rideau

I attended a brake pad seminar given by the Director of Race Operations of Pagid in the spring of this year at Sports Car Boutique in Toronto. One question asked was "what pads should I use with ceramic brakes?"
Answer "stock pads only"

GTSilver

Just came back from the dealer, the 997 GT2 has brake ducts but relatively smaller than the GT3 RS, and GT3 RS ducts cant be retrofitted because of the turbos and intercooler piping.

I think there is an aftermarket solution for a bigger brake duct to cool down the rotors, because i want to change mine as one of them has been damaged i guess from road debris.

Regarding pads i changed my mind as I dont want to ruin my PCCB rotors and will run stock pads and for the next track season I will change to steel rotors.

TTurbine - I never knew that the GT2 RS pads were different I will have to check on that.

scott40

That's my understanding as well. I've had no issues with the P40 pads on track.

savyboy

NOT correct, sorry ALL 2010+ GT cars use the same pad numbers, front and rear, for PCCB.

GT3DE

hmmm. I did over 30 track days this year with PCCB and stock pads (Suncoast has cheapest I have found at a little over $700 a set delivered). The fronts taper so I flip them after around 6 to 10 sessions. And the fronts wear out BEFORE the rears. When the fronts are getting low I change all of the pads, front and rear. I could get more out of the rear as I have piles of them in boxes that have some life left. But not the fronts, they are all killed. I usually get about 5 days or 20 sessions out of the fronts before they are gone.

I have 2 sets of BBS 18" rims and run Hoosier R6s (usually 12-18 heat cycles before I switch them). My car has 12k miles on it. Over 9k is track miles. Original rotors still holding up fine. But lots of pads. Lots of tires and lots of pads.

FYI - I am not a very hard/late brake guy. I am more earlier/easier braking and then early back on the gas HARD. For reference here are my typical lap times - SP 1:19ish, VIR 2:05ish, WG 2:06ish (these are "ish" because I do not have onboard data, I am getting these times from a '10 GT3RS I follow, he has the data. And if he is reading this, please feel free to edit/correct me if I am off).

Yorkshireman

Woo hoo. Objective and real world opinions on gen 2 PCCBs at last from someone that uses them at the track. You are way ahead of me in terms of PCCB track days. Please post updates as you do more track days, I'd like to know how long the rotors hold up.

Thanks.

TB993tt

Any of you guys like to comment on the LF3 pads from endless (see link)

http://www.endless-brake.info/ceramic-compounds

997gt3north

I must be one of the few people that love the P50 greens. Impossible to fade, take 1 lap to warm up like any true race pad, last forever (15 events), I don't find they screech around the neighborhood that badly and you are still going to be able to get 50+ events on the rotors.

Anyone that says P50s destroy ceramic rotors in a few sessions must be driving completely out of control with SC/TC intervening constantly. I can't have the only set of ceramics that last more than a few days.

If a P45 hybrid pad comes along then I would most likely switch to that for better streetabilty but to me P50s are amazing pads.

Paul

GT3DE

Pccb rotor update. Did a de at SP last Friday. Noticed right rear grabbing a little weird at end of long straight going into t1, 150+mph. FYI - LR rotor is new in September from hub failure repair. Anyway, felt like rr was locking up for a quick moment then releasing, then lockup again. So I took wheel off and saw rr rotor is about shot. Flaking, rough spots, etc. Looked at fronts, a little better, but not much. Car has 12k miles, more than 9k on track.

FYI, I do not use any of the electronic help. I hit all the buttons across the bottom of the center console which sets the suspension stiffer, opens the exhaust and last 2 cancel the computer traction assistance. So no additional computer breaking going on.

Btw- wtb full set pccb rotor lightly used from 2010 or 2011 gt3 or gt3rs. ASAP!!!

997gt3north

Since your car seems to be a very focused DE car, you really should consider Iron replacements.

Also, since it is likely going to be very difficult to source 1 new/used rotor, you may want to buy a new one to go with your other newer rear and then box them both and switch to one of the many Iron solutions. Or, since time is on your side, box the 1 newer one now and search over time for a rear used replacement from a crashed car etc.

Also, given the stated times you are posting at VIR and WG and running Hoosiers, and while you state you aren't hard on your brakes, the times = speed = heat in the rotors and probably Irons would be a good financial solution - unless 15k rotor budget is an ok yearly expense for you given the DE miles you are doing.

My person opinion is that Ceramics are good for about 50 DE days +/- some error amount for all the obvious factors. If you do 200 miles at a DE - that's about 10,000miles and that is where you said you are close to.