Does it really take 2 people to change a wheel
03-09-2011, 06:02 PM
#1
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Does it really take 2 people to change a wheel
im one who is not a big DIY, like mooty or savy but i do like changing my wheels and the occasional brake pad. Does it really take 2 people to change these center lock wheels? I have my torque wrench but dont have the breaker bar. is that needed? i know its been discussed somewhat but trying to get some clarification on everything
03-09-2011, 06:13 PM
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No, I sent you the pic of that brake pedal holder thing.
Just shove it in between the brake pedal and seat if you really want to torque them in the air as adviced.
I do it just to make sure, but I can't imagine that if the car is on the ground after "clicking" the nut on and than apply 600Nm it is coming loose, plus if the locking thingy is flush with outside is should be fine anyway.
Don't forget to check on the 2 little screws in the brake rotor, in case they back out the torque reading might be off.
Just shove it in between the brake pedal and seat if you really want to torque them in the air as adviced.
I do it just to make sure, but I can't imagine that if the car is on the ground after "clicking" the nut on and than apply 600Nm it is coming loose, plus if the locking thingy is flush with outside is should be fine anyway.
Don't forget to check on the 2 little screws in the brake rotor, in case they back out the torque reading might be off.
03-09-2011, 06:13 PM
#3
It is strictly a one person job, with the right tools. Yes you need a breaker bar and it helps to have a brake depressing tool to keep the front wheels from rotating, although you can wedge a 2x4 on the brake pedal with a towel against the seat as I have seen some do. Its a piece of cake really and I actually prefer the C/L's now that I have the tools.
03-09-2011, 06:16 PM
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No, I sent you the pic of that brake pedal holder thing.
Just shove it in between the brake pedal and seat if you really want to torque them in the air as adviced.
I do it just to make sure, but I can't imagine that if the car is on the ground after "clicking" the nut on and than apply 600Nm it is coming loose, plus if the locking thingy is flush with outside is should be fine anyway.
Don't forget to check on the 2 little screws in the brake rotor, in case they back out the torque reading might be off.
Just shove it in between the brake pedal and seat if you really want to torque them in the air as adviced.
I do it just to make sure, but I can't imagine that if the car is on the ground after "clicking" the nut on and than apply 600Nm it is coming loose, plus if the locking thingy is flush with outside is should be fine anyway.
Don't forget to check on the 2 little screws in the brake rotor, in case they back out the torque reading might be off.
03-09-2011, 06:22 PM
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Due to the high torque specs required for CLs, and even higher for track use, applying the proper torque will easily overcome even the rear's parking brakes. A helper is needed to step on the brakes when torquing or breaking the CL. There's several ways to do this yourself:
1) Buy or make a brake pedal depressor. They have ones that can be wedged against the seat frame or steering wheel (I would advise against the latter). This is the solution I use.
2) Get some wheel chocks. With the wheel/tire just barely clearing the ground, you can wedge a wheel chock on the right or left side of wheel depending on whether you're torquing or breaking the CL. This effectively wedges the chock against the ground and the tire which keeps the wheel from rotating when you torque or break.
3) Lower the car so that the tire comes in contact against the ground just enough to prevent rotation while you torque or break. This method works but not adviseable because the force of the ground against the wheel may give very inaccurate torquing. It may be fine for breaking the CL, but probably not a good idea for setting torque.
1) Buy or make a brake pedal depressor. They have ones that can be wedged against the seat frame or steering wheel (I would advise against the latter). This is the solution I use.
2) Get some wheel chocks. With the wheel/tire just barely clearing the ground, you can wedge a wheel chock on the right or left side of wheel depending on whether you're torquing or breaking the CL. This effectively wedges the chock against the ground and the tire which keeps the wheel from rotating when you torque or break.
3) Lower the car so that the tire comes in contact against the ground just enough to prevent rotation while you torque or break. This method works but not adviseable because the force of the ground against the wheel may give very inaccurate torquing. It may be fine for breaking the CL, but probably not a good idea for setting torque.
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03-09-2011, 06:29 PM
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03-09-2011, 07:12 PM
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03-09-2011, 08:50 PM
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Due to the high torque specs required for CLs, and even higher for track use, applying the proper torque will easily overcome even the rear's parking brakes. A helper is needed to step on the brakes when torquing or breaking the CL. There's several ways to do this yourself:
1) Buy or make a brake pedal depressor. They have ones that can be wedged against the seat frame or steering wheel (I would advise against the latter). This is the solution I use.
2) Get some wheel chocks. With the wheel/tire just barely clearing the ground, you can wedge a wheel chock on the right or left side of wheel depending on whether you're torquing or breaking the CL. This effectively wedges the chock against the ground and the tire which keeps the wheel from rotating when you torque or break.
3) Lower the car so that the tire comes in contact against the ground just enough to prevent rotation while you torque or break. This method works but not adviseable because the force of the ground against the wheel may give very inaccurate torquing. It may be fine for breaking the CL, but probably not a good idea for setting torque.
1) Buy or make a brake pedal depressor. They have ones that can be wedged against the seat frame or steering wheel (I would advise against the latter). This is the solution I use.
2) Get some wheel chocks. With the wheel/tire just barely clearing the ground, you can wedge a wheel chock on the right or left side of wheel depending on whether you're torquing or breaking the CL. This effectively wedges the chock against the ground and the tire which keeps the wheel from rotating when you torque or break.
3) Lower the car so that the tire comes in contact against the ground just enough to prevent rotation while you torque or break. This method works but not adviseable because the force of the ground against the wheel may give very inaccurate torquing. It may be fine for breaking the CL, but probably not a good idea for setting torque.
finally, clarity.
03-10-2011, 12:52 AM
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I've had mixed results with my brake pedal depressor. Last time I had the front wheels off, I wasn't able to get the 2nd wheel torqued properly, as it kept spinning despite several adjustments to the brake pedal depressor. I had to punt and lower the jack enough to get the wheel to touch the ground a bit.
One other caveat with the tools required for the CLs is the fact that they are unwieldy. So much so that I smacked my passenger mirror pretty good with my torque wrench (the massive 42" long one from Snap-On, but my breaker bar is even longer). I tore the clear wrap and chipped the paint. You can lock your mirrors into place tight against the car, but even so, it's a crap shoot. You need to be very careful with such long handles!
One other caveat with the tools required for the CLs is the fact that they are unwieldy. So much so that I smacked my passenger mirror pretty good with my torque wrench (the massive 42" long one from Snap-On, but my breaker bar is even longer). I tore the clear wrap and chipped the paint. You can lock your mirrors into place tight against the car, but even so, it's a crap shoot. You need to be very careful with such long handles!