1st trackday w/new GT3 -Q's on break-in...
04-20-2011, 04:09 PM
#2
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I followed the rules pretty closely. I did go up to 6000 rpm a couple of times in the first 1000 miles, but waited until after 1500 (and an oil change) to hit redline. I think it's important not to sit at one rpm for too long too, so I made sure I shifted between gears on the freeway while maintaining a speed.
My advice, be good to your engine early on and it will be good to you for a long time. Focus on braking (since we have amazing brakes) and turning. If you're going to be at the track a lot and you haven't already, go get a professional alignment for the track.
My advice, be good to your engine early on and it will be good to you for a long time. Focus on braking (since we have amazing brakes) and turning. If you're going to be at the track a lot and you haven't already, go get a professional alignment for the track.
04-20-2011, 04:43 PM
#5
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I took my '11 RS to the track at aprox. 500miles, and took it easy. Let it rev to 7K but not above (maybe once or twice) I am getting an oil change today at 930miles and declare "the end of brake in" period. Getting an alignment too. Will change transaxle fluid with the next oil change.
04-20-2011, 05:11 PM
#6
There are 2 entirely different schools of opinion / religion on this that have been debated in many threads and some middle ground between the two:
1) Drive it like you Stole it School (bring it to the race track on the first day and red line it in every gear every time)
2) Follow the owners manual
3) Somewhere between #1 and #2
Google the topic and much can be found on this topic.
I did the:
- Get the car home and figure out where everything is so you don't kill yourself
- Drive the car for 2 nights (20 minutes or so) going up and down every gear (lets say up to 6000 rpm)
- day 3, find good location, and when the oil is warm, do repeated runs to redline in 2nd and 3rd (4th if possible) - maybe 10 times in total - then let car properly cool down
- change oil
- bring it to the track
The above procedure was basically what I got after much research on the topic and taking the advice of the head Porsche mechanic at the dealership - he wanted me to redline it on Day 1 after the engine was warm, repeat for 5 days, then change oil - then change oil every 2000miles for the first 10,000 miles.
Others will swear that the above is entirely incorrect.
1) Drive it like you Stole it School (bring it to the race track on the first day and red line it in every gear every time)
2) Follow the owners manual
3) Somewhere between #1 and #2
Google the topic and much can be found on this topic.
I did the:
- Get the car home and figure out where everything is so you don't kill yourself
- Drive the car for 2 nights (20 minutes or so) going up and down every gear (lets say up to 6000 rpm)
- day 3, find good location, and when the oil is warm, do repeated runs to redline in 2nd and 3rd (4th if possible) - maybe 10 times in total - then let car properly cool down
- change oil
- bring it to the track
The above procedure was basically what I got after much research on the topic and taking the advice of the head Porsche mechanic at the dealership - he wanted me to redline it on Day 1 after the engine was warm, repeat for 5 days, then change oil - then change oil every 2000miles for the first 10,000 miles.
Others will swear that the above is entirely incorrect.
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04-20-2011, 09:33 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
What search? 'Tis such a lively topic that none of the previous posts can be relevant (altho I specifically remember savyboy's "field of race engine dynos")... come on we need this 55th round of debate!
Personally I subscribe to 997GT3North's theory. Run it reasonably, but run it hard. Babying the engine for thousands of "break-in" miles accomplishes nothing other than increasing your carbon footprint in a manner devoid of any driving pleasure
Personally I subscribe to 997GT3North's theory. Run it reasonably, but run it hard. Babying the engine for thousands of "break-in" miles accomplishes nothing other than increasing your carbon footprint in a manner devoid of any driving pleasure
04-21-2011, 01:08 AM
#11
I kept my RS under 4500 RPM for the first 500 miles (I probably hit 6000 RPM two or three times when passing, without noticing). After 500 miles I was zinging it up to 6-7k. At about 700 miles I was driving it as hard as I wanted, and at 900 miles it was at the track. At the track I was shifting at about 8k and shifting a little more slowly than I normally would, but for the most part I was driving it hard. Next track session next weekend I'll be flogging it full bore.
04-22-2011, 02:26 AM
#12
<the> outside two sections on the Cups in the rear show a lot of wear whereas the middle "no-tread" section and and the one next to it toward the inside looks like it's never been driven on it. The far inside looks worn some. I thought this was kind of odd. I started with my cold tire pressure at 28/30 f/r and it got up to 33/36 (was relatively cool today -60F or so). I thought that was the right kind of pressure? And I'm wearing the Michelin Man's Head on the sidewall off which one GT3 guy at the track said was the right way to do it.
Is my wear pattern normal? Or is my alignment off? Tx, Horstair.
Is my wear pattern normal? Or is my alignment off? Tx, Horstair.
It's well worth reading the MPSC aka Sport Cup threads here to make informed decisions on what kind of driving you'll do and the tire/suspension/alignment/pressures that will work based on your actual lap times at one or more of LS/SP/TH. In round figures, the "threshold" for street tires at these three tracks is about 1:40, 1:50 and 2:00 ... if you're circulating Sears under 1:50 on street tires in a GT3, you will benefit from improved alignment settings, otherwise, just get the car balanced and aligned according to the camber necessary to compensate for the wear you're seeing and focus on driver skills. And focus the track day budget on safety gear (roll bar, harness, spine collar, fireproof clothing layer) and brakes and tires ... : )
