, etc.

A GT3, as I think you just learned from a bad setup, doesn't work. A well setup GT3 is magical.
Old 02-19-2012, 11:04 PM
  #34  
speedyralph
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Originally Posted by Nick Wong
My point is, you have so much wrong with your car that you shouldn't blame a new set of rear tires for your perceived problem.
Your completely right, I can't wait to get my car up to par.

Originally Posted by 997gt3north
Please, please, please listen to me - please.
It is impossible to drive a GT3 and get honest feedback with what you have - impossible.
Do not judge the car as it is now.
Old worn front tires of one brand, new rears of a different brand - this is the absolute worst setup to possibly get reliable feedback - the 100% worst.
If you had 4 new tire of the same type, scuffed properly, at optimal temps then and only then can you comment.
There isn't a single GT3 owner that I have ever met who actually tracks their car that I could possibly imagine that would not agree with me as we all have learned that the car needs to be in balance to perform well - if one of the ends is not acting well the car just does not work - it is only when the car is in balance car you drive it very aggressively and be rewarded.

Think about what you have done - beat to **** front tires and oozing release agent full tread rears - I'm surprised you don't kill your self - the only reason you didn't is because the car would have felt like total and complete fvcking crap so you just couldn't do anything and you now think the car sucks.

Back to basics
- matching tires of the same age and tread depth similarly heat cycled
- an alignment that you can tell us about

It should tell you something if a car is pushing with 'better' tires on the front than on the rear. The very fact that it was pushing with these soft sidewall PSS rear tires as you said that apparently weren't showing any wear is basic proof that the PSS rears were vastly outperforming your dead fronts - and yet your comments are about the PSS and not the way past dead OE fronts.

No one is going to say that a brand new set of OE Cups aren't better on the track than PSS tires - but your current setup would rank 0 out of 10 in terms of optimal - and just to highlight the point, your 0 is a long way even from what I would say is 1 out of 10.

I won't even address the fact that you 'lowered' the car - what are the exact measurements, what did you do to the rake, etc, etc, etc.

A GT3, as I think you just learned from a bad setup, doesn't work. A well setup GT3 is magical.
Point taken.

I will correct all this with a new set of tires and chassis setup, balanced, etc.. at Orbit Racing this week.

But, please let me say this, when the car had the ride height that I bought the car with, it handled great with the cup tires in the street, although it had waaay too much air in them. The second I pulled off the tire shop with the rear pss's at 43psi, the rear end started dancing all over the highway over 60mph.

When I got to point B, I measured my other previously tracked purpose GT3's shocks with points of references on the strut tower and copied that setup along with both sway bar positions to this current car. I then drove home, about 10 mls with several roads I know pretty well and the dancing minimized by 40%. I then posted this thread and the next morning I adjusted the psi to 29/31. I drove off in the morning and the dancing minimized again another 30%, but it never went away.

As the rears lid up at the track today, the wobbling got worse and worse.

I got your point, very clearly and I appreciate all the information. I'm just typing my wack *** feedback. I'm cuban and some times we do **** very rustic, as you can tell.

This is what I managed to do today:


Last edited by speedyralph; 02-19-2012 at 11:53 PM.
Old 02-20-2012, 10:30 AM
  #35  
85Gold
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Don't know about tires but you are way way early turning in on turns 6 and 8. Not 100% comparison but I was on PSS @ CMP Sunday in the cold and wet and they were awesome on a 3600# Boss 302.

Peter
Old 02-20-2012, 10:36 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 85Gold
Don't know about tires but you are way way early turning in on turns 6 and 8. Not 100% comparison but I was on PSS @ CMP Sunday in the cold and wet and they were awesome on a 3600# Boss 302.

Peter
Peter, I couldn't square the turns out. My car has the worst setup known to porsche. It was pushing on the turns I mentioned above. If I didn't attack the turns nor put the inside wheels over the apex the car wouldn't rotate.

That isn't the line around Homestead. Hopefully, If I get my car setup up properly this week, I'll post new vids of the proper way around Homestead.

Ralph
Old 02-20-2012, 11:00 AM
  #37  
997gt3north
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Ralph,

Hang in there - if the car is pushing like crazy then it is a really frustrating to drive - although easier than if your rear is coming around every corner - though this can at least be fun if you allow it to be.

Just want to say that I have lived through, in different ways, everything you are now going through when I first got the car 4+ years ago - an as delivered OE car the ploughed like a pig, changing alignments to fix that + GT2 rear sway bar to eventually get the car where 'I' like it. I did live the tires shot at one end to highlight what you are going through - my R888 rears lost grip and the car went crazy - from perfectly neutral as I like it to massive oversteer on every corner. A top pro was there that day and happened to be driving the car as the tires started to go bad and he said the car was crazy loose - and that he could be so much faster if I softend up the rear, dropped the rear ride height for more grip, stiffened front bar slightly so I could enter corners with more aggressive trail braking, etc, etc, etc. I put a new set of Hoosier R6s on for the next track day and same pro was there - he said the car was Perfect. Lessened learned - you need 4 new tires to set up a car or you will be chasing your tail.

Paul
Old 02-20-2012, 11:54 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FFaust
So, you are still running the Cups in the front? Could that also give you a bit of funkyness?

Not something that I would do without thinking.
I agree, this is likely the problem.
Old 02-20-2012, 05:06 PM
  #39  
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Hello guys, my friend donated this tires to me. Their cracked, but do you guys think that after I scuff them on the street they'll be good for the track?

If yes, I could put back my rear old cups (inverted) from post #11 and head to the track!

The last two pictures are as cracked as the first two...
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:13 PM
  #40  
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I've never seen those light cracks before and our tires are 5 years old.

The insides look OK?
Old 02-20-2012, 05:17 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I've never seen those light cracks before and our tires are 5 years old.

The insides look OK?
The thread canals are badly cracked, but the threads aren't.
Old 02-20-2012, 05:29 PM
  #42  
Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by mdrums
WAY...to much air pressure!

Also new tires have to wear off the mold release so they can be a little squirrely and the tread blocks are deeper that MPSC so those can be moving around some maybe.

Drive it 500 miles and I bet it gets a lot better.
+1 and +1 !!!
Old 02-20-2012, 05:40 PM
  #43  
Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by speedyralph
Hello guys, my friend donated this tires to me. Their cracked, but do you guys think that after I scuff them on the street they'll be good for the track?

If yes, I could put back my rear old cups (inverted) from post #11 and head to the track!

The last two pictures are as cracked as the first two...
let me ask you this, since you and your $xx,xxx GT3 are connected to planet earth by the contact patches of these tyres ... are you confident that these cracks are "cosmetic" and not "structural"???

This is a bit like a similar question; you get on a plane, sit in a window seat, look out the window and see cracks on the skin of the wings ... cosmetic or structural, are we flying today?

Old 02-20-2012, 06:07 PM
  #44  
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Great point, the cracks look cosmetic.

Originally Posted by Larry Cable
let me ask you this, since you and your $xx,xxx GT3 are connected to planet earth by the contact patches of these tyres ... are you confident that these cracks are "cosmetic" and not "structural"???

This is a bit like a similar question; you get on a plane, sit in a window seat, look out the window and see cracks on the skin of the wings ... cosmetic or structural, are we flying today?

Old 02-20-2012, 06:25 PM
  #45  
Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by speedyralph
Great point, the cracks look cosmetic.
I hope so!


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