drdrank

What happens when a PP goes? Car undrivable i assume?

Seems like there is at least some warning. I drive my car to the track, so would have a major issue if this goes at the track.

Side note, is there a ton of stuff you guys do in Florida in the winter months? Deciding if it makes any sense at all to ship the car to FL or Cali to drive in the "off season"

mooty

hoosier slick is faster than yoki slicky and last longer.
400/set more than R6

997gt3north

I wouldn't worry about this - I really just posted this information as a response to Farz original thread as an information post to give him something to consider as he may be in need of new clutch parts soon and having some background information when he might about to be going shopping is a good thing.

Manual car's have clutches - these are wear items - especially on car's that attend DEs - you have to expect to replace certain parts over time. Usually the part that wears is the friction disk - think piece of 2 sided sand paper that sits between the flywheel and the Pressure Plate - Symptoms is car's rpms rising and car not going. When this happens, you can replace everything FW, FD, PP - or when you actually get in there an look at things, you probably only need to do the FD and the PP - the slipping is generally a result of the FD getting worn and the PP getting tired - the FW may have FD material burnt onto it but can easily be machined off if you have a Single Mass Flywheel.

The incidents that I believe have caused the part to be superceded are not simple wear and tear miles but more of oh **** moments that have put momentarily very high forces on the PP and have resulted in the PP breaking. When a PP breaks - it can break a little bit or it can explode into a few pieces. In either of these situations, pretend you are on fire and Stop, Drop and Roll. Stop the car immediately, Drop the keys so you wont restart it and Roll it onto a Flatbed (see a previous post of mine on how to easily get a gt3 up a flatbed. The reason you want to do this is at this moment after something has happened you probably aren't sure what you have done, (it could be really bad), so just shut the car off. Even if it is just a wee break, there is no point doing damage to your bell housing when parts are rattling around in there and further risk the entire PP coming apart.

So, people buy these cars to take them to the track - otherwise you would have bought a Turbo. At the track, your car is seeing 8500rpms all day long. Porsche knows this and designs a PP to handle this. Life doesn't go as expected all the time and people who DE aren't professional drivers - and even if they were **** still happens. Porsche knows this so from an engineering perspective, every part is over designed to some degree. My guess on the 3.8 PP is that they didn't get the over engineering amount as high as they wanted and they don't like fixing things under warranty so they are mandating the PP in their inventory that is higher up the list in terms of handling stuff that happens on the track.

If your car is working just drive it - if you feel there is something wrong bring it in - if you do something wrong on the track and you hear rattling in your bell housing, stop in car, get it fixed and then return to the track and have fun. If you need a new PP and you DE a lot, phone around and see what your alternatives are.

Izzone

There is tons of Sebring events

Ship your car to orbit racing, they do arrive and drive

fc-racer

Paul, thanks for the excellent insight. Whenever you post, it's always so well researched, detailed, definitive and current. I really appreciate the time you take to make these posts; I think we should take a collection of your posts, alongside the other KAP (kick-*** posters) like Mikyu and make an FAQ.

drdrank

Thanks! Very helpful

sharkster

Happens way too much;( In fact it's been happening since 07... there's a couple of good upgrade choices to take you from 2 to 3 straps to help with gearing down with these LWF's... The only draw back is a slightly increased pedal pressure if you will.

fc-racer

A quick update. I took the car into the shop and had them bleed the brakes and the clutch system. No air came out of the clutch hydraulics, but the engagement point seems more predictable. It still engages high, but it's less of an on/off switch. I can't say with certainty that the bleeding "solved" the issue because our temps and weather have been changing dramatically in the past two weeks so it could be something as simple as humidity/temp, etc. or placebo effect.

I love how this car feels better after a good, hard track day. The brakes stop squeaking, the gearbox feels fluid, the clutch engages smooth, the interior even seems to have less rattles. Strange beasts these GT3's, and that's why I love them.

TRAKCAR

She loves a good spanking