How many km is OK when buying a GT3?
#1
How many km is OK when buying a GT3?
Hi - I am thinking pretty much of buiyng a GT3 Clubsport from 2007. One I am looking at has 62000 km (38000 miles) on the speedo and I wonder if that is a risk to buy?
If it is too much - then why, and what km should I go for? I want a Clubsport and will be entering the tracks quite often and more track than road.
Best regards
Knudsen
If it is too much - then why, and what km should I go for? I want a Clubsport and will be entering the tracks quite often and more track than road.
Best regards
Knudsen
#2
10k a year is not that high, clearly thecar has been used as a daily driver with that mileage.
since it is a clubsport one assumes it has been tracked?
has the car a full service history from a reputable vendor?
if you are serious about the car you should have a PPI done before making an offer, any legitimate seller should be happy to allow this.
in addition to the usual PPI items have the mechanic looks at wear locations such as brakes, rotors, LSD, wheels, carriers, shocks, and of course coolant lines etc.
tye car should be solid with this mileage and a good service history, the price should be commensurate with the local mileage and market.
since you dont mention either its difficult to comment further.
The miles are "high" for a weekend car but in line with a DD... hopefully its priced accordingly.
bottom line its good with FSH and a clean PPI.
since it is a clubsport one assumes it has been tracked?
has the car a full service history from a reputable vendor?
if you are serious about the car you should have a PPI done before making an offer, any legitimate seller should be happy to allow this.
in addition to the usual PPI items have the mechanic looks at wear locations such as brakes, rotors, LSD, wheels, carriers, shocks, and of course coolant lines etc.
tye car should be solid with this mileage and a good service history, the price should be commensurate with the local mileage and market.
since you dont mention either its difficult to comment further.
The miles are "high" for a weekend car but in line with a DD... hopefully its priced accordingly.
bottom line its good with FSH and a clean PPI.
#3
Hey Knudsen,
I would not worry about km, as long as you get a non-modified car with full service history. Mine has 86,000 km and I use it on track and every day on the road without any problem. It runs beautifully and is regularly the fastest 997.1 GT3 on track.
Let us know what you decide
I would not worry about km, as long as you get a non-modified car with full service history. Mine has 86,000 km and I use it on track and every day on the road without any problem. It runs beautifully and is regularly the fastest 997.1 GT3 on track.
Let us know what you decide
#4
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GT3 engine will run for a very very long time if taken care of.
62000kms is normal for a daily driver car. Almost better then a car sitting around with only 2000kms.
the best part about mileage is that you can get the car for a lower price, the bad part is when you sell it you take a lower price.
get the DME report and service records.
If it shows that the DME are low and the oil was changed on schedule then you should have nothing to worry about.
the only wear and tear item besides obvious LSD is the calliper rubbers which after heat break down with time and need replacement and the calliper mounting bolts which are threaded into aluminum and tend to lose thread after a lot of change overs.
this can all be fixed but something to consider.
Im at 44000kms and plan to got past 100000kms without any trouble.
62000kms is normal for a daily driver car. Almost better then a car sitting around with only 2000kms.
the best part about mileage is that you can get the car for a lower price, the bad part is when you sell it you take a lower price.
get the DME report and service records.
If it shows that the DME are low and the oil was changed on schedule then you should have nothing to worry about.
the only wear and tear item besides obvious LSD is the calliper rubbers which after heat break down with time and need replacement and the calliper mounting bolts which are threaded into aluminum and tend to lose thread after a lot of change overs.
this can all be fixed but something to consider.
Im at 44000kms and plan to got past 100000kms without any trouble.
#5
Thanks for giving me some good info and points guys. I really appreciate it.
The price is app. 15% lower than the price of a 20000-30000 km car.
I have not yet asked for further info about service book, history and other stuff, since I did not know if the km would be a show stopper.
I have other lower km GT3's in my sight and I am even looking at 996 GT3's and 996/997 RS's. Hard to make a discision on these 4 models and many people have many thoughts;-)
Best regards
Knudsen
The price is app. 15% lower than the price of a 20000-30000 km car.
I have not yet asked for further info about service book, history and other stuff, since I did not know if the km would be a show stopper.
I have other lower km GT3's in my sight and I am even looking at 996 GT3's and 996/997 RS's. Hard to make a discision on these 4 models and many people have many thoughts;-)
Best regards
Knudsen
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#9
Thanks for giving me some good info and points guys. I really appreciate it.
The price is app. 15% lower than the price of a 20000-30000 km car.
I have not yet asked for further info about service book, history and other stuff, since I did not know if the km would be a show stopper.
I have other lower km GT3's in my sight and I am even looking at 996 GT3's and 996/997 RS's. Hard to make a discision on these 4 models and many people have many thoughts;-)
Best regards
Knudsen
The price is app. 15% lower than the price of a 20000-30000 km car.
I have not yet asked for further info about service book, history and other stuff, since I did not know if the km would be a show stopper.
I have other lower km GT3's in my sight and I am even looking at 996 GT3's and 996/997 RS's. Hard to make a discision on these 4 models and many people have many thoughts;-)
Best regards
Knudsen
whatever you get, you will not be dissapointed as long as you do the proper due diligence on the maintainence history, PPI and DME readouts etc ...
#10
I don't think mileage is that important (within reason), 10-12,000km/year is ok. What you want to look at, is the history of the car: 3000km track useage a year is going to soften the car more than 10,000km road use. At the end of the day two things are certain: if you can afford it get the newest car possible, and (at least for me) an RS is a little more special...
#12
Hey Larry and RAPID.
Well the car will be a track car with DD when I simply want to drive that car.....
About which one to buy, I am also thinking about which will be the best investment and the most easy to sell without too much loss - and as you know there is a big difference on how many was produced - making maybe the 996RS the best investment or the 997RS in a color seldomly seen.
In my country a 996RS goes for the same as a 997CS and the 997RS for the same price as a 2010CS. The last two app. 25% higher price than the first two.
What would you go for?
Thank you for your opinions guys!!!!!
Knudsen
Well the car will be a track car with DD when I simply want to drive that car.....
About which one to buy, I am also thinking about which will be the best investment and the most easy to sell without too much loss - and as you know there is a big difference on how many was produced - making maybe the 996RS the best investment or the 997RS in a color seldomly seen.
In my country a 996RS goes for the same as a 997CS and the 997RS for the same price as a 2010CS. The last two app. 25% higher price than the first two.
What would you go for?
Thank you for your opinions guys!!!!!
Knudsen
#13
If you are really thinking investment, then go for the 996RS, it has probably depreciated as much as it will, and is a fantastic track car as well (although not as easy for novices as a 997). 997RS (I suppose you mean type I) may still depreciate a little, and rare colors are a bit of a gamble...you need to find the buyer who is prepared to pay more for it.
#14
I agree with RAPID, the 996RS is probably the one that will depreciate the least at this point, a 997.1 still has some downside, and even more the .2's ...
having said that, its very subjective, the 996's are much sharper 'tools' than the 997's ... the latter are easier to drive faster, and wont 'cut' you so bad if you are a bit clumsy... the .1s are great cars although not as special/differentiated as the .2 RSes ...
I think the only way to pick one is to drive a couple of likely candidates ...
the bottom line is that regardless of what you buy you will not be dissapointed in the experience!
having said that, its very subjective, the 996's are much sharper 'tools' than the 997's ... the latter are easier to drive faster, and wont 'cut' you so bad if you are a bit clumsy... the .1s are great cars although not as special/differentiated as the .2 RSes ...
I think the only way to pick one is to drive a couple of likely candidates ...
the bottom line is that regardless of what you buy you will not be dissapointed in the experience!
#15
and on the color thing, I think silver and black .1 RSes are pretty rare ... the majority were either orange or green ... and they all sold out ... so I dont think resale of such cars would be a problem later